Cubes

Abobob, Its definitely a concern, go with an 8.5:1 to be safe. On that note I believe Freebaggin is still running the stock 9:1, he hasnt mentioned the use of a thicker headgasket. He's running an internal gate .6 something GT3040R. I remember back when it was first fitted, ~270rwkw on 17psi, he has since fitted 256duration cams and cracked 300rwkw. Its not on an optimistic dyno either. It's not a NEO. Maybe the Neo has some issues with cam timing or something silly? I'm not 100% sure on the NEO VCT, is it constantly variable or??

Any one know?

Skyline-man. Anton's car is an Auto R32 RB20DET. Totally different kettle of fish to the rb25det.

Ahh well.. Thought about reselling the turbo? Drop on a R34 (choice) or R33 Turbo and make approx the same power on less boost with less lag? But it really depends if your figure is reading a little low or not as to whether the r34/r33 turbo would make the same power.

With regards to what boost level you have selected. That would be the last boost level highlighted prior to returning to the main menu. It selects the value eactly the same as when you select which AFM to use.

Does the powerfc go through a 'learn' mode where it gradua.ly increases boost? Or does it run in a kind of closed loop mode where it monitors current boost level and adjusts duty cycle real time?

Since your experience I have come across two other engine builders who say they won't touch Venolia for that very reason. Its a bugger how you always 'hear' about these things after something goes wrong. Don't forget Wiesco, I've had them in mine for 25,000km's. No oil usage.

Whats the final power goal Abo Bob? Think of Optimax Extreme.. This would no doubt give you a little buffer running a high static comp with some decent boost.

Yea It will need another tune for more boost.

4doorsleeper runs a new gen GCG highflow on his RB25DET AUTO, that made 220rwkw on I 'think' 14psi. So say... 20psi.. Might get you close to that.. Maybe depends if you run in to detonation problems. BUT then you need to start looking at engine reliability. Resistor location will be fine, up against the master cyl is a little better than above the turbo dump Hows fuel economy with the GTR injectors?

I think the high/low is really unnecessary. It would be nice to have but it still didn't stop the fuel heating up and making horrible sounds with my external pump when I was running the stock ecu. If anything, now with the pump receiving the voltage it should the pump is quieter.

If the relay fails the engine will stall. Its the same if the std relay were to fail. Either that or as some one previously mentioned the relay will fuse preventing the fuel pump from turning off when you turn the car off.

I ran an 8GA cable from the battery + to the fuse, to the relay, then 8ga from the relay to the external fuel pump and splice in the interal fuel pump. I ran a nice 8GA earth from the fuel pump to the chassis for the earth. One again splicing the internal fuel pump into the earth. Mount the relay vertical. It has appeared to stop mine from sticking on every blue moon when cold. I will replace it to be safe.

The RB20DET needs BOOST! I went from the rb20det making 164rwkw on 15psi to the rb30det making 176rwkw on 9psi. Engine size doesn't affect power, head and turbo airflow is what makes power. Push 18psi in to it and it will crack your 200rwkw goal. Speak to Chris32 what he thinks of his old Remapped ECU done by Martin Donnon compared to the PFC he now runs. If I remember correctly he said the mid range power increased quite a bit with the pfc. With regards to boost tailing off... This will aways occur with a manual boost controller to some extent, a cheapish option is to head down to your local turbo rebuilder and pick up a new wastegate actuator, down in Adelaide ATS sell an adjustable actuator for ~$120. You can select the preset also, from memory its something like 8psi, 12psi, 14psi, 17psi etc. Where did u end up mounting the resistor pack? The joys of trouble shooting a car that isn't quite performing the way you want it to. Sorry I have to ask... Does it actually make any boost in first? Being an auto would have an advantage as it will spool a little earlier.

I always pay by the month. I couldn't handle handing over a lump of $1750... Thats my new GT3040R turbo.

I might give it another shot... I can't get either turbo holding boost over 9-10psi on the 3ltr. I want 12. On the 2ltr it was fine.

I want an sound file of when it was on the dyno, the initial little punch shaun gave it sounded awesome..

I bypassed the std relay. It could be done, its much simpler to simply run a direct feed from the battery in to the boot, run it through the fuse then in to the relay. Use the existing std pump volt feed as the trigger. Be sure to mount the relay up and down. Since I mounted the relay vertical instead of sideways it hasn't jammed on. YET! It won't strain the std pump, they are designed for that voltage.

Ben, Which is why you wire it via a relay. Check out the first page part listing. bwilkeson, I've replaced all my fuel hose, pirtek have some good solid hose clamps to suit, much better than the cheap ones you get from the usual auto store. Fuel hose was damn expensive cost me $13 a metre for the good stuff.

I do agree... Looking at the design you can see the how it would be weaker. I'm aiming for upwards of 300rwkw. The current VLSD does what it whants when it wants, it seems to really like to let go of the left wheel during second gear acceleration. I might give Tilbrooks a buzz as they have built worked with R34 GTR's and quite a few s15's and see what they think on the helical s15/gtr diff's.

Shannons do have a nice policy.

So you found the bov mod works well as in holds boost better or..?

I edited my prior post..

bwilkeson, You previously mentioned... You mean high flow fuel lines as in larger diameter? How much is he charging for the wiring? Out of curiosity Quickly ring him and ask to fit up a switch to disable the fuel pump(s) should you need to work on the the fuel system. Also aids as a kill switch should you be required to leave the car in a shady area. I went a little silly on the fuses etc I used.. The 'mod' ended up costing me close to $60.

I've found if its tuned and does get knock over 35 'OCCASIONALLY' under certian circumstances it will also spike to over 60.