Cubes

Fatz, hows the rb30det run with the td06-20g and what size exhaust housing is it running? Care to share or point me in the direction of the dyno sheet?

The recalc base from what I understands basically places a correction value on the base map so the values as all 1.000 on the map that is editable. As I said in the prior post, it does cause problems with the moderate and wot areas of the map as it too sets them to 1.000. It will require a little fiddling as I haven't fiddled with it. You may be able to simply set the moderate and wot load areas to 1, do the recalc base then set it back to what ever, in theory if the origional value is 1 it 'shouldn't touch it when it does the recalc.

Skyrine-Dave, I run the RB25DET oil pump. With a half arsed dodgy sender once its warm. Most of the time its fine, just plays up every so often. On cold oil pressure sits up over 8 which what looks like 9 if there was a 9 on the stock guage. Cruise at around 2000rpm see's ~4 on the stock guage but it quickly rises to 6 once rev's are around 3000-3500rpm, once 4000rpm approaches its hitting 7. In 5th at 100km/h it sits on ~5. Idle sits a needle width above the first line which is 2 I assume. When the sender is playing up it will sit as low as zero, rev's will see maybe 1 if your lucky. Turn the car off for a minute or two start it back up and oil pressure will be normal. Idling I can see quite a bit of oil on the cam lobes, give it a slight rev and oil flicks out all over the place, once in my eye as I was looking too close.. :S Going from a 10w60 Castrol oil to 5w30 oil oil pressure is only lower by 1 needle width, so hardly noticable. With the thinner oil the motor is much much quieter in the mornings. Some how it quietens the slight piston slap. The get the general feel that the 8100 Motul 5w40 oil is best suited to my motor. The motul over the castrol is makes the motor quieter. Its hard to compare with my old Rb20DET with the rb20det pump as the motor was old, on cold starts it would see oil pressure of around 6, idle was the same as the rb26det pump being a needle width over the 2. Once reving the most it would hit was ~5, never did it go as high as the rb25det pump once over 4000rpm.

gawdzilla, You are right... greater than one is richer, less than one is leaner. Unfortunately your going to need a wideband if you don't want to throw it on a dyno. Zero out the inj correction percentages and tune the map to achieve the afr's your after. A mate of mine runs 550cc's, from memory his inj map to achieve stoich is around the 60 somethigns. 66 seems to ring a bell. If having the inj map looking a little messy bothers you grab a datalogit and use the recalc base function after its tuned. This will set the entire map to 1.000 hence 14.7:1. The only real problem with doing this is it also sets the moderate and high load inj. values to 1.000. Obviously these map area's are not 14.7:1. I haven't used the recalc base function myself but do plan on doing so. From what I gather the only way to achieve a 'normal' looking afr map is to do a few little tests with pfc fuel values and the 'real' afr. Perform the adjustment calcs required on certian load points hit recalc then perform the calcs again. Hope that makes sense.. I've had to cut it short as I am heading out.

lol.... Nathan, U know you were trying to gloat.. Why bother dribbling on....

Ive come to the conclusion selecting a turbo sucks. And disco.... you make matters worse.. lol

I think it would lag too much for my liking. Im a big girl when it comes lag.....

Mine made 115rwkw dead stock. Bit of boost and exhaust, 152rwkw. FMIC and some more boost 164rwkw, thats where it ended on the stock turbo.

Evan R33, The CES dump pipe illustrates exactly what I was getting at. They have chose to join the wastegate in on a straight section of the exhaust, not a bend and especially not the outer of a bend. Exhaust gas has intertia just as everything else does, once its moving in a direction it doesn't like changing. By placing the merge on the outer of a bend your creating turbulence as the exhaust gas hits it and tries to turn a bend. Thats the way I visualise it with ZERO knowledge of flow dynamics, could some one possibly clear this up that does have knowledge of flow dynamics???

RS500, It does no doubt choke up top end but thats exactly why I think it would be awesome for the street. Lots of mid range torque, there's nothing worse on the street than having to ring the crap out of it to zip up the inside lane or to overtake. It really depends what your used to, I'm used to big lazy v8's and old lazy 6's with lots of low and mid range torque. Seeing how the GT2535 works on the rb25det's makes me think it would most definitely work very well with the rb24.

