Cubes

The std head gasket is fine. Generally ppls use them and do the O-ring thing. If I were to do it I would most probably go a Tomei Headgasket and use its oil restrictors, slap them in the block while I'm at it. If this Cometic headgasketever starts seeping water thats the route I will go. Whats the final power goals.... Generally the only reason ppls use a different headgasket or oring setup is under high combustion pressures (i.e lots of boost and lots of power) its possible to squeeze some of that combustion pressure past the gasket and in to the water gallerys.

Aussy delivered R31 GTS runs an oil cooler. As rare as hens teeth though.

Too high. Over 45-50 and I would be worried.

Sounds as if u are on the right track. I have yet to try the plenum feed.

I will be... It will be pretty much around xmas day that it gets done as I will be working quite a bit during the holidays. Hopefully get the turbo on, diff sorted, and subframe bushes + a few front end bushes that need doing. First things first though.. bigger turbo.. priorities. Even if it doesn't hook up due to the crap stock diff.. lol

GTST Cams run 7.8mm lift. Off the top of my head the GTR's are 8.5mm's or something.

The RB30 is nice but it also requires a nice manifold and decent sized turbo to prevent the top end nosing over. It is nice though... I'm able to accelerate off the lights from idle and have it accelerate as hard from idle as a stockish (exhaust) LS1 Manual. Unsure if the edited ones have any more balls off idle or not. So its definitely got some torque. Wheelspin is a big issue for me at the moment, I put it down to worn subframe bushes causing axle tramp and a half stuffed diff that doesn't completely lock up, probably also causing part of the axle tramp. God help it once its nudging 280. Sky30's definitely sounds awesome on the dyno, I wouldn't mind grabbing either an audio file or small vid clip off some one at some time.

Sky30's Dyno Sheet.

No FMIC? Its common for the R32's to drop boost. I fitted an EBC that learns the boost curve and adjusts duty cycle to achieve the desired boost level. This had the turbo holding boost. BUT from 12.5psi to 15psi it only picked up 10rwkw. Obviously the turbo was in to choke and out of efficiency. One reason why the turbo was most probably dropping boost. I later removed the EBC and elongated the wastegate actuator holes, this allowed me to pull the actuator away from the turbo essentially reducing the amount of travel the wastegate has. This increases boost and was able to hold 16psi to redline. It worked well on the rb20det. However, now on the rb30det it makes zero difference, it will not hold any more than 8-9psi at peak power. However it did make good peak power on that boost level, once again that indicates its all about airflow not boost.

Looks quite good... Makes 10psi nice and early also. What was it rev'd to? 8000rpm?

Keep the cooling system maintained and topped up and it will run forever. Run the overflow low and get air in the head and it will eventually crack when it experiences a flogging or hot day. Check the clutch fan is working correctly. You will hear it roar up first thing in the morning, then 15seconds later it will go quiet. When stuffed they 'generally' don't engage completely or nothing at all. Clutch for the fan is around $140. Shop around at different auto shops, the price vary's considerably. Get the trans serviced ~$75. The diff's can be a little whiney, nothing to worry about. A couple large tubes of Nulon G70 will quieten it down. Brake inspection and fluid change. Should be a good reliable car then.

Thats two ppls I know of in a short period of time that have been supplied the wrong turbo when asking for a VG30DET turbo.

The Rb20/25 exh. ports are the same size, only differece between the two is the rb20 valves are 'slightly' smaller. Nothing like the size difference between the inlet valves, the 20's inlet valves look like baby's compared to the rb25's.

What highfow did you go deluxe?

Whats YR?

The .64 is fine for the rb20. Ppls here in SA are running a .63 on their RB25's and making slightly over 300rwkw.

I say find a tinny turbo and bolt it on. These holidays i'm practice my welding skills, hopefully make a dump pipe and 'maybe' a manifold.

Does it smoke up?

No time at the moment for wheel speed calcs. Shouldn't be too far off as its only a 3.9:1 ratio, unlike Natho's 3.45:1, his run finished at 5100rpm. Definitely looks strange how the run starts at 100km/h. What RPM was your run started at? But it should be all road/roller speed related, every one drop their car in 4th and accelerate away.

The only dyno runs that were not done on the day were Bl4ck32's and mine. I mainly put them in there for a comparison to Sky30's, how much of a difference the small stocker turbo's make to a 3ltr running a GT35R .82. The wheel speed is always incorrect.. But what I do think has been modified since Bl4ck32 and I ran on the dyno is the wheel speed/roller calibration. As I know 100% at 2000rpm mine was making 100rwkw. Can you post up or pm me the first dyno run? I'm keen to see how the power curve looks. I had mine ran in v8 mode on D&T's dyno, the power curve resembled the lump style power curve of your second run.

3700rpm and 219rwkw sounds nice for 16psi. Hows the boost transition? Light switch like or progressive? Get that dyno chart up, one with a boost curve.

Running 235/40/18's would act as if you had an ever so slightly higher diff ratio, so your top speed vs rpm will be higher than the others, as a result also your down low power will be down. A good example of this is Natho's VLT, that runs a 3.45:1 diff ratio and the dyno stopped at 5100rpm yet his wheel speed is up there. I think its wrong to compare bl4ck32 and my dyno's on the chart I posted prior. Something is just wrong with the speed vs rpm, possibly shaun fiddled with the wheel speed calibration. Don't know.

With the stock RB20DET turbo it was very restrictive, peak torque saw 17degree's at 2000-2400rpm, it made peak power with 15degrees. The slightly larger turbo is fine with 18-19 degrees maybe more, its yet to be tuned.

I believe u made 218rwkw. I need a dyno run printout to be able to dial in all the numbers so the graph looks right as no doubt you have picked up mid range as well. Sky30, Bl4ck32 was running 1bar, I was running stock rb20det actuator, i.e no boost control, boost would spike up to 12psi at ~2000rpm then tail off to 9psi by 4000rpm where it would go on to make peak power. 60km/h is approx 2200rpm. Its strange as if that is the case then 160km/h is only ~5900rpm. <scratches head> I am going to need every ones tyre sizes to apply a correction. Not to forget the diff ratio correction for both Natho's and the R33's slightly higher 4.11:1. As I said prior, if your keen to compare off boost ignition maps i'm keen to do so. Depending how much works gone in to your maps you may pick a little off boost torque up.

I haven't done any diff ratio calcs to make it an even playing field for the VLT. When I get some more time I'll throw in all of the results I have.. I would like to see Sky30's off boost ignition map.. I am curious if there's much left in it or how it compares to the PFC ign map Bl4ck32 and I are running.