Cubes

Tend to ignore the compressor housing as all the R33+ turbo's have 45v something. There is no relevance using the compressor housing markings.

Its all good. I can't hammer it anyway as it needs to be tuned.

siksII, What was stamped on the turbine housing? OP6?

Thats all good then.. Just a well designed muffler. I've got a rather larger (as big as will fit) aussy straight through muffler on the end of mine with a resy in the middle. It was fairly quiet with the stock turbo on it, since I bolted up the new turbo with a slightly larger turbine housing it has got a little louder. Should also mention mildsteel is quieter and less drony than s/steel. Offtopic lol

All are ball bearing, as all have ceramic turbines. The R34 also having the 'plastic' compressor wheel. I think the R33 SII also had a 'plastic' compressor wheel, unsure if it has the larger R34 turbine housing though.

Check the internal design of the muffler, some jap mufflers I've seen tend to taper down to a smaller size than the entering and exiting pipe, as a result its a quiet muffler. It may also be quiet as it may have a center muffler.

Justin, thats another setting that the pfc h/c or datalogit cannot access. Idle ignition. Apparently the value can't be read, only written. The RB25 and RB20 default idle ignition value is 15degree's. The PFC also stabilises ignition timing by the use of the stepper motor and by rocking ignition timing.

Bovs are there to aid drivability and some state, reliability.

lol. Roll down a hill and turn the ignition off, be sure not to have your steering lock up. Tell me if the exhaust still has noise. On deceleration, a car that has deceleration fuel cut sounds different to a car that doesn't have it.

Then once its out of closed loop due to heavier acceleration have it tuned to stoich afr's until it see's zero vacuum. My view is no point having a high performance car if it sucks so much juice you can't afford to drive it every day. One reason I sold the V8 and bought a small turbo 6.

Exactly. All modern ecu's contain this requirement as its required for emissions.

The PFC and stock ECU does cut fuel on deceleration to conserve fuel. One good reason to use lots of time decelerating, also saves your brakes. You will notice in the rev/idle menu of the pfc there is 2 options that allow you to set the fuel cut return rpm. The RB20det's are typically set of 850rpm a/c off 950rpm a/c on.

Octane boost won't raise it enough. Octane boost really is a scam.

While the car is off the road maybe he should invest a little money into a defensive drivers course. Learn how to control a car. Maybe thats not such a good thing. hrmm.

WOW.. No ECU or BOOST?? Did you slap a carby (as you had no ecu) on it and front mount to cool that intake temp using the chill affect that occurs when you are going really fast?

Hi ppls, Browsing the NGK web site I noticed they now list oxygen sensors for the R32 GTR and R33 GTST Skylines. NISSAN Skyline R32 06/91 - 03/9 2.6L RB26DETT 6cyl DOHC Rear - OTD2F-P1P NISSAN Skyline R33 1993 - 1998 2.5L RB25DET - OZA395-E2 EDIT: Stupid. I should have posted this in the maint. section.

The R34 turbo I had in my grubby hands a little while ago had a black nylon compressor wheel and the turbine housing had stamped OP6 in 2 places. The width of the turbine housing behind the first turbine housing to chra bolt located just after the T3 flange was 50mm. I've attached a pic where to measure. 21U I am 80% sure that is a R33 turbine housing, that is slightly smaller than the R34 turbine housing I had.

Hi ppls, I decided to slap $35 BP ULP in tonight as I hit the red. I've always wanted to see for my self exactly how much ignition timing differs between ULP and BP98. Light to moderate throttle with ~7psi knock was no different. A little more throttle and 10psi at peak torque I had to pull 6 degree's of ignition timing, the rest was 5 degree's. Quite a large pull of ignition timing, I was expecting maybe 3degree's. Not 6!! Most definitely not worth the extra $5-$6 it costs to fill with BP98 over ULP. Limpity limp for me until $35 worth of fuel is gone.

Lag is subjective, a car that doesn't really get moving until 4500rpm I would consider laggy. Mine had good boost at around 4k and pulled well but didn't really start to pull nice and hard (rush) until 5.5k. If the car is in good nick I wouldn't not buy it because of the vg30 turbo, I would still definitely buy the car, sell the turbo and buy a r33 rb25det turbo. Have the ecu tuned and be happy with 190rwkw.

Thats right Cerbera, Say you push 10psi through it, the wastegate may very well have the ability to bypass enough exhaust gas to hold 10psi, 12psi may be ok then all of a sudden at 13-14psi you find it wants to creep. That dump pipe you are running is crapo though.

The only difference between the two looms (being an r32 without vct) is the inlet air temp sensor addition. After all all you need to do is route the existing loom plugs to the new rb26dett locations. Not too hard at all.

Definitely a bit of a bugger. Ahh well there's always the next rb30 when this one throws a rod out the side of its block. lol

There's much more to power than just peak power. The VG30DET turbo has much less 'average' power. It will accelerate slower on the street. It also feels like it makes next to no boost in first gear, click second then it makes some decent boost. My assumption was the turbine housing was simply too big for the compressor match on a 2ltr. On the RB30DET its great, spools really quick and feels as if it has quite a bit more mid range and top end. I've had a VG30DET turbo on a rb20det and on the street it was not fun, power delivery came on very very smooth at around 4k, by 5.5-6k it started to get up and go, then I was changing at 7-7.5k. I put the rb20det turbo back on pushed 1bar through it and it was much quicker on the street than the vg30det turbo. I had the rb20det turbo holding boost to redline, it didn't feel sluggy up top and pulled all the way to just over 7000rpm where I would change gear. Without it holding boost it felt as if she was begging me to change up at around 6500rpm. I've been in a rb25det turbo equiped rb20det, it was a perfect match. Slightly larger turbine to help it rev to 7.5k easier + the added bonus of a larger compressor wheel to deliver more airflow. Don't mess with the VG30DET turbo for an extra $100 or so you can pick up a rb25det turbo from the forums here. I picked my vg30det up for $350 from sau, I've seen rb25det turbo's going for $400 on sau. I didn't want a rb25det turbo as the turbine housing is too small for the 3ltr. I wanted as large as possible to extend the higher rpm peak power. Its worked quite well on the 3ltr.

They can be picked up for quite a bit cheaper these days. The same place I looked at 3years ago when buying my rb25 head who wanted 2.5k had one for 1.6k including all manifolds etc.

How did it make it better when you said prior it was creeping to 1bar now it is creeping to 20psi?