Cubes

Machining is required to fit the crank collar. http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...html?en#op-drvc

33 comes with a good motor and gearbox. All though the R32 is lighter, smaller and has more of a racier feel, the gearbox and motor will eventually have to be replaced with at least r33 bits IF you plan to make 230-240rwkw+ With regards to how quick each car is.... R33 is quicker in dead stock form. R32 is quicker with real mild mods such as exhaust, fmic and boost due to the R33's rich and retard. R33 is quicker once you drop a pfc in to it.

On the rb25det yes.. If you push more than 12-13psi they tend to let go. The ceramic turbo's on the rb20det you are able to run around 14psi or so. I ran 1bar for ~3years and 100,000km's until I dropped the rb30det in that due to the rb25 head flowing so much better required 9psi on the same stock turbo to make ~10rwkw more power. It also has a lot to do with driving conditions as what kills the ceramic turbo's isn't boost its EGT's. High EGT's due to poor tuning, detonation OR track work kills ceramic turbo's in a flash. Using a ceramic turbo for track use I would be nervous to push more than stock boost through it, simply due to the heat, even then ppls have had turbo's let go at the track on stock boost. Roy (Troy) in his R32 pushed 1bar or 14psi I don't remember through his and attended multiple track days without a failure so at the end of the day when it comes to track use its luck of the draw. Push 14psi through it, providing afr's and ignition are good with no detonation it will be perfectly fine. I have a spare RB20DET turbo laying around here should you prove me wrong. The RB25 exhaust.. I think they are 2.5"? If so replace the muffler with a straight through. That will bring power up.

WTF... Power still climbing at 8000rpm?!? What sort of cams and exhaust manifold/turbine housing have you got on that thing?!? Sky30 with his stock exh. manifold must be really sucking the rpm's out of it. His makes its peak of ~312rwkw at ~5800rpm. With regards to the collar... I remember someone stating its held in place by a little screw of some sort.. That makes me nervous just in its self, especially knowing the vibrations that travel through the crank.

That is scary... For me... The N1 gears apparently run a tougher gear, I remember some one did a metal hardness test on the N1 and non N1 quite a while back and that was the result. N1 = harder. BUT N1 does run higher oil pressure so that in its self places more strain on the crank drive. I might do a little looking in to a crank collar, its not hard to fit especially if one is pulling bits off to replace a headgasket and oil restrictors in the future. Totally unrelated - Where does yours make its peak power?

And wear the bores quicker. If I could do it again I would not go forged pistons.... Stockers are fine with good tuning.

Skyrine Dave, Looking at your stuffed oil pump pic. I think whats happened is its first cracked where the crank drive touches the oil pump, then jammed then stripped the drive. The crank and oil pump is not a really tight fit, as a result the direction of rotation will have the crank drive place a greater load towards the front of its direction (clockwise). .if that makes sense.. You can see the crack begins from this greater load point. Have a look at this pic.. You can see where the crank drive has previously wore the oil pump gear slightly.. The mark towards the inner of the engagement looks the exact spot where yours cracked. You didn't miss a gear any time prior by any chance OR using a R31/VL/VLT Harmonic balancer?

I've just found some other pics. RB30e oil pump internals.. note the small crank engagement. And this is a suspect pic... I'm unsure if its a R33 GTR crank or another earlier crank with a Jun adaptor.

I've dug through some pics and found a pic of the rb30e crank drive and the rb25det oil pump crank drive. Looking at the RB25DET oil pump really makes me wonder if the oil pumps differ at all from the newer ones. Could it be that only the crank drive differs?

Stock IC? Push boost up to 12-13psi. Mine would tail boost off at high rpm to 12.5psi.

So its a R32 rb20det? or? 4.444 sound just right. Cant wait to check it out some time.

Spotted 1 Silver R34 continually doing stupidly high 6000rpm 3rd gear speeds down Anzac Highway with his/her friend in a Blue S14 200sx (rolling runs)

Is it a late model RB20DET? If it is.... Keep the stock rb20det turbo for response, dial in 1bar with an EBC or bodgy actuator mod (get it holding boost) then do the ecu. It should make around 170-175rwkw and pull hard from 3000-3500rpm to 7000rpm. In order of priority.. Dump Pipe, nice cust 3" exhaust with a straight through muffler, 1bar boost, ecu/safc or what ever. What diff ratio are you running? That thing would hammer.

You two ppls seriously need to slow down...... Cruising home last night I saw a silver R34 and a blue S14 doing insane speeds along anzac highway as the ran multiple times from ~50km/h all the way through second, all the way through third... Cars every where, plain stupid. There's no need for such high speeds, if you must simply give it a bit of a squirt off the line to around the speed limit and thats it.. Not keep holding it down.

The R32, S1 R33 GTS-T's & R32 GTR's all have the same small crank engagement. I've got a couple of pics of an apparently R34 GTR crank but I've since found the same pic and it was named a R33 crank with the Jun adaptor attached so I really don't know what the pic is of. I need pics. I can't remember if I took any of the rb20det when I had it out, I'll have to scrounge around.

That looks the same as my rb25 oil pump. The drive is on the actual crank. I haven't seen a R33 GTR+ crank so I really don't know how it differs. I assume the motor is now dead? :S What rev's were being pulled to damage the oil pump?

www.calaisturbo.com.au

I've done a lot of looking in to this.. I wouldn't be using 10ohm resistors, they will make the injectors laggy and you will be required to adjust the injectors lag time as a result. The GTR resistor pack measures up anywhere from 5.5ohms to 5.8ohms. I've checked out the R30 resistor pack and the ones I have came across measure up as 6ohms. At worse, half an ohm is going to make bugger all difference. Best part is they are CHEAP and the plug it uses can be bought from any local auto shop for $3.95, meaning you don't have to solder to connect it to the loom, then use the other half of the plug (female side) to make a loop back type plug should you put high imp. resistors back in at a later date.

Loony Head, I can answer. The answers are in the guide, we used the same measurements for lowering the motor. Off the top of my head I can't remember. There is no clearance issues with std ic piping. With regards to how close to the cross member.. It sits closer by how much its lowered by. Try not to think to much.. Its all very easy. Simply lower the motor, bolt everything up, extend the dump pipe height a little to meet the extra height.. Thats all that needs to be modified, everything bolts up perfectly.

There's a video floating around some where showing a bird on the back of a motor bike riding side by side with another.. THe dude decides to pop a mono and accelerate off, all you can see is her sliding off the back trying to hang on, as she's off she's desperately trying to grab on to anything.. OUCH!!! I've been on the back of my Uncles old 900 Kwaka thing that he did up, he popped a small mono on that and damn it was hard to hold as simply due to the angle. Scared the crap out of me.

GT35R with a .82 on 16psi doing 320rwkw is pretty damn good. I know of another RB30DET running RB25DET VCT 256 duration cams, nice exhaust manifold and inlet manifold making 323rwkw on 18psi. Stock exhaust manifold with a .82 machined up rear it would make a shade over 300rwkw with 18-19psi. Sky30's is pretty much on par also... 312rwkw on ~19psi stock exhaust manifold, 260duration cams.

Bugger...

GTR's ALL are solid.. R34 GTT is also solid. 0-100 in under 4secs or a flat 4sec.. I'll be happy with. Possibly RE55s or RA1's + a decent diff and tight subframe should do the trick with... No idea how much power is needed.

I really don't know as i'm only thinking how close it is to everything.

What boost was the 2871 running?