Cubes

I'm running the larger R34/VG30 turbine housing so this will allow more ignition timing due to less back pressure. I have heard of others having slight knock with the RB25 base map.

My old RB20DET with std ecu running 1bar used to run fairly lean (13:1) through the mid range then go rich at the top end. I suspect with such mods my little rb20det wouldn't have suited the e10 stuff.

The RB30 definitely uses more fuel when you are stuck up it all the time. General driving with a bit of a boot here and there fuel consumption is still 400-430km's per tank. Worse I've seen is 350. At the moment I see load point 16 from around 2400rpm and Z32 AFM voltage of 4.35v. Its not tuned yet but soon. Knock is really good, I've been able to bump up the ignition map to 20-21degree's from 18 I think it was. Knock 40 is o....k... I prefer a max of 30. With mine I've found over ~34, 1 degree more and it will occasionally jump to 50-60+. From memory mine starts to show signs of detonation through unburnt fuel out the rear on the dyno yet not being able to hear it up around 70. I can start to hear ping at knock levels 90+.

Hu? Thats the base map and I was saying to give it a free rev, It runs stupidly rich. Maybe the rb30 sucks so much air on a free rev; one reason I was aking to give it a free rev and see if injectors see 100% duty. Obviously you don't want to be running injectors anywhere near 100% for any duration. Free rev is ok... they are hardly going to have issues hitting 100% for 2ms. --------- Say the R&R does occur at around 4.5v.. Raise fuel pressure, adjust afr's to 12:1... Do this until the afm voltage going to the ecu is just under the 4.5v R&R. Depending on power being made (airflow) you may not be able to adjust enough without causing idle issues. Another better option would be to grab a 2/1 rising rate fuel reg. Instead of raising fuel pressure 1 psi per 1 psi of boost it raises fuel pressure 2 psi per 1 psi of boost, this may help no doubt. Try and see. Those lesser load points now being used contain more ignition timing, pulling some out via the cas won't cause any big drama's. Thinking about it now I would definitely use a 2/1 adj. fuel reg if I were to try this. Using the 2/1 reg leaves the light load and idle area's alone a little more. + an ITC work work very well. I'm thinking not so much about the stock turbo, maybe a highflow thing. I think this could very well work using the bold to crack 240rwkw on a stock ecu. Wouldn't want to run a walbro though.

Interestering.. its kind of related to the thread. Ben, whats the lowest load point you are using? 4.91v I'm guestimating 14-15? Give it a hard free rev.. Mine on the base map hits 100% injector duty over 4000rpm. lol

I think you missunderstood me. It ran as in general running, not full throttle. Starting, idling, moderate throttle etc. Your just a little upset today.. lol

Damn that is smaller than the rb20/vg30 comp wheel. The rb20/vg30 comp wheel measures up as: Inducer - 46mm Exducer - 63mm

Pull the comp cover off. When putting it back on use some lock tight. If the back plate is excessively oily/sludgy and not silver as it should the chances are the turbo is starting to get a little long in the tooth. If its only a bit of oil thats seeped through then clean it and don't worry about it. If it is oil thats seeped through there will be oil in both the compressor cover and turbine housing. While you are there place your ear really close to the turbo, spin the assembly really slowly listening for any crunchy sounds.

If the cars been sitting there upside down some time with oil dripping in via the turbo's oil return (as when the car turns upside down the chances are the oil return will pick up a bit of oil and feed it back to the turbo) then I have no doubt that the oil would seep past the seals and in to the comp and turbine housings. Every turbo I've had I've primed it with oil via the oil return and sat the turbo upside down. Walk in over the next couple of days and I will see oil in the comp and turbine housings.

hrmm.. nice tip. So double looping it is the trick. To get a true reading.

Bad injector atomization can cause sluggish o2 sensor operation. So if you replace the o2 sensor and still have issues at low rpm look at the injectors.

Bugger... Once exams are finished I might look at putting a turbo identification guide together. I have lots of pics now

The yanks have been using blends for quite some time. Only real complain without tuning to suit is slightly down on power and fuel consumption increase.

I've ran 91 octane ULP. It ran exactly the same. The only difference being when you stick your foot in to it, she pings. There's no reason why the car should run badly with an ethanol mix.

RB-30 Power, Roy's power curve is a bit of a freak so it was a bad comparisoon.

Where did you buy it from?

It doesn't damage your actual motor. There's roumers its simply harder on your fuel system. Running toluene would be worse. But.. I have no idea.

Unsure if you know. I dropped the VG30DET turbo on with its .7 something turbine housing. Instantly I was able to run 20-21degree's right the way through, I hadn't tweaked just bumped it up a little, boost is the same. Up from 15-16 degree's its quite a bit.

Thats a RB20/VG30 comp wheel by the looks. Most probably a RB20/VG30 with a RB25 sized comp cover. hence the 45v. Turbine housing looks small.

RB30-Power, Roy's pulls very nicely past 6500rpm with his TD06-20G, nice big maifold stock cams.

hu? Its not a remapped ecu then.

Stock exhaust manifolds will push 300rwkw. All though top end power is influenced by a nice manifold.

It is genuine.

Almost 1000rpm.. Is that really possible? I'm a little sceptical to be honest, 1000rpm is a big jump in spool. Thats the same as increasing displacement by approx 750cc. Exactly what was done to the combustion chamber? This would have no doubt dropped the comp ratio?

VRS kit contains all top end gaskets. Thats head, rocker cover, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, plenum, valve stem seals, cam seals and I've probably missed a few.