Cubes

Sounds good Bob. Dropping the comp ratio with a set of cheap cast pistons? 250rwkw is a walk in the park with a decent comp ratio. 9:1 is too highly strung for our fuel really, it can be done with long term reliability but one has to be carefull.

Ronin09, Exactly.. A 3" system. 3.5" systems are louder, noticably louder. A 2 x 2.5" system is on par with a 3.5"-4" with regards to flow. Thats what should be compared. Bl4ck32's twin system has small mufflers on the rear, there is no droning and is only slightly louder than my 3" with a larger rear muffler and large center resonator. I've heard a few 3.5" exhausts and to be honest they sound a little rude loud. I've now seen 2 twins on an rb30det and Tim Possinghams old RB25DET R33. Both looked to be the same exhaust, with regards to rear muffler size. The Twin was not as rude loud. That being said both of these twins have been on a single turbo, its quite possible twins on the gtr's twin turbo's react different.

I dropped my motor ~13mm. A strut brace does fit providing the has the bar pass over the motor in front or behind the cross over pipe. The sump doesn't sit below the cross member so its all safe. Still... A pain in the arse though. Slap a set of 26 rods in her with 87mm pistons.

One bloke did right at the beginning. He did say it require something like 20degree's cas timing to get it going. I assume this to be so as the stock ecu ign. map was setup around the 9:1 comp ratio. RB30DET being 8.3:1 obviously requires a little more ignition timing. It will definitely run on the rb25det ecu, from memory he made ~200rwkw on 11psi or something. More than the rb25 made with no power dips, which was strange. The Rb25DET turbo is slightly bigger than the rb20det turbo, it doesn't restrict top end as much. Its still very fun to drive and rather quick.

Iceduck, I believe if the car is registered to an address ~30-40km's within the CBD then you always go to regency. Even for a minor bald tyre or blown head light.

A nice sized SAU logo on the back A little Nismo on the front pocket location The web address on the collar

I've said it many times. Ceramic turbine wheels absolutely hate high exhaust gas temperatures. Leaner AFR = higher exhaust gas temp. Less ignition timing = higher exhaust gas temp. Slightly richer = lower exhaust gas temp. As its slightly richer you can dial in a little more ignition timing. More ignition timing = lower exhaust gas temp. Slightly richer, around ~11.5:1 + more ignition timing = the same power but a safer same power due to a lower exhaust gas temp. Notice how a lot of the 300rwkw+ RB's at points in the rev range run a 11:1. Its all about reliability, bugger running it leaner when it may cost you 4k if not more for a motor rebuild. 12.5 is definitely a little lean. What happens when that fuel filter becomes a little blocked? 13:1, especially if its on stock injectors up around 200rwkw.

Ignition maps are easy to fool around with as you can monitor the knock level. Inj on the other hand.. i wouldn't bother playing.

Its well known amongst the v8 heads a twin 2.5" is quieter than a single 3.5" with the same high quality straight through mufflers.

I pretty much did what GTRken described. I used a plain mineral oil with ZERO friction modifiers. Mineral Motul 10w30 until 10,000km's then went synthetic. I had to wire open the wastegate and get some decent load in to it as it was trying to boost 10-12psi under 2000rpm at wot.

Dual is definitely quieter than the equiv single. Bl4ck32's is amazingly quiet, still loud but not rude sounding and absolutely zero drone. Dual = quiet. Another reason APS use it in their xr6 system.

Excellent.. pics are good. Any oil/water galleys to worry about on the opposite side of the block? For ppls doing this conversion in the R32/R33's. With regards to gear ratios. If I rev mine past 5000rpm I end up going slower is it drops the next gear in to less torque and instead of power gaining it is dropping as the car accelerates through the whole of that gear. By changing at 5000rpm compared to slightly before 5500rpm I gain .5 of a sec to 100km/h. Changes at 5000rpm are optimal for myself, which sucks. All at 5000rpm 1st - 42km/h 2nd - 71km/h 3rd - 105km/h 4th - 136km/h So yer.. the stock turbo on the rb30det in an r32 sucks.

If the only mods were an exhaust, IC and a bit of boost I wouldn't bother with a FC. You can pick up a safc for $200-$300, get it tuned for $100 and your on the road, its definitely good bang for buck.

Nothing wrong with the VL's. The VL' should be on par to that of the rb25det running the same mods, if not a little better due to the 25's crap ecu that does its rich and retard. Come along Nath, pass through and we will head down together.

As you lower the afm signal to lean out the car it runs more ignition timing. Not good for a reliable motor you want to zip around the local track or on a 30-40degree day. The dyno graph you posted I think is a bad example. Look at that nasty arsed power dip smack in the middle.

