Cubes

Take it back and appear as pissed off as you can be.. Get them to unlock the map so you can pull a degree of timing out here or there.

My pump being 3years old is probably not helping its noise, i can't hear it at all in the car now, only outside. But it is still noisy outside, not a bad noise, a tinny bit louder than a V8 VS fuel pump. By grounding the pump to the chassis I picked up half a volt, use the supplied loom ground and it was half a volt lower.

The R32's do have variable speed pump control. As soon as you touch the accelerator the pump receives the full voltage. However, the AP Engineering PFC bypasses the variable speed control. The PFC has the pump running at full speed all the time. I had tested the fuel pump voltage at idle, stationary with rev's and under load on boost. Voltage hardly varied, 11.2v being the peak.

wow.. 120rwkw.. mine was making that by what.. 2500rpm.. heheh Sky30, if you can pleeassse.. Scan and post your dyno run. I'm keen to overlay it with Bl4ck32's and Mine to see how that GT35R makes its power.

Exactly as Meggala states. Our recent dyno day had a few cars up around the 300rwkw mark. Their complaint was.. traction. One said, its quite dissapointing on the street, no traction until 4th gear. The car was setup with rather hard suspension and no pinneapples, and.. it was a rb30/25, torque kills traction. I thought the linear nature of the rb30 would help traction. I was wrong.

Interestering.. It does sound correct, idle it around in traffic and I hear the noise, throw some nice new cool fuel in and it goes away, or go for a long drive at a constant speed and the noise goes away. Feeling the pump it does feel like its vibrating quite a bit, makes my hand numb holding the pump while its operating.

Well thats it.... 1/4 times don't lie. Typing your numbers in to a 1/4 calc it states your uncorrected hp is 406hp. From memory the LS1's loose roughly 61rwkw. Thats 241rwkw. Close enough.

I do still prefer the PFC. It has knock monitoring.. Which is my friend.

Is it knocking just as boost hits? I find with mine when boost initially hits it drops to say load point 16 for one rpm cell then levels out to load point 15 once accelerating through the rpm. If the values in load point 16 are either too lean or too much ign timing it will tend to get a bit of knock, this is only seen in mine when I drop it back to third at a higher rpm and punch it. Bring it up through the rpm smoothly as it does on the dyno and it is fine. Do a map trace, press the next button and it will highlight all map points used. Then you go in to the ign map and check out what the values are. If he's locked the map then I would be pissed as, I had to make a few little on road changes to my tune as it was doing as I said above.

I was curious how Chops went once he ran in the v8 shootout mode. I wonder whats up with these shootout modes, would the turbo's also read higher in the v8 shootout mode? or is the only difference the ramp rate to help prevent wheel spin when the turbo comes on.?!?

whoohooo.. The pump noise no longer vibrates in the car. It is damn loud outside the car with its gurgling/surging noise once the fuel heats up, just can't be heard inside the car.

The new microtech plug in is worth looking at. They now have closed loop. Very attractive indeed. If your looking for 300 to say 330rwkw then stick with prepped std rods providing the car is a streeter, if its anything more than a streeter I would not look past a set of decent rods. Run good bearings and u will be fine.

I had a play tonight. 10psi, uses load point 15 on the map. 12psi... Still uses load point 15 on the map. 13psi.. Load point 16. 12 & 13 psi was able to take 18degree's where as 10psi was able to take 20. That definitely tells me that for minimal boost changes you must have the car tuned to suit, you as I, may find you can dial in some more ign. timing at the lower boost level. If the tuner has done their job correctly, it still won't be optimal. UNLESS you are lucky the lower boost level you have chosen uses a different load point and has been tuned accordingly, OR your running an autotronic/motec with a 40x40 map, allowing a much higher/finer resolution. The PFC's tend to have a nice fine resolution up until wot when running some decent boost, then they tend to become a little coarse. I'm unsure if the PFC calcs the cells around it to derive a part cell value. i.e Load point 19 runs 20degree's Load point 20 runs 18degree's. You really use half of load point 19's airflow so it does a calc and throws in 19degree's. If that makes sense.

57 Boothby Street, Panorama. They are in the process of setting up a web site, far from complete. http://www.boostworx.com.au/contact.htm

Awesome turnout today. That Stanza was very nice to look at.. Just had to watch Jordan wasn't sucked up the compressor as it was up on boost. Can ppls post up their a scanned copy of their dyno sheet. Would be very interestering to compare figures at certian rpms.

You probably had no one answer you as we were all down the dyno day held @ Boostworx. Some nice cars there making some seriously ear to ear grin power. Definitely sounds like a dud cas. Either that or who ever replaced the cam belt buggered up the cam timing. Base timing should be 15degrees.

Boostworx are good and they don't charge the earth.

The stock wiring definitely has issues coping with 2 fuel pumps, I still have the intank and the external. Driving today, the surging gurgling sound is still there, feeling the fuel pump it makes your hand numb.

Exactly my point, if he's getting knock from a slight spike well......... Spiking and knock due to mid range rpm WOT, suggests the tuner did not do his job.

The problem with having it tuned for say 13-14psi is that if you drop it back to 11-12psi chances are the tune is not going to be optimal as the tune isn't suited to that boost level.

I recently checked the voltage my fuel pumps were receiving. Voltages were consistently around 11.2v's. I zipped down to Jaycar and picked up.... 8GA OFC Red Power Cable x 6m 8GA OFC Black Power Cable x 1m FuseHolder x 1 5AG 30AMP Fuse x 2 60amp Horn Relay x 1 (Nice big terminals to suit the 8GA cable and its spade connectors) Red/Black Large Eye Terminals for 8GA x 1 Yellow 5.3mm Insulated Eye Terminal x 1 Yellow Large Insulated Spades x 1 Blue 6.4mm Insulated Spades x 1 Thats about it off the top of my head. Basically, ran the red wire from the engine bay to the boot, placed the fuse inline then ran the wire to the relay, chopped the 12v feed to the fuel pump shoved a connector on the end of it and connected it to the relay, earthed the relay so that it can earth. lol, ran the new 12v feed from the relay to the fuel pumps. Earthed the fuel pump neg directly to the chassis. Instantly I noticed the external fuel pump sounds angry as it buzzes away. Measured voltage, 13.8v, exactly whats at the battery. The priming also sounds much more agressive, the fuel pump is definitely louder outside the car and sounds as if its spinning much faster, inside you can hardly hear it. The warm weather will be interestering, it usually makes loud surging vibrating noises when it gets hot in traffic. I'm hoping this will help stop that some how, hopefully it doesn't make it worse.

I havent been done speeding in the last 5 years or 170,000kms

Puss... Such a descriptive word.

Is the focus going to be fwd though? Its specs aren't released yet, hopefully they throw 4wd in to it. Definitely stirr up the competition. Not that it would be my type of car.

Mafia, I found the same thing, upon fitting the larger turbo it has free'd up the bottom end, feels freeier and tends to free rev quiker also. More off the line let the clutch out torque. What I meant by N/A like, so its not linear then? lags a little then hits solid and pulls?