I weighed up remaping the stock ecu.. Morpowa wanted $800 for the initial remap then $500-$600 for any further tunes there after. I picked up my R32 PFC and Hand controller for $1100. Initial WOT tune was $100 as the base map had decent afr's, moderate load could be improved on but I wasn't going to waste another $200 on a complete tune as a larger turbo and injectors were soon to be fitted. In the long run the aftermarket ecu works out quite a bit cheaper, as its so much easier and quicker to tune. A full tune can be done for $300. 3hrs its quite a bit of time providing everything is running well. As Mark is trying to get out of it cheap I really think he would be better off selling what he has and putting it towards bolting up a VLT exh. manifold, second hand or possibly new t3/4 turbo, vlt injectors, fmic and exhaust on his R31's RB30E and have the stock ecu remapped. It will easily make a reliable 200rwkw. RB30ET's make awesome power, much better than many think, when paired up with the right gearing they are quite nice to drive and do go damn hard. Being in a R31 the gearing is 3.7:1 or 3.9:1 depending on if its a manual or auto. I've began to notice the RB30DET doesn't really work that well unless you run an aftermarket exhaust manifold. Peak power rpm suffers greatly, throw an aftermarket exh. manifold on it with a set of mild cams and they want to keep on pulling. As Dave found out by reving it just a little too hard. :S

Especially considering the motor is now making more power with basically the same airflow?!? Can only make so much power out of a given airflow.

I'm not going to mess around with the VG30 now that I've seen a few have issues making close to 270-280rwkw. GT30R + .87 HKS Turbine housing + HKS Cast manifold is my decision... for now lol. I'll be happy with 270-280rwkw, more than enough in rwd 1300kg 3ltr mid range monster. The GT35R would be nice BUT with the .82 it appears with cams its pretty much all in by 3500rpm. I really want it in by low 3000's. Even if the HKS turbine housing ends up costing as much as an external gate setup I don't care, I want it looking stockish with a decent manifold (HKS Cast) and without a manifold and external gate hanging out everywhere. Such a Pitty HKS didn't place the external gate flange underneath instead of on top.

Martin Donnan hasn't had much luck with the RX7 squirters and the stock ecu. Bad idle. Resistor pack isn't a hassle. R30 resistor pack ~6ohms, I've seen them as low as $5 (when they don't know what it is) and up to ~$30. Works perfectly. The RX7 injectors appear to work quite well with the PFC and the RB30DET. Nice smooth idle and nice starting also.

Looking at the design of the dump wher the wastegate joins...... I would have thought it would be best to place the joining in of the wastegate either on the straight or the inside of a bend to prevent turbulence. Definitely not on the outside as they seem to do??

Throw the car on the dyno for a power run. Should only cost $40.

race_snooze, The R32's don't have rich and retard issues when running the stock or even a mild hks 2530 turbo. The only time I experienced R&R was once the rb30det was dropped in, the stock ecu simply could not handle the extra airflow at low to mid rpm's, The fuel cut with the stock rb20det turbo and ecu was around 16-17psion a normal 20+ degree day . A cold morning or night it would cut in third at around 4500rpm on 14-15psi.

The GT2535 would probably quite a very nice street RB24DET.

Fast-GT-R, Nothing wrong with 14psi on the rb20det provinding its not running excessively rich/advanced or excessively lean/retarded. Mine ran 15psi for 100,000km's, in total 170,000km's. The turbo then ran 12psi for another 20,000km's where I pulled it off, upon inspection the turbo is still perfect, its a very tight turbo, well within specs. High egt's is what kills the ceramic turbine wheel.

Fast-GT-R, Nothing wrong with 14psi on the rb20det provinding its not running excessively rich/advanced or excessively lean/retarded. Mine ran

Ahh you did indeed.. Sorry buddy. It was a long day at work. lol.

Its easy pezy japanezy...

Staunch be carefull you don't launch your motor. One is a very very silly person if they simply wind up boost without throwing it on a dyno. If you have a std fuel pump, chances are its 10yrs+ and its getting a little lazy, as a result you hear rattling.. or whats known as detonation. Detonation will kill ring lands damn quick. Don't be hearing that noise otherwise the next time you do you may be waking in the morning to see a slight trickle of smoke from the exhaust, it will from then on get very bad very quickly.

Never raise boost without a dyno, especially if you haven't replaced the fuel pump with a new item. Its just silly. You really dont want a hole in a piston.

Its hard to tell if the split dump is really better in this case as the usual 3" open mouth dump wasn't tested, just the stock item. On another note... Thats quite a nice looking little R33 you have there QRI05E. Nothing more do I like than the smooth lines of the R33 with a nice set of wheels. Body kits ruin it in my opinion. Now do one more test. Remove the 2 stage boost and still run the stock higher level boost just not the 2stage that steps up. And post another dyno graph. It would be interesting to see how much more of a difference the removal of the 2 stage boost makes. Then you have a mild mod power guide.