Cubes

Platinum, We will have to take eath other for a spin with once yours is in and running. I'm keen to see the difference a higher diff ratio makes, I'm sure your also keen to see how mine drives with the 4.363:1, by the time you see it she will most probably have a 4.11 GTR mech shimmed center. The VL being roughly the same weight as the R32 and the gearbox's having very similar ratio's it should be quite a decent comparison.

2BNVS, Can you post a few close ups of the manifold.. It looks awesome.

Half on the temp guage is fairly miss-leading. Any one with a PFC will know that half is from ~72degree's right up until a shade over 100degree's. Only once over 100degree's will it start creeping up.

Reset does jack.... I had mine on the dyno ~3years ago, did a few little tests - pod vs stock airbox, ecu reset. All showed a zero increase in power anywhere in the rpm.

Doesnt get going until 4500rpm on a rb25det. Looks interesting, I wonder how it really flows :S http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release103105.htm

Where's the carby to spray it down? I've had a look can't seem to find it... lol

Drop it in the rolla. Tensioner bolting surface looks as it will do the trick rather well.. <picture saved>

You need to be reg'd as a trader I would assume.

When you initially started it and had issues with it being rich. Did you try setting the airflow percentages to 100%. Dialing in 370/550 = 68% (round up) Then selecting VH41. Paul, I think you will achieve a safer more consistent tune if you were to set the 50degree high load correction factor to 0. Depends how well it drives when cold with the setting. I'm using the R34 correction factor and as it turns out its basically running 0 at 50degree's. It actually made the car feel much nicer to drive, prior it would feel like it was cold (short choked free rev), now when cold it feels and rev's the same as if it were warm.

Paulr33, Where your airflow percentages all set to 100% (Settings 3 tab)? I had to set them all to 100% in order for everything to run nice. Also.. Bl4ck32's car had an initial issue running the VH41 AFM. Upon selecting the VH41 it simply would not run, pumping out shiet loads of fuel. It was tuned to suit using the std rb20/25 afm setting. Then we attached the datalogit to it, init the pfc and for some reason it began working fine on the vh41 setting. Definitely a little quirk there.

You did ok. <click> A friend has a digital sony camera, I was quite impressed with the like like saturation it has. Very nice balanced photo's. Don't buy HP their saturation is too high and tend to get a lot of noise in the back ground, i.e walls or darker areas.

I've ran Bendix Ultimates on mine a while back. Excellent pedal feel, lots and lots, I mean LOTS of brake dust. They also wore very quickly only lasting 20,000km's of street duties, no hard braking the occasional hills cruise (not thrash). I was honestly quite dissapointed how quickly they chewed out, especially considering I hadn't gave them a hard time. Other pads at the time were very expensive so I settled on a set of cheapo ($34 a pair) semi-metal Maxi-stops, lost the nice grabby pedal feel (allthough are still grabby) yet pull up very well, bugger all brake dust and last so so damn long. I've had them in the car for 3years and around 80,000km's.

Looks rather nice Andrew. cowie165, What colour is that? Not VHT Red? Looks quite nice, not a bright red but almost a dark Maroone type colour.

Your ign. map has been completely played with. Maybe running so much more ign. over std impacts negatively on fuel consumption. A couple of little strange things have been done with the fuel map. Generally one will zero out the injector correction and rework the fuel map. It appears he's left some injector correction in there but also played with the fuel map. There also appears to be rather large variations in fueling at some load points. Your not drawing much air either, it appears your using up to load points 16. Mine with a crapp vg30det turbo running 12-13psi hits load point 16-17 and at a guess is making around 200rwkw. Bl4ck32's R32 is running a small rb20det high flow running 16psi, that makes around 220rwkw using load points 17-18. The rb20det high flow has a very small turbine housing yet he is able to run upwards of 18degree's at wot. A couple of questions. What size injectors are you running? Did you have the plenum on with the std 210rwkw turbo?

Get the crank end float checked out. And cross your fingers it was simply put on incorrect.

The cruise areas look like they have been tweaked. This could possibly be the reason for poor fuel economy. I'll have a look exactly how much they have been tweaked. Too much ignition timing can cause poor fuel economy also.

Damn. (In awe) The oil pump topped it off. EDIT: All this work an no polishing of the combustion chamber? hehe Its easy to miss the little things.

lol.. Forget about turbo he's not after turbo. If he was.. R32 or 180sx over the VLT is an easy choice. Non-Turbo. R31 in stock form is a more reliable and a slightly better performance package in all aspects. Chassis and acceleration.

Checked water pump, maybe thats leaking/seeping a little not allowing pressure to build up resulting in a lower boiling point. Have a feel under the water pumps snout for a little hole if its genuine or on top of the snout if its aftermarket. Also check afr's and ignition timing. I drove to Lobethal last night.

So what did you go with? A replacement aluminium core or some custom copper thing? I have heard roumers that one of the leopards or cima VH41/VH45 things what ever they are are run a 3core aluminium core that fits in the R32's. No doubt R33 also. I would always go aluminium over copper, who cares if one can be welded and the other not. Its not like a bran new R31 2 core aluminium rad is expensive at ~$280 or there abouts. From memory copper is better at removing heat from the water BUT aluminium is better at transfering heat in the fins to the air. I did a little google but none the less..

I had the same problem, well started off the same, eventually it would start, stall, start, stall then start and be ok if I didn't touch the accelerator for a minute or two other wise it would stall. Occasionally it would idle on what sounds like 5 and a half cylinders, wiggle the injector body and it would come good or some times make it worse. Injector Number 3 was my totally stuffed one. Turned out to be the injectors. Use the search button, this has been covered many times prior.

Yer your way off Col-GTSX. Go back and do some more reading/googling. Sorry Buddy. The O2 sensor operates between 0 and 1v and trims the ecu's internal fuel map so the afr hangs as close as possible to stoich (14.7:1). It can only trim so much, so if you raise fuel pressure or run larger injectors you will find it will simply not work and constantly idle and cruise very rich. Should the o2 sensor die the ecu will run off the ecu's internal fuel map that is generally slightly on the rich side BUT within the o2 sensors capability to trim enough fuel out to bring the afr's to stoich. 1v being rich 0v being lean. From memory 0.9v is somewhere around 12:1. The ECU only uses the o2 sensors output at light throttle positions. Nothing to do with wot so it WILL NOT make the slightest difference to fuel spewing out the back. My RB30DET drops out of closed loop just after the TPS reads 1v. 1v is bugger all when it comes to throttle positions. It does vary slightly but almost always very close low 1v. This is the TPS (Throttle position sensor). The highest I've seen the o2 sensors voltage hit on the pfc h/c is 1v at approx 4000rpm on the untuned rb25det pfc base map at WOT. When it does this I do see fuel out the revision mirror if I catch it at the right time. To help you understand the workings a little better you can have a look at a few datalogs I have taken via the datalogit a few weeks back. Thats if you wish.

Yes. They have a little hole that corrodes first and springs a leak. Much better than not knowing its corroded until the clutch fan has mashed your radiator and bonnet. :S

Just a heads up for those that don't know. Coventry and the likes sell new Bosch Z32 AFM's for ~$280.

The 02 sensor doesn't affect what you have imagined. The 02 sensor is used to tweak afr's at light throttle cruise. The ecu ignores its output once you stick your foot in to it. Anything more than limping around it will turn off and use the values from the map within the ecu.