Cubes

Awesome price. Care to elaborate on exactly how the fuel rail has to be modified? Just machined out a little or?

Bl4ck32's fuel pump is super quiet.... Shaun definitely has a few tricks up his sleeve getting the 044 in tank and QUIET!! I run an external bosch pump, that used to be very noise on hot days until I ran a direct feed from the battery to the pump. Even on the last couple of hot days I couldn't hear it inside the car, maybe a slight buzz thats about it. Outside of the car it was rather noisy but at least I couldn't hear it inside. Unsure exactly how the rewire has fixed the incar noise, I suspect its simply shifted the harmonics or something so that it doesn't vibrate the floor pan/in the car. It used to be so bad I could feel it in the back seat once everything got really warm. :S What is interesting is if I disable the std intank pump and leave the external running the external makes that same noisy buzz/uneven sucking sound. Possibly my stock pump totally craps its self once fuel gets warm. I'm happy with it now, I couldn't care less how loud it buzz's outside the car, as long as its quiet inside.

It does take a bit to get used to, them wearing the white x-ray gowns. Either way, I'd tend to stay away from Dubai, I understand it is very much Westernised but none the less there is still a high risk.

Mine plays up every so often.. Sometimes even dropping to what looks almost like zero Mine used to do this with the rb20det and now with the rb30det. My issue is with the sender, pop through a decent mechanics shop and ask if they can do a oil pressure test while warm. It takes a few minutes to do so it would be expensive. Castrol 10w60 gets oil pressure up there, too much for my liking with my fresh motor. Castrol 5w30 is nice but a little too thin I think. I've found the best oil for my motor is Motul 5w40 8100. Over the two above castrol oil's I've tried it makes the motor the quietest. With the motul you really have to listen for piston slap first thing in the morning, the castrol appears to simply make the whole motor noisy.

I 'THINK' not know. :S the difference between this and say a GT3076R (same comp wheel larger turbine wheel) would be that the GT3076R will make less boost at the lower rpm's. In other words it will snap on a little harder, the GT2876R being a little more progressive and offer more boost at lower rpm's. I think... maybe you can confirm that it does? Where does it start to make boost? There was an R33 with a GT28 (I don't know the specs) at our last dyno day, that made a solid 245rwkw. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=87573&st=0

Mine doesn't work that way.... Mine will be fine say hanging around the 20 to 30's... Dial in one more degree and it will spike over 60. Suck and see as the old saying goes.

How does it spool? With the small T28 turbine wheel it should be quite a nice street turbo.

lol

I dont believe any RB will consistently rev to 8k safely. Bu5ter has gone the whole hog inc. aftermarket harmonic balancer. From what I gather a nice build, keep everything light + a good balancer and its as close as you will get to safely. EDIT: Oh ... and huge cams. Cam it as if you had an rb25 reving to 9000rpm.

Thanks Ben... Well.... I left my water in bung loose and lost all my new expensive coolant upon the first start of my rb30det. :S Always do something a little silly. lol ------ Gary, Howd you go about machining the head around the followers with the head on? Wouldn't little bits drop down in to the valve stem/spring area due to machining? :S Trying to visualise it.

Awesome looking engine bay you have there Bu5ter.

You will be able to see what ignition timing is being run with a consult display. Blackwood auto and dyno have one. When I initially started the RB30DET on the stock rb20det ecu I limped it up to blackwood auto and dyno, paid $35, had them hook up the consult and sat in the passenger seat while I watched the ignition timing that was being run on boost. As boost would start to be made it was running around 28degree's, instantly ping and do the R&R that you often see on R33 ECU's. Cas timing and the timing the ecu runs at each load point are different.

Looks ok at that boost level.. No doubt more boost will get it running lean pretty quick. Pull it out the fpr bleed see how it goes. Boost is also super linear... which is strange.

Not sure if its comparable... On the stock guage the RB30DET @ 60km/h on cruise sits at around -5.5x100mmHg. Idle is ~ -6x100mmHg ---- The file doesn't appear to work. Save as jpg?

One more thing... 1400R, you said it sits at 0 at 60km/h... What do you mean by this? Do you mean it goes to 0 vacuum when you floor it or does it mean that when cruising it sits on 0. If its sitting on 0 while cruising then check the little rubber hose going to the factory map sensor that feeds the std boost guage its reading. My steps would be... Rip that fuel pressure reg bleeder off, if that does help spend the $35 and throw it on the dyno to see whats going on, AFR wise. Blackwood auto & dyno also have a tool to plug in to the consult port.

1400r, Blackwood auto and dyno do cheap power runs $35. Consider getting one done and checking the afr's.

