Cubes

I've done that mod.. it doesn't appear to make any difference to how the bov opens or when it opens. I did find drivability to suffer a little when cruising around the hills. Made the car jerk around more when you jump off and on part throttle. Depending it may also increase the chances surge. So.. I removed the grub.

If only we could tell which knock sensor reads what. Chris, If it is indeed pinging slightly and has been for some time then those little rb20's are tough little nuggets to crack.

I still can't find anything on the S15 diff being 'weak'. Only the gearbox's once up over 200rwkw with decent tyres. Do any of the blokes with R34 GTR's have issues once upping the power?

The S15 runs the eact same diff center as the R34 GTR. S15 diff being weak; what power level with what tyres are we looking at SteveL?

Keep them coming CootieWild.

Those pics actually make me laugh.

So... Set the dash trigger value to 50 with your new datalogit.

Well we all know what thought did.. Thought thought he farted but he sh*t himself. = without prejudice

Post a pic of your 'older' sister trent.

No... Just makes the overall price so much more expensive. I would much prefer to buy something that already has mods and nice paint. Gearbox, diff rebuilds are cheaper than a a nice paint job and decent turbo/injector/ecu setup.

I do

I was told of issues that have been seen with the 044 pump and std regs. 'Apparently' the std reg has trouble passing enough fuel to keep pressure low on idle, as a result fuel pressure *slowly* increases until what pressure I don't know. Closed loop is able to handle the increase in pressure 'apparently'. It only causes a problem on non closed loop ecu motors. How much of a problem.. I don't know. Tim Possingham mentioned he had come across this problem. Not really a problem just an annoyance.

konect, sounds very much like mine. For it to hit 105degree's you do have to be in some pain in the arse stressfull peak hour traffic with the a/c on and a hot day. Hit the AMB button, you will freak at the air temps. 60degree's is not uncommon.

haha ok.. I was in a rush.. the other half was nagging.

If its a little slow warming up its probably running an aftermarket thermostat. They open much earlier and wider than the genuines. The genuine thermostats open smaller amounts and are also slower closing. In VL Commodores I've found aftermarket thermostats to cause slight over heating if hammering up a long hill with the a/c on at 1/2 throttle (Willunga Hill = Big arsed Hill). The Genuines run the car slightly warmer but hold a much more consistent temperature without the horrible overheats up Willunga Hill. I've never bothered with an aftermarket in the Skyline, I do know of one that keeps quite cool and often seens track days without overheating hiccups. So I'd assume an aftermarket thermostat (cheapy) in the Skylines works quite well.

A place in the UK sell apparent genuine Apexi H/C controller holders. From memory they worked out around $40. No one was interested in the group buy to get prices down. Once its tuned Im going to remove the pfc h/c from my car and grab an extension cable for easy future. It was a novelty at first, now it has become a pain in the arse. http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/ Their web site sucks. Its hard to find the h/c holder.

Dont be holding out 3rd and 4th until you get the afrs checked. Melted piston. Looks good though.

All they have done is made it a little more street friendly. No doubt it will be much easier to accelerate away from the lights without the lag the old wrx's are renowed for.

Its the same with every insurance company. Any modification that is not legal, i.e you can get defected for will see the policy as void. I have never had an issue and have made one claim, my car was fairly stockish, due to the nature of the accident *not hooning* the insurance company didn't even bat an eye lid and simply paid to get it fixed. But should the police report state I was doing burnouts and driving dangerously I am sure they would have had a good look at the car. All the more reason to 'hide' modifications by running adjustable wastegate actuators (~$120), std bovs and having the tow truck send the car directly to your place after an accident if at all possible. If you were in an accident due to yourself hooning; now, if the car had less power, then you would have not been in that place at that time as a result the accident would have been avoided.

You will find most newish cars stay very hot under the hood. My old VS 5ltr commodore I think was actually a little hotter than the Skyline, pop the bonnet on that and you couldn't touch anything.

The skylines temp guage is designed in such a way to prevent you worrying. ~Half on the guage is anywhere from ~70degree's right up to a shade over 100degree's. The guage is decieving, if you look again and judge the position of the needle from the actual H mark you will see it is pretty much spot on 50%. The little line that goes up to 3/4 makes it look more. The skylines also warm up very quick, mine takes no less than 1-2km's.

AVCR Spikes alot? A friend of mine has one on his RB30DET that runs a small rb20det t3/4 highflow thing. That holds boost rock solid without spiking, I was quite impressed how well it works with the lack of spiking. It was setup by the tuner so that may be something.

Nice... Did 13psi hold to peak power?

I would look at an ebc that adusts duty cycle in real or learned time rather one that you simply set a fixed duty cycle. This prevents boost drop on cars with small turbo's. Some off the top of my head are the AVCR and Blitz SBC-iD My rb20det would drop boost to 12.5psi, the blitz sbc-id held what ever boost i dialed in all the way to redline; with a second hand hks ebc that only allowed a set duty cycle to be dialed in, boost tailed off, as did bleeders.

Generally.. Well in this case... Increasing a motors capacity without touching the head will see the power band shift to a lower rpm, the motor will make its peak power earlier and power will drop off harder and quicker than the smaller motor. Not that thats a bad thing as you are only looking at another 400-500cc's. If this were to be a 3ltr under the rb20 head I think the overall performance of the car will suffer due to the lazy less revy motor.