Cubes

Remove the switch in the dash and solder away. Its only 2 screws from memory.

Conclusion.... Only real way to prevent such a thing happening is to wire in relays. Wouldn't want the lights to go on a long distant trip interstate or..... :S

lol... Ppls, he said its leaking water from the water pump. So he needs to replace his water pump, has it had its 100,000km service? :S

Thats exactly my thinking.. BUT why is it generating enough heat for it to melt the little plastic lugs that place the spring loaded pressure on the metal contacts in the first place. Its rather common for R32's to do in their lightswitch. The Auto elec, (who owns a rather tweaked R33) said he's had quite a few R32's in, he solution was to completely bypass the origional relays and wire up his own. ~$180 he quoted, bugger that I can do it for next to nothing myself. Either way, my bodgy mod worked, has for 3years if not more. The years are flying past, I've had the damn car for 4years now

Mines done this. At first the right low beam would just drop out, give the dash switch a wiggle or switch it off and on quckly and both would come back on again. After a while both lights dropped out, leaving only high beam and parkers. I had the auto elect replace the switch. 6 months later it did it again. I ripped the dash switch out and soldered the contcts together so that if one earths they both earth. You will see what I mean when you pull the switch apart. The problem lies with these little plastic lumps of plastic that are used on a roll type switch to place pressure upon the contact to earth it out. The plastic appears to melt causing the contact not to make contact properly. Hope that makes sense. As a bonus the low beam now stays on when I switch the high beam on. Its been like this for 3years without a problem. I am a little nervous about leaving the high beam on for long periods of time as I fear it may be overloading the switch having both low and high on at the same time.

Don't think about runninh a higher pressure cap UNLESS you replace every single hose and hose clamp. Higher pressure rad caps will blow hoses much more often.

Nisasn want $280 for an R32 GTST O2 sensor. That sucks. I'm hoping the R33 S1 O2 sensor is the same. Graham West Dyno down in Adelaide apparently knows what aftermarket o2 sensor to use with the rb20det's. He quoted $130.

R33's are slow unless they run an PFC. Eaaaaveen R32's even are quicker. I'd be keen to see what the old school skyline can run with the rb20t in it.. . Should go pretty damn hard. Bumped that boost up yet?

They weren't able to machine up shims?!?!? The reason for the smaller base circle is to allow for a higher lift without or with very little head modification. Tomei also uses this method to squeeze out a little more lift.

The loose side of the belt on mine at certian rpm's does look like it goes a little blury. I guess this is what you are calling harmonics? I wouldn't say it wobbles 5mm though, looks like maybe half a mm but really quick so it looks like its not moving just slightly blury. The drive side (right side looking at the motor from the engine bay) is always nice and tight with no bluryness. With regards to the tensioners. I bought one genuine nissan one and then a genuine holden. They are basically the same apart from holden skimping out and running only 1 bearing instead of 2 that nissan do. The holden one is ever so slightly cheaper. Nissan use two bearings side by side within the shell that the belt runs on. Holden use one bearing located in the center of the shell. I didn't bother with using an idler as Nissan wanted $280 for one. lol What a joke. The tensioners the rb's use are locking tensioners so if anything they should be more expensive than the idler due to a slightly more complex design. If that make sense. :S

You really should use the search button, this has been covered many times. Mine hit 92% at 176rwkw with an external bosch pump. The std AFM was hitting 4.98v, the Z32 was hitting 4.2v. In order to hold a 12:1 AFR ~500rpm after power starts dropping off injectors hit 100%. At the safe 80% I would consider it very close to the figures SydneyKid has suggested. I've seen 243rwkw out of stock injectors (clint32) it was running some serious fuel pressure though, it went on to run a 12.8 with a healthy mph. He was origionally trying to run the RX7 IV injectors however Martin had issues getting the rb20det to idle with them and the remaped ecu. Really depends how happy the dyno is. We recently had a dyno day at the dyno I use. Many were rather unhappy when their car made less power than their own dyno, in one instances 30rwkw (down from 300+ to 280rwkw) and another ~20rwkw less.

You will never really know of the cas was dropped or just broke once it was touched. Similiar to bl4ck32's. On one motor its fine, remove it, bolt it on the new motor and its stuffed. If the tuner deals with skylines he will have a spare cas laying around, possibly on another car.

I can't say I'm a fan of the R31 looks (apart from the coupes). None the less here's my argument against the VL. OMG... WHAT CHASSIS RAILS!!! No wonder they have been known to pop windscreens and flex like buggery. Which would help explain why they weigh damn close to the weight of an R32 that is a smaller car.

GO THE VN! Gotta love those driveline vibrations as you accelerate hard.

The factory specs are 10L/100km's for the rb25det and 10.5L/100km's for the RB20det. My Rb20DET was pretty spot on to factory specs doing 470km's per 50litres ~10.6L/100..