Interestering you say you run an adj. fuel reg bleeder. I used to run one of those on my RB20DET with stock turbo at 1bar and an external bosch pump. My RB20DET used to run fairly lean through the mid range without the bleeder, using the adj. fuel reg worked wonders for top end power as it pulled it out of the 10:1 afr's. The problem was to lean out the top end you also have to lean out the already near lean mid range, leaning out furthur made my mid range suck, it felt dougy then all of a sudden it would scream out. I always got good fuel economy I assume due to the leanish mid range the stock ecu would give, 470km's to a tank running around locally or just over 600 on the open road. I never used to drive it easy, always in to it. I ended up pulling off the adj. fuel pressure bleed off in favour of more mid range. Give it a try, it may drop the afr's just enough for the mid range and spool to come up. With the fpr bleeder set not to bleed it still causes a slight delay in the fpr seeing boost and still does cause it to lean out slightly, I found mine would slightly ping if jumping on the throttle 4000rpm+ due to this. My experience with the fpr bleeder is that it works really well with very minimal mods, in my example an exhaust, stock fuel pump, stock ic, stock turbo at 12psi. But yer pull off the fpr bleeder and take it for a spin, it may pick up the mid range. It did with my stock turbo running 1bar. I've got a dyno graph of the lack of mid range due to the pfc bleeder, you can see the torque come up flatten then all of a sudden pick up once afrs go richer. Its a pitty I didnt get the afr sheet. This was back when Tim (rpm & horsepowerinabox owner back then) just started selling the fpr bleeders.

With the stock ecu mine would occasionally have a single miss at part throttle, usually when slowing down then going to accelerate again. Unsure what it was, only every blue moon would it do it. PFC and Z32 AFM went in and I haven't seen it since.

Throw a PFC in to it, lots of ignition timing and a little on the rich side to bring boost up and aid in low end torque.

The VG30DET was used around the 94-95, so say the same as an R33. If I had a VG30DET and was going to put it on my RB20DET again I would simply use the S2 RB20DET turbo and its smaller turbine housing but use the VG30's larger Compressor cover, this will help top end airflow some what but still retain the quick spool and mid range of the smaller turbine housing. Then its basically a RB25DET turbo, bar the smaller compressor wheel. It comes down to the fact of; for the amount of airflow the vg30 compressor generates the 2ltr doesn't need to breathe so well on the hotside, it only kills mid range and spool time.

Kinetic, The VG30 turbo we are talking about isn't the twin turbo.. Its the single turbo VG30DET out of the latish model Cima/Leopards.. They made 190kw from factory at around 6000-6200rpm. 363NM torque at 3200rpm or there abouts. Abo bob, I'll say it again but better. The VG30 turbo runs a small puny compressor wheel (rb20t), with a large turbine this makes for a lazy turbo that is suited to the larger 3ltr motor that is required to make 190kw at ~6000rpm. If it were to use the smaller turbine housing it would make this peak power much earlier in the rpm and nose over, resulting in a crap feeling diesel power band. For example, peak power at maybe 4500rpm and peak torque at 2000rpm. Very much like what I saw with the rb20det turbo on my rb30det. Should they have dropped a larger R33/R34 compressor wheel in to the VG30 setup it may have overshot the power level they were aiming for. To achieve the power level and boost they were after the rb20det turbo guts with slightly larger housings worked perfect. The R34 runs a larger compressor wheel, every revolution it takes a larger bite out of the air and flows more air in to the motor, as a result there is more exhaust gas. Resulting in a less 'lazy' turbo compared to the VG30 that has been setup for higher exhaust flow. Lets swap the turbine housing specs that one would use for a GT35R on a RB25DET and Ford 4ltr. The RB25DET you would want the smaller .82 turbine housing, if not .64. The Ford wants a 1.06 or greater. Lets swap them... Drop the 1.06 on the rb25det and it will make for a lazy peaky turbo with stuff all mid range. Drop the .82 or .64 on the Ford 4ltr peak power made much earlier in the rpm as a result mid range and low end will be huge. Good for towing but not good for track work or acceleration. I've now got a VG30DET turbo on my Rb30DET, it suits the motor much much better than the Rb20DET with its small quick spooling housings, I am now able to accelerate through first without boost snapping on hard and chirping the wheels, I can now have better throttle control. It now also rev's harder and makes power where I use it, it will now flick to 6k where as before it would only rev to 5k before power would nose over. If you do engine airflow calcs you will see why the rb20det turbo only makes power to 5k. 5k airflow from the rb30det is roughly the same as the rb20det at 7000k. I don't remember exactly but its around the mark. Its all about matching a turbo to the motor. If that makes sense.

I lack the moderator tag under the avtar also. Also cannot see the mod section.

Thats roughly what they go for at wreckers.. I've only seen them go cheap here in on the forums. When JMS was open they wanted $800 for an R33 turbo and $600 for a VG30 turbo. :S

I do hate the VG30DET turbo on a 2ltr.. On a 3ltr it works nice. The 2ltr simply does not need the larger turbine housing when paired up with the small compressor wheel it runs, sure it works but it produces the same lag as what a GT2530 or GT2510 produces yet it doesn't deliver the goods. The larger turbine is required on the larger motor as you don't want peak power being made at 4000rpm. Drop a RB25DET turbo on Nathan and you will drift better.

Out of curiosity... Why did the rotor blow?