Cubes

Wouldn't worry about it as long as its not vibrating the floor pan like mine.. It pissed me off like you wouldn't believe. Mines been like it for 3.5years and ~100,000km's.

Best bet is to head over to calaisturbo.com They know the ins and outs of which diff fits what. I do know a friend of mine is going to fit up a 3.9 or 3.7:1 diff ratio in to his VLT open wheeler depending on availability. He prefers the 3.7:1 but 'may' end up going the 3.9:1.

The turbo's providing they are in good nick are actually not that much heavier on fuel. Mine used to see 470km/s per tank and that was always giving it stick, i never used to limp it around off boost, always up on boost in second gear out of corners, off the lights first was off boost, click second up on boost and accelerate to the speed limit. The RB30DET is now seeing 400-430km's per tank on the pfc base map, the base map runs a little rich once out of closed loop, this can be seen by taking off lightly, a little stream of black smoke trickles from the exhaust. Give a turbo vs a cammed up N/A the turbo will be better on fuel.

lol.. They don't 'wear' out over time if you think this is the case then.... If a ring land cracks the tune does not suit the setup. Its as simple as that... duh.. If you've fiddled and tried to push more boost in to it then its because the tune isn't suited. I would hope you haven't done this as when the tuned they are basically tuned near the edge.

Stiffer suspension ALWAYS causes rattles. My then 3yr old VS V8 Commodore was perfectly silent, dropped it with a Whiteline kit and within 6 months it was starting to rattle around the dash and door trim. My little R32 is now 13-14yrs old, still the stock sloppy jaloppy suspension and ZERO rattles.

Cracked ring land = bad tune.. Don't go back to that tuner, unless it was a failed fuel pump.

I paid $1600 for mine. :S Mild steel was quite a bit cheaper. There were other exhaust shops and second hand jap exhausts. The problem was I didn't like what every one else was offering.. Milo-Tins.

I have a 910 external. Mine used to be so noisy it would vibrate the floor pan even though it was rubber mounted. Upon feeling the out fuel hose it was vibrating so much it made my hand feel slightly numb. I ran a dedicated feed from the battery via a relay to the pump. It is still noisy but can no longer be felt or heard inside the car.

Sorry I meant CAS ign. timing, the problem is that can't be checked until the motor is running also. If its kicking back then its way way too advanced as previously mentioned.

Double check everything.... Ensure the cam timing is correct, ignition timing is correct (no guesses and if it double pulses and reads funny double loop the wire over and it should read right), double check fuel and spark. Mine has lifters that had been bled, upon starting the motor it idled fine but ticked for quite a while until it got some rev's in to it then it was nice and quiet.. So no it won't be the hydraulic followers. Its probably something silly, if its spinning over quick has it got spark plugs in it?

I had D&T do my exhaust, full s/steel turbo back with a 3" s/steel tip, no milo tin style. Sleepy looking. BUT.. They stuffed my dump pipe, the bloke who made it had NFI, he didn't stretch the pipe over the flange correctly resulting in a 10-15mm V type rise smack in front of the compressor wheel, where as it should be flat then follow the dump pipe down smoothly.. If that makes sense. I'm taking my car back to them soon to have a s/steel center muffler fitted and the resonator removed, help quieten it down a little. I'll also get them to do a back to back dyno run to see what sort of power drop there is. I doubt there would be much as its a nicely made 3" straight through muffler.

Are you pulling down the whole motor to fit a full crank oil pump drive gear? If not and you are simply fitting up a N1 pump or similiar then its pointless. The ONLY mod you have listed that will improve performance is the PFC.

There's no need for a dot to do figures.. Line it all up at TDC then tweak the cam belt and its tension. Simple as that. Remember everyones tension location will be ever so slightly different not to mention the tension they place on it and if they have used two tensioners in stead of just one, so don't use the teeth counting method, it sucks.

My method of generating positive pressure (hehe) is driving really really fast with a 500mm dia snorkle in front of the radiator that tapers down at a 12.5degree angle to 80mm dia, this then feeds in to the afm (mesh removed to reduce pressure drop) then directly in to the cross over pipe.

sky30 has addressed this issue. lol. $50 your engine cost.. thats insane. Such a pitty I didn't go that route.

A little off topic.. Disco here's the dyno run I did with it wired open. Basically starts making some boost straight away. Note the R&R using the stock ecu with the rb30det. I also have an afr print out.

