Cubes

I would buy 33 also. Much better platform to start modifying.. Cheaper in the long run.

Added.

You'll be pushing it to get one for 13k.

I never mentioned power. I'll make it a little clearer. With regards to how quick each car is.... R33 is quicker in dead stock form. R33 is quicker with both only having an exhaust. R32 is quicker with both having Exhaust, fmic and a boost increase to what is considered the maximum before the ecu starts playing up. (~14-15 for the R32 and ~10-11 for the R33 due to R&R, obviously some R33's are freaks and don't suffer the R&R until ~12psi) R33 is quicker once you drop a pfc in to it or SAFC. Not talking about power, talking about the overall package. Thats the power to weight and diff gears and when the ecu begins having issues with R&R.

I always forget about the labour side of things as I do everything myself. But if the auto is shagged he is up for the cost of removal/install anyway so it may be a good time to consider the swap. RB20's do indeed need lots of boost to get the air in past those small valves.

Its interesting you say the sump sits in line with the rb20 in there. Mine sat slightly higher and it even had a broken torque (passenger) side engine mount. I replaced the engine mount when the rb30 went in and the sump sits perfectly level with the crossmember. Generally if you hit something that is high enough to hit the sump the cross member won't save it. Years ago in my first car I hit a rock on a dirt road, it smashed my sump right at the front, the cross member didn't save it. I also mounted a rather large gutter, once again smacking the front of the sump, the cross member didn't save it then either. Either way it sits pretty much perfectly level with the cross member.

Anton, Drop a R32 5speed in it.. They are dirt cheap. Look in to the patrol clutch, they are cheap and an upgrade over std, I'll assume they would be good enough for 200rwkw. Manual... Better fuel economy, better life out of your brakes. Do it.

ATI damper = ~900 or so . Don't get carried away with the build, too much power will go up in tyre smoke, the car will be dissapointing to drive due to lack of traction even with a set of wide semi's. By the looks of it expect to spend ~8-9k on the build. Don't forget to fit the cranks oil pump drive collar. How much power do you intend to push with the TO4Z? Sell the GTST grab a GTS4 or GTR and bolt the motor in that. Much more useable. Its nice to dream and get carried away with the build up, I did slightly and wish I had not as forged pistons is not needed for 300rwkw, headwork was not needed and would have been better spent on a set of cams and springs.

Thanks for the crank collar tip... I am definitely going to be finding out if its possible to fit one while the motor is assembled. Fat32, sounds like the same issue GTR's have.. Any chance you are running an uprated pump? Throw smaller head oil restrictors in it, tomei do them.

140psi isnt bad considering the cams you are running. My stock rb20det when it was fresh had ~145psi across all 6 with the stock cams that have 0degree's overlap. As you increase overlap you bleed off compression, showing up low on the compression test guage. If you like the 2ltr economy at least look at the series 2 rb25 crank and rods as this will give you the nice fat oil pump drive required for high rpm high flow/loading oil pumps. One reason I stuck with the stock rb25det pump on my rb30det was to ensure not too much load was placed on the fragile short crank oil pump drive. I didn't have $600 at the time to waste on a JUN long oil pump drive adaptor. Go for the 2.3ltr.. cheaper to get a hold of not to mention the added reliability should you miss a gear. Why did it blow a hole in the piston? Lean? With regards to economy... You will be pleased to know myself going to the 3ltr has hardly affected economy if I drive it around normally. Get stuck in to it and it definitely sucks more juice, all though it hasn't had the light and moderate load points tuned. Economy went from 10.6l/100km's to 11.6l/100km's, it is on boost a lot more with the 3ltr. At the moment its dropping down to just under 12:1 before it gets to zero vacuum. I prefer it to run stoich up until zero vacuum where it then drops to 13.5:1 until 2psi of boost is made then after that down to 12:1. I assume mine is dropping out of closed loop early due to the pfc being calibrated for the RB20DET motor. The rb20det would hold closed loop (stoich) until a shade over zero vacuum. Hopefully once its had a full tune it will return the same if not better economy than the rb20det. Depending where it makes boost break the motor in with the wastegate wired all the way open. Make no boost so you can really load it up with full throttle. No in gear deceleration, drop it in neutral and coast to a stop.

