Cubes

How did it feel when it was going compared to the old det?

I've found the trick with the pfc is to ensure you set idle with the aac valve solanoid disconnected and set the idle as close to to the pfc set idle rpm. The trick is to get it spot on. Then... init the pfc (also a must as it doesn't seem to relearn as well afterwards) and let it do the 30minute idle thing with a/c off then a/c on. The only time I have a slight elevated idle is occasionally with the a/c on, even then it settles to the usual a/c idle rpm within a few secs. But definitely no hunting.. when I had the motor out I cleaned every single little thing.. throttle body, plenum, aac + the cold start idle control i think thats the ICV or something can't remember exactly. I must admit I can't remember any idle hunting while the motor was being run in on the stock ecu. Maybe it wasn't the pfc.. maybe the cleaning?!?

lol...

Which is exactly my point. If I were to choose between the RB20DET head on a 3ltr bottom end or the SOHC head on the 3ltr bottom end I would most definitely go the SOHC head, the money I save doing so I can spend on a mild cam for it.

Using the SAFC in your position is quite a bad thing. If its running rich and you lean it out your telling the ecu there is less air entering the motor to get decent afr's. As a result you shift up on the load map. As you move up the map closer to the idle and light cruise load points the map contains much higher ignition timing. Of which is very very bad for such a high comp motor. The SAFC II monitors knock i believe. The DE will be fine providing the tuning is good. That being no detonation and good afr's. Good luck... Your going to need it without being able to manipulate ign. timing.

No piston oil squirters in the n/a I believe. You could pull the sump off the n/a and double check for us though. Static compression is also much higher, up around the 10.5:1. As its running quite a high static comp it will be very interestering how it goes with the Rb25 turbo. You say you've bolted an external gate on it?!?! The RB25 turbo is internal or have you welded up the internal gate? With such a high static comp ratio it will feel very N/A like, you won't need much boost to make good power but thats pretty much where it ends.. You will be limited with the amount of power you can make. With an rb25 turbo I'm sure you will get close to the 260-270rwhp mark. I would use the cams from the DET head (cams are slightly bigger) and use a pair of adjustable cam gears to dial in some overlap. It will be fine with good tuning and good fuel... Just be sure to keep a close eye on those knock levels via the pfc h/c.

If the new tuner has software he will be able to gain modification rights to the area's he wishes. No need to worry. The lock is simply a check box you select from the software to prevent the h/c from accessing those area's. No password protection or the likes...

I'm happy with the PFC. It sorted the slight idle hunt and slight occasional high idle I used to suffer with the stock ecu.

If the auto did 15.6 I wonder how well the VRX 5speed's go down the 1/4. The one I often drive has no issues pulling away from VN-VS 5ltr auto's. Literally just walks away from them without any effort at all. It is definitely an art getting the 5speed VRX off the line clean.

Consider: RB30ET - 7.8:1 comp running 6-7psi on ULP 91 made 150fwkw. RB20DET - 8.5:1 comp running 9psi on 100RON made 160fwkw. That indicates the RB30 SOHC head flows marginally better than the rb20det twin cam head. The RB20det needs more boost, and higher octane fuel. I also believe the rb20det runs a bigger exhaust from factory. Boost is the restriction placed upon airflow. i.e the head. Ignore rpm as power is rpm * torque / 5252

If you have really thought about this conversion then you would not be here persisting. The head has to be dissasembled, water galley weld and redrill, possibly machine the combustion chamber due to the 2ltrs smaller piston (78mm vs 85), crack test, machined flat, then you start to look at a head rebuild + maybe a little bit of port work. All of which is expensive to and and will see damn close to 2k. You will break even if not be slightly infront dropping an rb25 head on it, you will have far better performance, spread of power and reliability. Give the Rb25 head a freshen up and you will break even.

The Safe and Sound Compaq fits in the rear of the skylines. http://www.britax.com.au/snsProductDetail....64&trimId=40566

Still... grab a before and after. Will be interestering to note the off boost power difference. If any.

Try it let us know how you go. You have been told its a crap setup and will not rev nicely. The RB25 head flows much much better than the rb20det head. I picked up 12rwkw with 6psi less boost. Japanesemotor sport has a blown rb25det motor available for $900.

A heads up for those looking for an RB25 head. Japanese motorsport has a long motor. # 1x R33 GTST RB25DET motor only suit rebuild but complete rocker cover to sump $900 http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/engines.htm

AP Engineering states 260cc's. May get one flow tested, I recently had gtr injectors flowed, at 100% duty - 480cc.

It really depends what ATS are doing with their highflows now. ATS in adelaide recently told me they do the gt30 core in rb25 housings etc.. Thats pretty much what GCG and horesepowerinabox do. When you start trying to play with t3/4 things thats were I know ats failed..

Try to do a before and after run taking note of the amount ignition timing u are able to run at wot. It would be very interestering to see.

Twin xr6 turbo's on a 4.5 litre will see decent boost by maybe 5500rpm..

Its theoretically impossible to get a 'genuine' 220rwkw (~270-280fwkw or 361hp) out of 260cc injectors on stock fuel pressure.

Only the Series 1 Rb25DET compressor wheel is metal. The series 2 is the same as the R34 being 'plastic' or polypropelene as you said. So becarefull with the identification, an R33 Series 2 turbo will look like the r34 turbo but has the smaller turbine housing. I assume nissan went the larger turbine housing on the R34 due to its neo variable cam timing. Obviously improving low end torque and turbo spool, as a result a larger turbine can be used with no ill effects. I was thinking the other day.. Say the bearings went, the compressor wheel smashed in to the housing, if it were the plastic wheel would the plastic shavings do less damage to the motor or possibly none? The metal compressor wheel, your poor motor has no chance in hell, metal bits entering the motor is an instant bore score and compression loss. That being said I think the best turbo for the rb20det will be the R33 series 1 with the smaller turbine housing to help the mid range. Maybe look at the series 2 with the plastic wheel to help spool on the 2ltr. No matter what your going to need some decent boost in the rb20det to get it making decent power. Especially with the power sapping auto. 14psi with an rb25 turbo and tuned ecu should see 190rwkw with a manual. Being an auto.. pull what? maybe 15rwkw off it?

And they cost another 1.5-2k on top of the turbo for wastegate and manifold.

Your best bet is the R34 GTT Turbo. Its the largest of all turbo's. The VG30DET turbo is a Rb20DET turbo with a larger RB25 sized comp cover and larger R34 sized turbine housing. Meaning if you bolt the larger comp and turbine housings on to a RB20DET turbo it will be EXACTLY the same as a VG30DET BB turbo. The R33 runs the smaller rb20 style turbine housing, from what I've measured the rb20 series 2 and R33 rb25 turbine housings are the same size. Only difference being the compressor and cover is larger with the rb25 unit. The R34 and VG30DET BB turbo's run the same turbine housing. 'OP6'

Mine were hitting 92% at 176rwkw to hold a 12:1 afr with a stock afr and bosch pump.

You do get what you pay for. If you decide to cheap out and go a plain bush bearing highflow then it will set you back around 1k, you will see roughly the same power as the gcg highflow IF the bloke knows what he is doing and has experience with the rb's. In other words, he knows his limitations. Bush turbo's don't last as long as BB turbo's. Expect half the BB's life if pushed hard.