Awesome... 10psi for any reason? Not much more left in the std injectors or she was pinging? Good luck with the burnouts... you'll have to work hard your builder is definitely awesome. Have a good new year.

The diff ratio of the vl cancels out the fact that the rb20det rev's higher. Check out this dyno comparison from a recent dyno day, all done in 4th gear. Natho has a VLT RB30ET with only a 2.5" exhaust, 13-14psi on the stock turbo, and small AVO fmic. He made 187rwkw. Pretty damn good effort. Chris32 runs a 3.5" exhaust, PFC, HKS 2510 & FMIC. Ronin runs an Rb20DET, exhaust, fmic, rb25 turbo at 14psi and a remapped ecu. 190rwkw. Oosh runs a fairly stock R32, from memory only an exhaust and a little boost. As you can see the R32's do have the edge with regards to top end and they also have roughly the same bottom end torque at the rear wheels low in the rpm due to the R32's running a 4.363:1 diff ratio. Then there's my RB30DET that hardly rev's due to the stock log manifold, stock cams and small turbo. Conclusion... I still think the VLT will have the edge due to having less lag and a little more mid range even though the diff ratio is working against it. It also has the advantage of the solid rear axle that holds all of the tyre on the road unlike the IRS that squats and runs on the inside of the tyre. Providing the skyline has its camber setup well without stiff suspension it should be ok. BUT.. come highspeed, who knows. I don't know the drag coefficient of the R32's nor do I know them for the VLT's. Aero dynamics will be the determining factor. None the less it will be very close providing the R32 owner can drive decently and get past the lag without bogging it down or turning the tyres to smoke when launching. If the VLT gets the jump you won't be catching it. Chances are it will get the jump due to its solid axle that holds the tyres flat on the road not to forget it won't require as many rev's to get off the line as the turbo will spool quicker than the rb20det. Many VLT owners have dropped well matched T3/4's or BB turbo's on their VLT's and experienced no lag difference to the stock bush turbo. The stock turbo does lag a little compared to whats around these days.

Excellent tip Silver GTST.. I learnt the hard way the first time.. Second time came and I forgot... 3rd time got it right.

They may have stuffed the machining of the turbine housing?

That is definitely bad.. Imagine second :S Maybe its got a little to do with the tune?

He's running an aftermarket manifold, and propper garret turbine housing that hasn't been hacked away. Its been designed properly for the turbine wheel. Very much like R31 Nismoid with his GT30R .82. The .82 is larger than the vg30 yet its all in by 4000rpm. We also have to remember spool time is subjective depending on gear. By the sound of it your seeing and feeling a kick in the arse around 4500rpm, drop it in 5th at low rpm and load it up no doubt you will see that same boost/kick at possibly under 4000rpm. My stock rb20det turbo on the rb20det didn't hit 1bar until around 3500rpm under general street driven conditions. Some state bah load of shit somethings wrong with it then as I see 1bar at 2800rpm. The difference is I take my spool time readings from the usual gears that you use when giving it a bit of stick. That being second and third out of corners etc. Others take it from fourth gear, which I feel is a bad indication as it doesn't give the true on road experience. The same was with the vg30det turbo on my rb20det, I didn't see 13psi until around 4200rpm. Others state they see the same boost by 3500rpm, but what gear? Mine was in second, theirs most probably 4th. The rb20det and vg30det turbos on the 3ltr make very little difference to spool time, its always no matter what gear in between 2000-2500rpm.

I always find your post interesting disco. With regards to The rb20det turboon the rb30det made 6psi at 4000rpm that crept up to 6.5psi by 6500rpm with the wastegate wired all the way open. I will do the same test with the vg30det turbo just out of curiosity. One things for sure since I've fitted the vg30det turbo peak torque and around peak power I've been able to dial in another 6degree's ignition timing, just from less back pressure. Spool is the same when loaded up on the dyno the only real difference is the turbo feels a little more lazy as in it requires that little bit more throttle to get partial boost, it doesn't make boost as easy. BUT, it appears the top end now pulls well to 5800rpm where it wants a gear change, prior with the rb20t turbo it required a gear change at 5000rpm, no later.

If your hitting 110+ degree oil temps on the street then you should look at fitting an oil cooler, no if's no buts. Apparently at 115degree's the high oil temps begin to break down the petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish and increases wear.

Mafia, try not to get your heart set on it being all in by 3200rpm because it won't. You are only going to see an improvement by ~500rpm.