Cubes

AVCR and play with boost levels/rpm to stop it surging.

I understand exactly how it works.. No need to read some of Sk's threads. Everything you have said I have already mentioned in my post. I've said all along there is a 'limit' how far you can push this mod. Running an ITC or even that new Shell 100 crap will help you see just a little more power before hitting R&R as you can run more ignition timing without detonation. I am assuming one would only just be hitting R&R, in this case bumping fuel pressure up slightly and pulling a little more out will work very well. It has in the past. A full ECU is always better.

Ben, You've missed the origional question...... Forget the fact that he's running a stock turbo etc... Mr. rmahnovetsky origionally wanted to know if raising fuel pressure will gain a little more head room in making power without hitting R&R. The answer is YES! Obviously there is a limit to how far you can push this mod, every car is different as we know some R33's hit fuel cut at 10psi on stock ecu, others hit fuel cut at 13psi stock ecu. After all that, If he does decide to push 13psi and still see's R&R with good afr ratios using the safc, to stop R&R his only quick fix option is to 'slightly' bump up the fuel pressure, pull a little more airflow out via the safc. Hopefully pulling it under R&R resulting in a nice smooth power curve with no detonation. Possibly you could drop some Shell 100 stuff in it and by the looks it would be a good comprimise and work well with the increased ign. timing of the lesser load points. This possibly would work nice with a smallish turbo like the GT2530. Should you have a few detonation issues drop an ITC on it or as I said previously try the Shell 100 stuff. All that being said maybe raising fuel pressure safely may not be enough to get around R&R. If thats the case sell all the safc and itc crap for basically what you bought it for second hand and buy a powerfc. I have only heard of this method being used once. It worked for that person and gave them a little more head room with what he had.

Why not just splice the Z32 plug in to the loom. Then drive down there with the RB afm and plug in the z32 once u are there. See the Z32 wiring guide in the tute's section, you will see pics of mine in the pdf.

EDIT: After searching, Ok, so you do have a remapped ecu. I mis-understood your post when you stated disconnecting the battery 'forgets' everything. If I have missunderstood your post and you think resetting the ecu is some how going to gain you performance you are mistaken. The stock ecu doesn't 'learn' or work like that. AFR's, ignition timing will not change. At wot they are set in stone.

lol

Replace Them.

Quite a substantial increase. I'll be using it when its Available in SA.

What do the 66 Prince skylines weigh?

That it was.. I grew up in that area. Awesome area to grow up in. Layed many a black marks around there, when I was younger.

Pics now available.

Item: I have a set of 6 R34 GTR (silver body) Injectors. They have been ultrasonically cleaned, flowed, tested, backflushed (stinky) and then stored. The injectors have been engraved with the number reflecting the flow report. The injectors flowed 480cc. As you can see via the attached report; prior to being cleaned the injectors were already clean as they came from a very low km R34 rb26dett. The top o-ring seals are in extremely good condition, very soft. With the injectors I'm including: - a resistor pack - new male plug with new spade connectors (no need for solder) - and a loopback plug that allows the removal of the resistor pack should you want to reinstall the standard high impedience injectors. Location: Adelaide SA Item Condition: Awesome Reason for Selling: Change of Plans Price and Payment Conditions: $450 for everything including postage. Contact Details: Private message me for contact details.

Interestering you should say that BHDave, The relay is mounted sideways.. Not straight up and down.

Post a mug shot of your self so if we are driving around and see the car we don't go pulling the keys out of the ignition at a set of lights on you.

Be wary of Nozilla Pete... Whats the old saying? Bums to the ground when Nozilla's around? heh Nice Skyline Pete.. I've seen it down south as my oldies live down that way.

I think yours is a freak Zahos.

I ran 2 adjustable tensioners... Adjustables new are so much cheaper than fixed.

You have to find a VG30/R34 turbine housing first. Machining is around $300 from memory. I'm not sure if its suitable, apparently there's a cosworth .7 rear available as well, it may be worth asking your machinist.

At the end of the day you can buy a second hand safc etc and pretty much sell them for what you paid.. I think its worth a play, especially if you are a bit of a fiddler like I.

Indeed, the thought is scary.

Not necessarily retard the timing... It really depends on how it all runs. All we need to do is step under the R&R; the thread starter initially looked at running 14psi, and has suggested that he will run in to R&R. If extra fuel pressure isn't required; great, if it is then look at what I have suggested. This would be a last ditch effort to make more power on the stock ecu. Powerfc cheap or not.. its irrelevant. Obviously this mod will be done on a dyno.. as his origional thread starting post suggested. 2:1 reg may be a little high... especially if running 14-15psi. 40psi base + 30psi -> 70psi. Thats right on the limit. Start at the most simplest/cheap. Try and see.

If its 2:1 grab it..

Ben, IF he hits R&R raising fuel pressure is the ONLY way to scrape in under neath R&R. Hopefully there's enough scope within the SAFC. Or are we talking about 2 different things.

The F1's I ran were good in the wet as far as wet goes but dry was hrmm ok. I honestly found the el cheapo simex to grip better in the dry. Every other area of performance the simex fail. Tramline is when the tyre grabs the 'ruts' in the road and pulls the car to one side or another. I felt it more so under braking.

No.