Unfortunately its not the way it is. Note all the ppls that have gone to a pfc and gone. 'wow' the extra mid range power. I would kill to have a good look at a rb20det or rb25det stock ecu's ignition map.

The driveway isn't a problem. Shaun knows how to get up it without scrapes. Bl4ck32's R32 is or was very low at the front with its gtr style front bumper, it gets up the Boostworx drive way no problems.

Thats correct with regards to peak power ben. When it comes to average power the pfc leaves the safc well behind. Average power is what accelerates a car.

Joe, From factory RB's have an idler and tensioner. The tensioner is a locking tensioner so it could be considered an adjustable idler. So with regards to premature belt wear it won't make any difference providing you don't overtighten. Does that sound right?

I've seen a VL series 2 block that didn't have the machined area. It may have blown a motor at some time and had a series1 motor dropped in to it. Look in to reverse locating the tensioner.. I'm sure you know what I mean.

I think I know what you are talking about. If you have a block with the attached pic you will have issues mounting the lower tensioner. My block has a machined flat surface in this location, from what i've seen at u-pullit all the R31 rb30 blocks have the machined flat surface and also have the oil feed/returns. Only way around it would be to mount the tensioner location opposite as to what it usually is. Speak to some one about it as I'm unsure if doing so would cause any issues. I will get around to including this in the guide as soon as I finish this damn PHP assignment.

I know of one person that ran their car on racepace's dyno in shoot out mode and non-shootout. Shoot out mode was 10% higher, ambient and inlet temps being 25. I've also done a bit of googling and there has been a few other ppls observe the 10% higher thing. I'm about to bolt a slight larger turbo on so I will have mine run back to back in shootout and non-shoot out mode to see for myself if there is indeed that 10% difference others have observed under normal at and it temps. I will also fiddle with moving the IT temp sensor to see how much of a difference it really makes. I haven't had fuel pressure checked. Apparently Shauns new dyno reads lower than his last, its roughly where the injectors max out, it didn't suprise Shaun at all. That being said it has also been mentioned that its not that shootout mode reads higher, just more accurate. Still.. if that is correct that means my stock rb20det turbo made 193rwkw on 9psi. It does sound a little far fetched. I'll get mine on the dyno and sort out this nonshootout vs shootout for my own sanity. lol

Our bottom end complete not including bolting the head on set us back $3500 including Wiseco forged. But then again we did have the crank and rods machined for equal clearances, or what is known as blueprinting those items. Even still, you consider no forged pistons in your build, ~1400 for a rebuild seems a little too cheap. My bet is you will go to pick up the motor and you will be faced with a bigger bill. Just like Bl4ck32 was when he picked up his head. I remember I received a quote from Miltons, listed what I wanted done and the price was up around 6-7k.

Simex are actually pretty good for straight line grip. They have a very very soft sidewall that causes the tyre to flatten out on to the road. Not good for cornering. I've tried a few tyres and actually found the simex to grip in a striaght line than Goodyear F1, Bridgestone B530, Firenza ST-03, Sava. All normal tyres, obviously a nice set of tyres will out grip the simex but for the price, they are damn good. Remember Rev210 in his near stock high 12 sec R33 GTST, that ran 205 simex.

1400r, Now I know you are in SA. You should head down to the Boostworx dyno day. $25. I've had mine on boostworx dyno with stock frp, bosch pump and can only manage 176rwkw with 92% duty holding a 12:1afr. Running the stock actuator pressure with no bleeder boost peaks to 12psi then quickly tails off to 9psi where it makes peak power. Its got a rb30 bottom end and rb25 head (that flows damn well) under the bonnet, but it is still running all the stock rb20det gear. Turbo, injectors etc. Re: Injectors - I'm aware dyno's read differently, mine also wasn't run in shootout mode. Not running in shootout mode generally yields a slightly less power reading. I've seen as high as 30rwkw difference between shootout mode and non shootout mode, 30rwkw more being the shootout mode. In non shootout mode 3yrs ago when Tim owned RPM my rb20det running the stock turbo at 1bar, 17degree's ignition timing and a bleeder on the fpr made 164rwkw. non-shoot out mode. Nice power, very linear and looks as if it wouldn't have too many troubles loosing traction. Sounds strange not loosing traction being a good thing but I wish mine was linear, my first is useless as is second half the time depending on road surface. The run attached was done in 4th, compare road speeds and you will see what I mean. Obviously I don't have much top end sped as the small turbo restricts revs to around 5000-5500rpm. I'm eventually going a xr6 turbo, it should be all in by 3800rpm and making ~10psi by 3000rpm so it will be linear and a little laggy which is good for fuel economy. I've attached a dyno run scan. The dip in the torque curve after it peaks was a little wheel spin. I was happy with the $100 tune. Hope to see u at the dyno day.