Cubes

There is a cold idle valve thingo.. The spring sometimes flicks off. Do a search.

Plastic is fine.. No metal.

Use 4 big cable ties to attach the PFC... Be sure the plug is straight as you tighten up the bolt.

Hey Maxx, That pic was taken by me, see Liam's (big dog) tennis ball in the background off to the right? It cost me $280 inc postage. Apparently Coventry's and any one who deals with bosch can get them in for roughly the same price.

You haven't done enough research then. Check out discopotato's posts. The GT30R (GT3076R) is a much better choice.

I was young at the time but I do remember the mechanic grabbed a crow bar and attempted to move the harmonic balancer away from the motor towards the radiator. If stuffed a little pressure you will see the harmonic balancer move away from the motor.. hence excessive crank end float, the harmonic balancer should not be able to be moved back and forth.

I've done it... And you are right.. around 3days and it was left on high.

If the motor has excessive crank end float its a full rebuild.. Cheaper to drop another s/h motor in to it. It may not be that.. just something to definitely check as belts slipping off is a symptom.

Being able to adjust boost on the fly is a novelty. The RB20DET isn't exactly a boost monster where a slight flick of the accelerator instantly see's all its boost. Even with the rb30det and a small motor its easy to regulate the amount of boost I make.

1000hp+ is too much for a run of the mill race car. reliability.. lol what reliability. 1000hp+ is really only good for a blat down the 1/4 a few times then pull it down again for a rebuild.

Have you had the crank end float looked at? Its common if you have excessive crank endfloat to throw belts the way you are. My old man owned an EA falcon that did the same, as did a mate of mine who owned an ED falcon. Motor still appeared to run fine, no knocks etc.. It did require a rebuild before anything major occured.

I've just had a thought... hehehe You could do this before or after you decide to play with the rb25 turbine housing in an attempt to improve spool. You could post the turbo over to me.. I throw it on the rb30det, give it a quick wot tune that will cost me $100. Rip it off and post it back. I send you little video of its response, power made, ignition and fuel maps, datalogit logs the whole lot. You will then know if its worth the hassle of the rb30det and so will I.

My main point was the lower comp ratio the motor (rb30det) will have is much better suited to the 95ron fuel. BUT.. The smaller turbine housing machine up is the cheapest option. If it doesn't work well.... RB30DET, vg30 turbine back on and enjoy.

Whats the std actuators pressure?

My suggestion..... Don't waste money on fitting other turbo's etc just yet. Pick up a running with good compression RB30e, don't rebuild it but simply drop your head on it. The comp ratio will drop to around 8.2-8.3:1 which will help with the 95ron fuel you are running. See how the turbo goes then. Spool should drop 600-700rpm or so. Thats if you can get away with doing the labour your self. Sell off your good condition rb25det bottom end and you should break even. Sky30 has done this... Picked up a good condition 270,000km RB30E for $50, dropped it in his R32 with an rb25 head, pushed some boost in to it via his rb20t high flow turbo and made 240rwkw, drove it like that for 1 year, pulled the turbo off dropped on a gt35r with a .82 machined up diesel internal gate housing, dialed in 19psi and made 312rwkw which has since been running for another year. In total he's racked up 40,000km's, he only rev's it to ~6500rpm.

What sized tank do the 33's have? I was under the impression it was the same as the R32's.. Being ~60litres. The redlight comes on when there's ~10litres left in the tank, I fill up at this point and can squeeze 50-53 litres in depending how long I've driven on the redlight.

I've always wondered why they GTR's need to run an elec bleed system when they don't have a 2 stage boost like the R33's do. Whats the 32 GTR's base boost pressure if you were to bypass the solanoid and run it straight off the actuator?

BBGTR, The RB20DET's run a basic wastegate setup, so an boost controller of some time is required. Buy the PFC then redrill the holes on the wastegate bracket so that it becomes adjustable. Not so much redrill but elong. If you have the cash go the pfc boost controller from nengun. They are fairly cheap considering its a self learning boost controller. Unlike the Archaic adjust a duty cycle and gain type ebc. The self learning ebc's constantly adjust duty cycle to obtain the target boost pressure.

Get it on the dyno with some one who is willing to spend some time investigating cruise, light load and moderate afr's.

Mine is very quiet on idle and light throttle. The car next to me with the window up my car cannot be heard. Give it a boot full and you hear a roar. BUT its still too loud for me, I want as quiet as I can get it without causing too much of a restriction for up to 280rwkw. Mild and s/steel also have a slightly different sound. S/steel drones a little more, mild tends to be just that little bit quieter.

I'm having the center resonator removed and a s/steel muffler slapped in its place, $250 D&T want. Should bring it down quite nicely. Since the slightly larger turbo went on its fairly loud, not too lound but too loud for my liking. I prefer a quiet car where I can give it stick and ppls won't instantly look over.

The ebay link and the Manwhore link. They are the same dump. 2.5" The batmbl dumps are good, basically the same as the ces. But still for $130 thats stuff all.

My Rb20DET running 1 bar making 164rwkw used to get 470km's around town not babying it, driving it hard or soft didn't appear to make much difference to fuel consumption. Average was 470km's. On the open road I once saw 600km's, I was booting it quite a bit so it 'may' have got better if I drove it off boost. The RB30DET which has its boost in by 2000rpm see's ~430km's to a tank using the stock pfc base map its making some where around 200rwkw. Open road.. Unsure haven't taken it for an open road drive. I am dropping a 3.9:1 diff ratio in to it so this will definitely see an improvement in fuel consumption. Especially on the open road. The R32 @ 100km/h revs at 2782rpm. The tacho and speedo are slightly out. This is going by the pfc h/c. A 3.9:1 will see 2487rpm @ 100km/h.

Mine is setup so that it uses the stock piping route. The hot air comes out of the turbo down in to the front bumper via the stock piping route, it then runs below and slightly behind the FMIC which then does 2 90 degree bends in to the FMIC (drivers side), the tank has the inlet positioned in the center of the core. The cool air then travels out of the fmic via a very short route back in to the stock piping and thats it Touching the turbo out piping, its damn hot almost too hot to touch. :S The turbo is pushed to its limits BUT the fmic is definitely doing its job as you can feel the inlet side tank being hot then over the core it gradually becomes cold to touch, the outlet tank and piping is cold, apart from the engine cross over pipe obviously. Both methods have exactly the same amount of 90 degree bends so they should flow exactly the same, the across the engine bay does have a slightly shorter turbo outlet distance. Hope that makes sense.. I was up at 3am this morning. :S

RB30-Power, Those cheap copy's are only 2.5" Its a pitty they didn't flare it out to 3" then join the wastegate in.