Cubes

Keeping on the throttle for long periods of time is what creates high heat; that and poor tuning (retarded ign. timing and lean afrs) Fit a highlow you will find it a novelty, after a couple of weeks you will leave it on high and use your foot to control boost. Controlling boost with the right foot is a very easy thing to do, especially with the rb20det as its a little sluggy to make decent boost. i.e 3000-3500rpm and a decent amount of throttle.

lol.. Use your foot, its not like the rb20det is known for its early boost build. For the track you would want it the other way around. Less boost for the track, more for the street. Having a higher boost on the street is much much safer and creates much less heat than the lower boost would at the track.

So what your saying is a stock R33 GTST looses around 90kw going to the back wheels? Once again, dyno's differ, especially different brands. My R32 GTST making 160fwkw dead stock made 110rwkw. Exhaust, fmic and boost it jumped to 164rwkw. I had the car on 3 different but same brand dyno's. One varied -10rwkw, it was on a 35degree day though. 85-90rwkw for 185fwkw is unrealistic. My old N/A VLmade 80rwkw on an old school dyno that had a big clock and needle looking thing that gave the power readout.

Thats the fun of it. Watching others run their cars and see how it compares to your own.

I had this problem. Injectors are clagged. You will also find if you try and give it a quick stab of the throttle it will stumble and not rev up as it should. If you drive it immediately after you start it you will feel a nasty flat spot on the accelerator. Once the injectors and fuel warm a little the fuel atomizes better, which is why once its warm it feels ok. I still found mine had a real slight flat spot on the tip of the accelerator, i.e limping around a car park with really really light throttle it could be felt.

Deluxe, To compare torque figures the only way would be to run on Shauns dyno. Other than that the only other use for the torque figure is when tuning, dial a degree in and you can see that section of map increase torque. You should throw it on $25 is bugger all.

I'm sure many will enjoy these two clips from the 1990 Bathurst. Its a pitty they only ran one GTR in 1990.

That explains the high/different torque. Throw it on a DD Dyno and it will read lower. Good to see all the peaks are in the same place though. Are you coming to the dyno day?

Its not tuned yet so I am unsure. I'm however expecting a gain of around 20-30rwkw (~200rwkw) with peak power extended close to 6000rpm, the rb20det turbo with its small turbine housing had power reaching its peak and flattening out at 4400rpm then nosing over after 4900rpm. It wasn't much fun. I initially bought the VG30DET in anticipation of having it machined to suit a GT30R -12 CHRA with the .6 comp cover. This would make around 280rwkw possibly 300rwkw. There is apparently a -14 that is simply a GT30R -12 with a GT35R compressor wheel. This 'may' surge on the 2.5ltr, it should be fine on the 3ltr. Having the 3ltr I'm going to jump in and give the xr6t turbo a shot as it should be all in by ~3800rpm (the same as a VG30 Highflow on a 2.5ltr) and making some nice boost 8-10psi by 3000rpm. The 3ltrs really need a big turbine to make use of the DOHC head. The XR6T turbo I think is a really bad match to the RB30ET SOHC. They spool the same ~3800rpm then makes its peak power around 4200rpm, flattens out then noses over.

Hi ppls, I've recently dropped a VG30DET turbo on my RB30DET to keep me happy until xmas. I've just measured up the VG30DET and old S2 R32 RB20DET BB Turbo. It appears the VG30DET and RB20DET S2 turbo's have an IDENTICAL compressor wheel. Inducer - 46mm Exducer - 63mm The only difference between the two turbo's is the vg30's larger turbine and compressor cover. The VG30DET turbo has smoothed out spool, increased bottom end off boost torque and made the car feel like a turbo car again, that being where the top end rushes, not dies off as the rb20det turbo did. Hope you found it interesting, more so disappointing, I did.

I've got SVCD copys, 1990-1992. Suprisingly the GTR is the same pace around the corners as the v8's etc. BUT on the straights it simply blows the competition away. The quality doesn't look the best on the monitor but looks good on TV. Its VHS quality. You could suck them down from me if you want. I only have 25k available but its good enough.

Its only good comparing cars on the same dyno. i.e mine, Bl4ck32's and Sambo33's. Care to post your dyno sheet Deluxe? Chances are yours was run in 3rd to achieve a torque reading as such. OR shootout mode played funny buggers with it.

VCT is variable cam timing. Its not completely variable, it switches on around 5000rpm and increases cam overlap. VCT turning on is the lump (increase) in torque you see between 120 and 140km/h. Without VCT you try to find the happy medium. I've left my cam timing the N/A standard which is 8degree's overlap. The rb20 turbo cams run zero degree overlap through the whole rev range, rb25dets run 0 degree overlap on idle then something like 4degree's over 5000rpm. Apparently if you disconnect VCT so that its always on the car cams over quite a bit. I think thats how it is. Feel free to correct me on the minor details. EDIT: Just out of your possible curiosity, Bl4ck32's RB30DET making 200rwkw made 380Nm of torque and made peak power by 5000rpm or ~132km/h. The biggest difference is 55rwkw at 100km/h. Bl4ck32's was making 170rwkw, yours ~115rwkw. Exactly why you need more torque to make power at lower rpms.

It doesn't fit easily, major head mods are required.

Torque figures are fine. Power = Torque x rpm / 5252 Drop it back to third and torque will be up around 400Nm. I'll be throwing mine on the dyno with the vg30det turbo (smaller comp wheel but larger turbine housing), it shall be interestering to compare figures. How close the vct gets a 2.5ltr to a nonvct 3ltr.

What size turbine housing? Very nice complete setup.

And mods are?

mr_rbman, I would bolt up the head, waterpump, oil pump and crank cambelt drive gear. This is so the engine builder can mock up the location to ensure the belt is tight enough and the cam belt covers fit. Sump, thats up to you, it really doesn't matter if its there or not. Leave the harmonic balancer off.

I'm really curious as to why these horsepowerinabox/gcg style gt30's don't run the 6blade gt30 core with the .6 comp cover. I'm thinking possibly GCG ran in to surge issues with the higher flowing 6blade gt30 comp?!? I'm remembering back to GCG's 500hp bolt ons and the surge issues they had?!?

Did you manage to take a few pics R33_racer? I'll throw it in the guide if so.

That is indeed a typical valve stem seal sign. I've seen quite a few rb20's where their valve stem seals are shot. My old rb20det used to blow a couple puffs of smoke just before a gear change after a cold start up, after that it was clean. The valve stem seals were a little leaky.

Its rather difficult to measure a turbine housing UNLESS its cut up.

hrmm.. When I went to the wreckers and measured up the EL thermo's they were pretty much spot on. They cleared the pwr steer/ac stuff also. They also had AU fans that are much thicker, the EL's look amazingly thin.

With regards to the turbine housing size of the vg30. I've been speaking to ATS here in Adelaide, he said there are no documented specs on the RB20/25DET and VG30DET turbine housing. He has measured up the VG30DET turbine housing and said it is some where around the .72 size. The RB25det turbine housing on the other hand is a .6 something, not a .4 like some of us believe. If he is right or not is another thing.