Cubes

Please list prices for the tyres as rules state. I'm interestered in the 16" tyres, I need prices.

I'm considering ditching my bar plate 580hp 100mm thick core for a GTR item as I'm only wanting 270 odd rwkw. GTR coolers are good for 300rwkw from what i've been 'told'.

Driving flat stick doesn't really get you to work that much quicker. Light to moderate on boost you don't need to leave the car running, just be sure turning the car off is the last thing you do before getting out the car, this gives the turbo time to spin down.

From what I've noticed building a 3ltr then comparing it to the 2.5 and 2ltr, it appears for every 500cc increase you improve spool by ~600rpm. Its the torque that makes the biggest difference.

With regards to the resistor packs. Head down to your local U-Pull It style wrecker and grab one from a R30 Skyline for next to nothing. The one I picked up cost nothing. Just be sure to cut it off from the loom so you receive the male part of the connector.

My guess is the difference will be bugger all compared to a split dump pipe, not a open dump like you suggested. For example, A CES dump pipe. That would have been a much better comparison.

Why you must run a resistor pack. http://www.hondata.com/techlowohminjectors.html Those looking for the R30 resistor pack; its located behind the strut on the passenger side. Very easy to see. Be sure you grab the complete plug (male and female) with some wire to spare.

Upgrading valve springs alone will not resolve valve float if there isn't enough seat pressure to begin with. It will only resolve the issue if the valve springs are too soft to handle the inlet and exhaust pressures when making some decent power. I.e comparing my head to Bl4ck32's. Mine was nice and tight, bl4ck32's was loose and required shimming, upgrading springs in bl4ck32's head would have made a small difference but not completely resolved the float he would have experienced. Yours may be fine, but it is something to look in to. Much cheaper than replacing the exhaust manifold. Bl4ck32 is currently running 16psi on stock n/a springs with zero signs of valve float. Its something you can do yourself.

Why not just look at a 33 GTR FMIC, they are cheap and work very well.

ebc was courtesy of a five finger discount?

I wouldn't bother driving 5hrs if thats the case. Take it to any one you can trust that has experience with the good old VL or R31. The bottom ends are basically the identical when it comes to bits that go round and round, up and down.

So its running a NEW R33 GTST pump or a second hand r33 pump?

The VLT boys swear by garrett cores. They are pricey though. My 100mm thick bar and plate is too dense, it doesn't flow air through it at all. Squirt a hose hard up against it and you only get a slight dribble out the back of the core. Sitting on 80-100km/h I often hear the fan roar up as I lug up a long hill. Maybe you should grab some photo paper, throw the printer in to poster mode and print out a fmic. Laminate it and shove it in your front bumper.

I believe sky30's turbo also runs a big diesel .82 internal gate housing.

What he most probably did was increase fuel pressure, adjust the safc so it wasn't running rich, then retarded the ignition timing via the cas so it doesn't ping. The cas is a set value, the ecu's map is also set but vary's with load and rpm. Think of the cas as a base ignition value that makes global a global set change to the internal map.

Its around the mark Dynos read differently.

Remember sky30 is running 260duration cams and noticed no improvement in top end (~5800rpm peak for both aftermarket and stock). This to me is an indication you need to work on getting the exhaust out and back pressure down, or as I said prior, have you had seat tension checked with the new valve springs in? You may still be getting a little float. Bl4ck32's head would have most definitely had valve float no matter what springs he used. One reason it was shimmed. Mine on the other hand was fine, upon inspection my valve seats sit slightly higher where as bl4ck32's were sunken in the head slightly more. Not all heads are equal. There is very little difference between the DE and DET cams, only a couple points duration and lift. So..... Get that hotside flowing better to raise VE. I know you don't really want to start playing with exhaust manifolds etc. Maybe look at a cast HKS item. Bl4ck32's looks quite good and could be hidden under a modified stock heat shield with a little work.

Changing the cas timing will do nothing to trick the ecu. Thats the job of the safc and the fpr (increase fuel pressure). When increasing fuel pressure and touching nothing else the car runs as rich as buggery, this is where you use the safc to lean the thing out and bring the afr's back in to something respectable. Leaning it out via the safc tricks the ecu in to thinking the motor is using less air, as a result injector duty cycles are less and less fuel squirts in to the pots. This 'evens' out the effect of having a higher fuel pressure. The ECU has a MAP. The map is a 16 x 16 grid of load and rpm. Load is how much air the motor is swallowing. Each cell contains a fuel and ignition timing value. Lesser load cells contain lesser fuel values but higher ignition timing values. As fuel is less dense (less fuel pushed in) in the combustion chamber the charge burns slower, due to this the ignition timing has to be higher as to have peak combustion pressures roughly 10degree's after top dead center. Full throttle generally runs ignition timing values of around 18-20degree's depending on setup. Cruise and light load runs a hell of a lot of ignition timing, high 20 something degrees right up to mid 40 degree's. This is why you use the cas to reduce the igniton timing. Using the SAFC to make the ecu think the motor is swallowing less air WILL use a lesser load point, as said previously using a lesser load point means that lesser load point will be running much more ignition timing. This is where you use the cas to bring the ignition timing back to what it should be and not so advanced. Running ignition too advanced doesn't gain power, it robs power and causes the motor to detonate. If you have peak combustion pressures before ~10degree's after top dead center (crank movement) the flame will be trying to push the piston down as the crank is still trying to push it up. Its got nothing to do with stock fuel pumps or what ever your line of thinking is. Its exactly as I said above, nothing more nothing less.

All the way to the right as in turning the cas clockwise? That would be retarding. Anti clockwise is advancing. To help visualise it i've attached a picture. The above pic had ignition timing sitting 6degree's.

I think what he's done is raised the fuel pressure then used a fuel computer such as a SAFC to lean it out again. This would make the ecu think its seeing much less airflow, as a result missing the ecu's protection (rich retard). Doing this you WOULD NOT want to advance the timing, rather retard it slightly as these lesser load points (lesser airflow) cells have a much higher ignition timing. Hope that makes sense. Its bodgy, but works I guess. By the time the tuner stuffs around with the cost of an fpr and settings it up, ignition timing, safc cost and safc tuning you could grab a pfc for 1k, plug it in and grab a cheap 1hr WOT tune for $100.

I've been thinking about this for a little while now. You really need the exhaust side of things flowing easily to aid top end VE. i.e nice manifold and large turbine housing. A 3ltr pushes the same air at 5800rpm as 2.5ltr does at ~7000rpm. If the 3ltr was making power until 6800rpm, bolt a 2.5ltr under the head setup and that would make power until ~8000rpm. Stock or near stock cams don't do this. My thinking is.. You want a 3ltr to make power to 7000rpm then drop off, build it as if you were building an rb25 that makes power to 8200rpm then drops off. [mumbles] 272dur, 1.06 turbine, exh. manifold [/mumbles] Another option to help with the gearing and acceleration of the car, Diff ratio. EDIT: Another thought, have you had valve seat tension checked?

360awkw is 482awhp.

Nothing wrong with a Proctologist. A rather erm.. enjoyable job for.. some.

I'll stick with the skyline. Fuel consumption is quite good, better than a ford 6 or commodore 6.

^ LMAO!!!!!