Carl h, If you are currently taking it to 8.5k... RB's live a short(er) life when taken over 7-7.5k. Not only are you hammering the bearings you are also risking oil pump failure at those rpm's. I say The head: Drop a set of 1mm over sized valves in it, mild port/polish, clean things up a little and keep your 260duration cams. The bottom end: Throw a set of R33 GTR rods and crank (~2.4ltr) or if not available a set of Series 2 rb25 rods and crank (~2.3ltr). Reason I say R33 GTR and not R32 GTR rods and crank is because Nissan rectified the oil pump drive failure fault and elarged the oil pumps drive. The same goes for the Series 2 R33 RB25. Be sure to order pistons AFTER as you will have to sort out the pin height to have the piston sitting in the bore correctly. All the above will help spool the tubo quicker and reduce the rpm that you use mean while increasing average power. Bring the rpm down to 7.5k and the motor will last much longer than at 8.5k. The GTRs @ Bathurst wouldn't take it over 7k when racing at the Bathurst 1000 due to reliability issues over ~7.5k.

Savman, What power in total did the 350z make?

Get some true gasket paper from supercrap etc, use a stanley knife...

Mine was making 219hp at the wheels, thats Around 300hp at the crank.

Depends if you want to be seen driving with an R32? Vange, wait until summer hits. The cops setup specific defect stations down Rundle (near hungry's) and Hindley. They also setup defect stations on the western side of KFC on anzac highway just after the lights or on the eastern side of the KFC lights heading towards town. At the moment its not so bad.

I see P plates.. Maybe its the driver. My little old R32 with the rb20det running only a little more boost didn't have too much troubles with one.

You can buy different thickness gasket paper from any autoshop, even supercrap has it.

The VRS kits come with inlet manifold and plenum gaskets, as in head to inlet manifold and inlet manifold to plenum.

I actually prefer the R33 GTST over the R34 GTST... There's something about the front guard of the R34 GTST I don't like. Just looks odd. I think it needs to be ever so slightly pumped.

The RB30 really needs a nice free flowing hotside OTHERWISE you start loosing out of rev's and it turns in to a diesel type motor. A .63 GT30R would be too small. Look at a .63 GT35r at least or a GT3040 .82.

I think the R33 looks rough as simply lowered slightly on a set of nice wheels running 255's. Start putting body kits on them and they start to look a little ricey. Then again I think the new HSV's look ricey with their body kits. R32's are the same.. Nice gtr style front bumper with the type-m body kit slightly lowered on a set of nice wheels running the widest tyres you can fit under the guards. Body kits generally ruin cars I think. I'm always able to pick the dodgy lines and wavey plastic/fibreglass and think why oh why.....

No idea.. According to garrets catalogue and turbine maps the GT35R .82 flows the same as a GT30R 1.06. or GT35R .64 the same as a GT30R .82. Sky30's GT3540 .82 has 19-20psi boost in by ~3500rpm. I'm going to go with a .7 or .82 GT3040. I'm not after mega power just street usable power. upwards of 280rwkw I'll be happy.

hahah.. at the R32 comment.. I agree.. It does look a little like a VN cluster surround but still much better. The inlaws have a VN.. The dash surround and center vents etc look damn ugly. Nothing wrong with the old VL Turbo though.. They are damn light, slightly lighter than the R33 I believe, and make better power with minmal mods than both the R33 and R32. Exhaust, fmic and some boost and they are up there making the same power as a R33 with the same mods but a fully tuned ecu. hence the SAU dyno day and Natho's 187rwkw VLT with its 2.5" exhaust and small IC

Google is my friend. R32 GTST/GTR and R33 Series 1 GTST's have the same short oil pump drive. R33 Series 2 GTST's have the long drive. All R33 and R34 GTR's have the long drive. RB30ET's have the short drive and don't suffer the same problems, BUT they do have a different designed gear, the gear's aren't loaded up as much as the pumps run less pressure and flow less oil + they don't rev as hard. Now trying to find one for a decent price. I remember Nengun wanted $600 for one.. Or something around that mark anyhow.

I've found the origin of the pic I posted earlier http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album36/abf?full=1 Its apparently an R32 GTR Crank with the oil pump drive collar to widen the area of drive. There's a nice 1024x768 pic. From what I understand one must first machine off the origional small crank drive then fit up the jun item. After a bit of looking in to it I am 99% sure that all the pumps are the same, its only the drive collar that differs. I could be wrong.