Cubes

I am starting to wish I bought a R32 4door GTS4. Drop my RB30 in that.

No doubt the muffer has helped. My stock GTST dead stock everything made 115rwkw (154rwhp), a little tweak of the afr's (fuel pressure bleed) made 125rwkw (167rwhp). This was on 95ron premium as at the time 98 ron was rare. A full exhaust it made 140rwkw (187rwhp) but on a different dyno. A full exhaust 1.5psi extra (up to 12.5psi) and it made 152rwkw (203rwhp) . FMIC and external bosh pump it made 164rwkw (219rwhp) on 15psi with a fuel pressure bleeder as it was running too rich and killing power. With 164rwhp it was fairly quick, quite a nice setup to be honest, it would launch 0-100 in around 5.2secs consistently with no wheel spin, which went on to see 175km/h in 13secs. Start pushing more power and it began loosing traction, with not so consistent 0-100times.

I spoke to the bloke. He freaked out at me stating the R33 RB25's do indeed have air temp sensors and he was putting in some ebay thing where he reports me... meh.... Everyone should drop him an email stating R33 RB25's do not have air intake temp sensors, this is what your mechanic has said... something along those lines. I hate ebayers that don't have a clue what they are selling.

TIMMMAYYY, Any chance of some larger pics of that turbine? Looks interestering.

Keep an eye out for R33 GTR N1 injectors, they too are 555cc's. I've only ever seen 2 sets for sale.

Yep.. Its quite common. Nismo sell reinforced replacements for the R33's and R34's. Bl4ck32 has had his go with his OS Twin plate, what scares me is the OS was lighter than my 9puk 1tonne thing. I've ran a 800kg organic, it was a little heavier than stock and not too bad, this 1tonne thing is like a dead weight. Heavy sucker, my other half doesn't like driving it. I found the problem with organics is after a hard launch they tend to get hot a slip a little, I would launch at 4000rpm in first, click second and find second would some times slip depending how aggressive my launch was. The ceramic on the other hand simply holds on and isn't affected by heat as much. I paid $600 all up for mine. If you do go ceramic be prepared to replace your flywheel next clutch replacement. Grab an xtreem lightened thing with a replaceable insert.

The 5puk would handle more power with the same pressure plate than say a 9puk. Same goes for a 3puk vs 5puk. Obviously as you lessen the puks you also lessen drivability. My 9puk is quite grabby and often chirps in first, especially when trying to reverse etc. I would be interestered to see if the 5puk was much worse than mine. BUT I am running a stock flywheel, its well known the stock flywheels to be softer as a result more grabby than a molly item.

Stagea 260RS + R34 front end.

I run the 9puk xtreme 1060kg pressure. If I were making under 250rwkw I would go the 860kg pressure plate. The poor old pedal box flex's a bit with the 1060kg pressure, one day it will pop.

My IC is ~450 wide, but 100mm deep and apparently handles 580hp worth of air. It is bar/plate though.

Very nice... I had toyed with the idea but considered it too dangerous, would be awesome fun though.

Why wouldn't you be able to? Have a read of the RB30 thread.

If your getting a spike at 6000rpm during accelerating them its not the boost controller. Its something else. The ball/spring type boost controller will only cause spikes when you initially jump on the throttle and it boosts up really quick, slightly overshooting the mark. The other time it will spike is when peak boost is made while accelerating from a low rpm. Allthough not as common or noticable as jumping on the throttle and have it instantly hit boost at higher rpm. I've had 3 types of manual boost controllers. The $22 boost controller, a ball/spring/bleeder and a simple bleeder all did the above. For $22 the manual boost controller being sold works just as good as the others being sold for $100 odd. A friend tried mine and said it was better than his GFB boost controller.

Don't waste your time with the dohc rb20 head on the 3ltr. It will feel like a diesel to drive, not fun. If you don't know how a turbo diesel feels take a patrol 3.0tdi for a drive, its a good indication of how it will feel. Lots of mid range, it will rev but not make power. Grab a 32 rb25 head, they look exactly the same as the rb20, plenum and all.

My car stays hot almost 3/4 of the day, it never cools down quickly UNLESS its a 10degree day. Feel isn't a good way of telling... First the temp guages, then if it is too hot you will most definitely smell it. If its running too hot you will also hear the overflow bottle bubble violently a few seconds after you turn the car off, it also may loose coolant from the overflow bottle. If it is doing this then it is getting too hot, I would first look at the clutch fan, thermostat (while you are there check the waterpump), then radiator. The stock guage reads half from ~72degree's right up to just over 100degree's. Then it quickly climbs to H.

Depends how much wire you have available. I think the best position is where it fits up on the R30's. Behind the left strut tower right next to the loom. You could find somewhere else but its best to keep it away from water.

opps.

I recently had my GTR injectors flowed. Base fuel pressure set was 40psi. @ 100% duty they flowed 474-480cc @ 80% duty they flowed 384-390cc. So theoretically, say the GTST injectors are 270cc's. 270cc's * 0.8 = 216cc (80% duty). Isn't the old rule of injectors 1 cc per hp. 216hp. Or is that 1cc per hp based on 100% duty flow i.e 270cc @ 100% duty makes 270hp at 80%duty. Kind of messy but hope it makes sense. Stock RB20DET running 14psi with a tuned ecu (PFC) on the dyno's I run on generally make spot on 170rwkw.

Sounds good. Those 400R bars have never been my thing.. They look a little out there for my liking. I personally think there's nothing better to look at than a non-kitted R33 slightly lowered sitting on a set of deep dish rims. They look fat.. Start throwing on the body kits I think it tends to ruin them..

Mine were hitting 92% duty for 176rwkw. Keep reving it past peak power and it required 100% duty to hold a 12:1 AFR. They were slightly dirty as cold starts would see it stumble slightly. Depends how happy the dyno is if you make 220kw with std injectors. All though at the dyno day there was an R32 running stock ecu, stock airboox, exhaust, fmic, HKS GT2530 @ 1bar. That made 178rwkw. Unsure if injectors were at their maximum, it now requires an FCD to make more power.

Wait and see how it is with the bigish turbo. If need be maybe consider a mild stally. Definitely will get it off the line quicker.

Whats causing the setup now to spool slightly earlier? manifold?

No solenoid on the 32's. A basic setup using 1 hse.

Does the bleeder have boost coming on slightly quicker than the ebc Freebaggin?

NA cams are less aggressive, they will give you a little more low end torque.