Cubes

Just a heads up. Its cheaper to buy the VRS kit than it is to buy just the valve stem seals.. $275 for the VRS kit, $330 for the valve stem seals. lol.

To myself it looks as if the rb20det's in R32's sit higher than the Rb30's in VL's do. It most probably comes down to poor head design as I've known R31's to crack heads also.. However, I put it down to being radiator related... The VL's run crappy copper radiators. Aluminium works better than copper as a radiator.

MonstaS4, What exh. manifold setup are you running? An external gate and high mount?

Interestering... Since I fitted the AP PowerFC the fuel pump constantly runs on high, prior it would run on low at idle then once you touch the accelerator it would run on high. All though prior to the wiring mod I never had it get stuck on while priming.. Only since after the wiring mod. Which makes me suspect the relay, or a small amount of voltage still passing that is activating the relay. The wiring mod was definitely worth wile.. Its much louder as it sounds like its spinning so much harder, it also no longer vibrates the floor pan causing it to be noisy in the car. Now you can only hear the buzz/surge/bubble or what ever type sound it is from the outside once the fuel gets really warm on a hot day with little airflow movement.

Throw it on another well known dyno to see how it rates and what they think of the setup power/boost you are using. Always good to grab a second opinion. What EBC are you using? Its working damn well to hold 19psi.

wow.. 19psi for only 245rwkw.. Hows it feel to drive? 19psi and 245rwkwk.. Maybe the dyno is conservative? The rb turbine is a .6 something, there's no listed specs but thats what they apparently measure up as, the VG30/R34 turbine housings are a .7 something.

.82 GT3040R (GT3082R) would be a quick nice spooler, and still have potential for 300rwkw.

I took a twin turbo Soarer for a spin before I bought the R32. It had done 198,000kms but still drove rather well. It did smoke a little on cold start. It was a little dougy for a fraction of a second but went quite well once up and running. It felt as if the auto would beat the dead stock 5speed R32. It was quite nice to drive, handled well, nice and tight. The only thing I didn't like about them was the digital speedo, kind of looked a little dated for some reason.

90% of the time the relay works as its should. Only occasionally it locks on, unsure if thats still possible with a fused relay? I also observed the relay tends to leak voltage.. The constant feed from the battery see's 0.02v, even with the trigger feeds disconnected.

Space Ghost... Great idea.. I'll give that a shot.. lol So simple.. Next time it does it, I'll jump out with my trusty multimeter and measure the volts running from the ecu. If it is small amounts as the MANWHORE has suggested then its resistor time. If not, new relay.

I paid $150 for a running motor that had the head ripped off and sold. At a wrecker. I found the larger wreckers sold them for $200-$300, the smaller little wreckers only wanted $100-$150. Mine came out of a arse ended VL wagon.

Hi ppls, A little while ago I ran a direct volt feed to my fuel pump. I used a Jaycar 60amp relay. My usual routine is to turn the key to the on positon, wait for the fuel pump to raise fuel pressure then auto turn off, I then start the car. Occasionally the fuel pump stays on and keeps priming and priming and priming. The only way to stop it is to pull the earth from the relay. Is it possible the relay is some how getting stuck? I run the std fuel pump volt feed through the relay then straight to the chassis as its earth. Could this be the problem? Kind of like connecting a negative and positive without anything inbetween using some power?!? big sparks and not good. I'm not that electrically minded so I really am not sure where to start looking?!?

I found my F1's to tramline.

It would explain why every R31 block i've seen at the wreckers were all suitable.

I run Nulon green coolant, that boils at ~124degree's. Also remember the thicker rating of oil is measured at 100degree's. I think most will find..... with the a/c on, a 35+degree day, in peak hour traffic (where you don't move for 5minutes, then move a few places then another 5minutes. ) with ambient temps hitting 50-60degree's your car will most definitely hit around 90-100degree's as mine does. Unless something is completely wrong with mine. Usual peak hour traffic where traffic movement is moving nicely with occasional stops it wont get over 92. With the a/c off it will drop some where around 86.

Oosh, Take it in to peak hour traffic with the a/c on some time... The only way I can think of to tell what the temp is without a digital readout is to jump out and check if the engine over heat fan has came on. It comes on around 90-91degree's. Mine in peak hour traffic (South Road and Marion Road intersection is bad) when not moving with the a/c on will get damn close to 100degree's. As soon as you start moving (even slowly) temps drop down to under 90. Generally 88, once up and moving at a decent rate it drops to 86. That being said if I simply idle the car with the a/c on some where on the street or at my house it will only get 90-92. The road temp of peak hour traffic is a killer.

They alternators regulator is supposed to feed the battery a different charge depending on temperature. Cooler temperatures require more volts, exactly why you will see a higher voltage after you initially start the car, in my case 14.6-14.8v. Once warm it 'should' drop to a shade under 14v. Mine is a solid 13.8v. The regulator is there to 'regulate' the amount of voltage your battery see's. As you increase load through the use of lights, rear demisters etc the regulator adjusts the voltage so that it constantly hangs around what it 'should' be. When these go bung you see under charging or over charging.

It shouldn't be above 14.something volts. 15v no matter what car is too high.

The R32 RB20DET Transmission supports are suitable for the RB30 -> RB20DET/RB25DET gearbox. Hows your little monster coming along Ben? Bu5ter is running 272duration cams in his RB30DET, the same as you I believe?

Not yet.... Soon.

strange.

I doubt the turbo tech is too big for it as my turbo begins to spool at 1200rpm. If loaded up in a high gear from low rpm, all 13psi worth of boost is in before 2000rpm.

But don't you drive soft? Bl4ck32 scared you with his driving didn't he?

Damn. Hopefully it shows up. How long had you owned it for? Where did you buy it?

Definitely need a shroud, DO NOT attach them directly to the radiator as I did. I found in heavy traffic it was fine providing temps were not over 30degree's and or I had the A/C on. Its really not cool spending so much money on thermo fans only to find they don't work correctly. I've known one other to run one of the big 16" davis fans I think it was. That 'apparently' kept the car cool. If doing so, DO NOT skimp out on wiring and cheap supercrap fuse; as I did. Head down to jaycar and pick up some decent gear, 2 x 12" thermo's suck a bit of juice, you want them getting all the volts they can and not making the wire warm to touch.