Cubes

There's plenty of options regarding half shafts and bolt patterns. Ceffy's run the 2 x 3 bolt pattern in their R200.

Interesting links.... http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=14...ght=Basic+Knock http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=14...ght=Basic+Knock Take the knock readings with a pinch of salt. Throw it on the dyno watch the exhaust and listen for ping.

Interestering... When Bl4ck32 was using the laptop it was in advanced knock, i gunned it in third, dash light flashed and asked him if it went over 50 (I changed the max value before dash light flashes), he said no. :S I've since pulled a few degree's out around 4000rpm, no more dash light flashing as there is no longer any det at that rpm. 5600rpm+ i've pulled a couple degree's out but I won't take the car there as its leaning out from then onwards.

Emre, I'll go by the basic knock as that has consistently returned higher knock values with both Bl4ck32 and my R32 AP PowerFC. With the PFC H/C plugged in at the same time the H/C has reported the same knock value as the datalogits basic knock. It appears my and bl4ck32's knock sensors are working well. General driving and cruising it basically sits on 1, give it a boot full and it will creep to 20-30 and that is it, if it goes higher then it will most definitely hit either 60ish or 100ish with quick spikes. It never holds an even 45+.

Definitely a little laggy. 15 psi by 4810rpm. Others have stated the GCG/VG30 setup is pretty much all in by 4000rpm. However the VG30 turbine housings used there was the later model Cima/Leopard VG30DET, this VG30 turbine housing also happens to be the same as the R34 GTT turbine housing. What boost controller?

I forget now which was which, one of them didn't require welding as its a plate sort of engine mount, there's enough room on that one to simply redrill the holes. I used a little bit of copper behind the old holes and filled them in, ground them flat and paint. The other mount, the flat plate part that bolts to the engine needs to be removed, then simply slid down a little chopped and rewelded. Both Bl4ck32's and mine where 100% done the same. I didn't take any pics as the motor was hanging there waiting for the engine mounts, I was too keen to bolt her in.

LOL But I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the statement... Cheerz, Pubes.

What do u want the ratio?

My H/C appears to be the same reading as the basic knock.

How much did you pick the diff up for? Looks good, I am also soon to drop a GTR center in my housing, I am going to try and track down a 3.9:1 crown and pinion.

Why does the values from basic knock differ from advanced knock? The basic knock values read higher, i.e one of the logs had a ping of 115 in basic yet it was only 60 in advanced. Both set to max.

On the topic of datalogging... The Map Watch window is awesome for tuning, you can see exactly which load and rpm point has what knock afr etc..

This is the Serial to USB dongle the datalogit likes/uses. http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/14/0c02f714.asp I've had a little look around, it looks as if the dongle is only available in NZ.

Whats the brand is your Serial->USB adaptor Bl4ck32? EDIT: Girls... Post your datalogit logs. The highest load (airflow hence power) peak we saw was Bl4ck32's peaks at 17322, approx load point 17-18 - RB20DET Highflow ~15-16psi) Mine peaks with a load of 14832, approx load point 16-17 (VG30DET TUrbo ~12psi tailing off to 10psi)

Which is why I didn't use the RB30DET pistons. They are simply std (but forged) RB30ET spec pistons. Nothing more nothing less.

Thats spot on... I like to think of it being similiar to airflow through a radiator. High pressure one side, low pressure in the engine bay will see good airflow through the radiator. Higher the pressure in the engine bay the less airflow through the radiator. Which I think is 'similiar' to what happens inside a turbo, lots of back pressure inside the scroll trying to escape out past the turbine wheel, place a low pressure area after the turbo's turbine wheel and you will most definitely have improved flow over having both sides with high pressure. The gas will move faster as a result spool/response/power will improve.

You have an RB30DET in your R32?

I'm running RB25DET Wiseco pistons, to make up for the smaller pin height the block has been decked 20thou. 'Apparently' the engine builder worked the comp out to 8.2:1. My calcs tell me its more like ~9:1.

Sky30.. Apparently only the S13/S14/S15 Auto diff's are 3.9:1. The S15 Manual diffs (6speed) are ~3.7:1. So its the diff out of an Auto you are after, unless you want a 3.7:1.

Do it!!! She'll be right . Its all in the tuning.

JimX, To know what ign. values you are using at WOT we need to know what load points are used at what RPM. Do a quick Map trace with WOT from low RPM and let us know. To me it looks as if the 15-16loadpoints have been fiddled with.. up from the std 18 that is. You may also get away with running more low end ignition timing providing you don't load it up and try and make all your boost at say 2000rpm.

With the RB20DET I was able to rev the crap out of it on 1bar of boost all the time and still manage a decent 470km's per tank. Since the RB30DET has been dropped it it boosts much much earlier, even just driving around on boost with the odd wot every so often the best I manage is 430km's per tank. This tank i've only managed 370. I have been stuck in to it quite a bit though.

VG30DET BB turbo's are indeed laggy POS. I've had one on my rb20det, it made 1bar a shade over 4000rpm under general driving conditions, first gear was quite sloooooow and lazy. I pulled it off and put back on the stock turbo and pushed boost up to 1bar, the stock turbo has a much fatter mid range, sure it won't pull hard to 7500rpm but it did pull hard to 7000rpm with a good ebc so that the little turbo will hold boost. Holding boost is the key to having good top end with the rb20det turbo. The VG30DET BB turbo is simply a glorified RB20DET turbo.. It runs the exact same compressor and turbine wheel as the rb20det. So in thoery and practice you can grab a rb20det turbo, drop on the vg30det comp cover and turbine housing and whamo you have a vg30det turbo. Put it this way... Rb25DET turbo R32 vs VG30DET turbo R32.. The RB25DET turbo R32 will rip the Vg30det's a new bum hole, much more mid range. The R34 turbo runs the larger vg30det turbo turbine housing. The R34 turbo is the pick of the bunch and will make more power than all of the other turbo's under it. The Vg30DET turbo can be considered as favouring exhaust flow, not what a little 2ltr needs. Sure it works really well on a 3ltr and drops the power band in just the right spot but on a 2ltr it is slow. PEAK POWER IS NOT EVERYTHING.

Have you had the car on 'y's dyno? It may be that 'x's o2 sensor requires calibration and is a little out, hence reading lean when it is actually rich. Before you do anything I would throw it on a different dyno for a power run to see if their dyno also shows its too lean.

I personally wouldn't go forged pistons UNLESS the power I was making requires forged rods. Stock pistons providing the comp ratio is good (no higher than 8.5:1) is reliable, as always it depends on the tune, forged pistons wont protect you from a bad tune/detonation.