I still think you should definitely look at the CAS. Looks like what happened to Bl4ck32's anyhow. His Cas was fine.. pulled the motor out, dropped in the new, bolted everything up and it was a dog. Replaced cas picked it close to 100rwkw. It idled fine and appeared to run fine under light load. Thought the issue was the exhuast, replaced exhaust, nothing. Then stumbled upon the cas. He could have stuffed up the cam timing, it sounds as if its been double checked.

ULP is fine in mine providing I dont run over 6psi. So basically I keep it off more than that boost. Mines not tuned so I really don't like giving it a bootfull as at around 5600rpm its going lean, sometimes I can't help myself in first and second if its running 98.. So I fill it with ULP and it forces me not to boot it or load it up excessively at low rpm (1500rpm in say 5th gear trying to climb a hill) The 3ltr its quite good in traffic, I can take off quite quickly and be well ahead of the traffic changing gears at ~2500-3000rpm with light throttle and no boost. I obviously run a PFC so I can keep an eye on detonation. This is heading off topic.. .Sorry Mafia.

Yes Cooling system was bled. Running on 4cyl's is zero compression in cyls 5 & 6. There was no oil in the coolant or vice versa. The head simply cracked, lost compression in cyls 5 & 6 and 100psi in cyl 4, it ran like a pig, sis drove for 10km's to home. VL's can sometimes run for months with cracked heads and no tell tale signs, depending how bad its cracked. The water in the oil usually shows up in the PVC valve before anything else all though there was none in there. I was hoping a headgasket as it went so suddenly, no tell tale signs like usual. It simply cracked and cracked bad. It wasn't using any water, it was running perfect and not thrashed prior to the head crack. Ripped the head off.. she's cracked. Its simply holdens lack of R&D in fitting the rb30 in to the VL + the fact the rb30 head does have a weakness. R31's crack heads too... just not if the cooling system is good unlike the VL's. A mate of mine had the same thing happen to his VL. Perfect working order then crack. The VL I bought when I was 18 never cracked but I did sell it within 9months to upgrade from that yucky interior. My RB20DET was cooking and I didn't realise due to just purchasing the car, just smelt hot and spewing out coolant. It ran like that for a complete summer, replaced the temp sender realised it had been driving around on the H!!! That still ran fine for many years after and a solid 100,000km's.

200km's per tank is way way too low. I'm still running the rb25det base map with my 3ltr, I use up to load point 13-14 for general driving before boost is made, once on boost its on to load point 16-17. The last tank of local driving (mostly 60km/h in to town etc) I managed 451km's. That was on ULP (due to lack of bp and mobil 98 fuel in SA + it helps me keep of it as its not tuned). If I'm stuck in to it with 98 fuel then I see around 380-430km's per 50-53litres. Rip the injectors out, get them flowed. It may be why you are unable to run any decent ign. timing. One may be stuffed causing only one cyl to ping.

Check the ign. timing has been set correctly. Some RB's double pulse with cheapish timing lights, they may have simply guessed or even worse placed the cas back in its origional position thinking it will be the right ign timing. Double looping the wire some times gets around the double pulse. OR it could be just a co-incidence that your CAS has decided to crap its self. Bl4ck32's recently did this, it wouldn't make any more power than 130rwkw. After fixing the cas it made 218rwkw.

Thats definitely a dream setup. Very nice pics. With regards to the rb30det thing.. I think the biggest concern is the height. One big advantage of the 2.7 kits from japland. But revability... Its got everything to do with gearing and how well the hotside flows. The VL's run a 3.45:1, run that in your Stagea and it too will feel like a big diesel.

R31... They are better sorted from factory. Lower diff ratio that accelerates the car quicker. Better cooling system setup. Nicer stiffer chassis. My sister recentlyish bought a NA VL that had done a genuine 137,000km's. It was spotless. First thing we did was throw a bran spankin new radiator in it, new genuine nissan thermostat, new clutch fan and gave the whole system a power flush. ~9months later without a warning it started to run on 4cyl's. No overheating nothing, it sat solid on the 2nd notch. 1 nasty arsed cracked head. The cooling system was perfect, there was ZERO reason for the crack. Now its sitting in the old mans shed next to her previous VL that also has a cracked head. :S I prefer the exterior look of the VL, especially a nice dark coloured VL Calais.

Increased power/boost isn't going to place extra load on the cam belt as the load is fixed via the valve springs. Big nasty cam lobe chewing valve springs is when I would consider a supposive tougher cam belt.

Genuine is all you will need. It also has nice markings that makes lining up everything a little more fail safe.

RBtwin, mines perfectly fine, no strange noises no strange wobbles or vibrations. I used the Dayco belt. I have also made mention of the apparent different tooth profile with the Powergrip belt in the guide.