Cubes

Fatz is still cruising in his R31 with a RB20DET g/box, xr6 turbo bolted on the side of an rb25/26 thing making 270rwkw. Be nice and don't run sticky (nitto's re55s) tyres and it will be fine. Hard launches and slapping gear changes is what kills the box.

No forged pistons required. The std. comp ratio of the rb20 is good. Spend the money on some head work to get the intake and exhaust flowing better. Deshroud the intake and exhaust valves, polish up the combustion chamber and smooth out ALL sharp edges. This improves low lift airflow and discourages detonation. Port match and port/polish the exhaust port, smooth out the exhaust port stud lump. Suitable valve job. Port match and port/roughen the inlet port, 3 angle valve job. I don't know a whole lot about head work, basically spend a good 1-1.5k on headwork including the rebuild cost. Much more spent than this goes to waste unless you are running huge 10+mm lift cams. OR... Grab a R32 RB25DE (is able to run of the stock R32 ecu and wiring loom without mods, bolts up to everything the rb20det used), slap a set of cast RB25 pistons in to it to drop the comp ratio, leave the head stock and it will make 300hp at the wheels on 11psi with a stock rb25 turbo. Best part is, it looks 100% like a RB20DET. You cannot tell.

I've always had a bit of a boost drop issue. I've put it down to the crappy designed aftermarket dump pipe that v's up 10mm or so in front of the turbine wheel, the 'performance specialists' didn't stretch the pipe over the flange correctly. I've seen another dump done like this since by another mob.

What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman? Stocker for a while or..? With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop. The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two. RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm.

As Paulr33 said.. Hit the recirc button on the climate control. If I don't even though the climate control is turned off air still flows through from out side and heats up the car damn quick. Only way to stop it is to turn it to 18degree's (sometimes that doesn't work as my climate control goes dicky every so often and constantly pumps hot air) and hit the recirc button.

Boost guage could be out, exhaust could be restrictive who knows.

How about lets just say 'configuration issue'

Shootout mode 'generally' reads higher.

Genuine thermostat. ~$49.95 Aftermarket waterpump. ~$80-$85

I like the genuine thermostats. $~50. They get the car up to operating temp real quick, which equals better fuel economy and less engine wear. From my observations the aftermarket thermostats react very quickly, in other words it flings right open, and very wide, and shuts really quick. The genuine tends open not as wide and it does so a little slower, it also closes slowly. If that makes sense. My sister had overheating issues in her VL Commodore when cruising up Willunga Hill (big arsed many km hill), drop the genuine thermostat in it and its fine. I suspect the aftermarkets open too much that causes issues with either water flowing too quick or some some how reducing the pumps ability to flow?!?! No idea.. Grab a decent quality RB30E waterpump that come with a gasket, no need for rb26 n1 items unless it will see lots of the track. As far as I'm aware there is only a genuine thermostat housing available. Obviously, they are a little pricey. Use the one of your rb20, it should be fine. Don't forget to change the block heater hose attachments on the rb30 to suit the rb20 setup. One off the thermostat housing and another at the rear of the block on the drivers side.

I remember it was a gold colour? I will have to check pics when I get up home.

The car doesn't ingest ambient air.. It ingests intake air. The hotter the air the less dense it is, as a result the less power the car will make, this is where the dyno makes small adjustments. The power figure is 'around' the mark, thats all that really matters.

The RB20 has lots of smaller puffs instead of less big puffs. Not good for spooling a turbo but good for top end, if the head allows the airflow. As Robo with his RB25DET stated in the following thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=84926

I've had Ultimates, from readings I was expecting them to squeel so I bought my self a tube of PBR anti-squeal adhesive, slapped it every where over the back of the disk and antisqueel shims. They never squeeled so it worked. The car was only driven on the street and never saw anyhard braking.

Warren, The correct method is to place the dyno's air intake temp sensor in the location where the car sucks in the ambient air. Air intake temps being so high I would suspect the bonnet was closed, a rather wise move when you think about how the safc works. At every map location you have a fuel value and ignition value tied together. As you run down the map the car is sucking in more air, as a result running less ignition timing and more fuel. To lean the car out you tell the ecu it is sucking less air than it really is, as a result you use a lesser load point with a cell that has a higher ignition value and less fuel value. Ignition timing is the killer, one very good reason to tune with the bonnet down. That way any detonation would have shown up on the dyno. Hopefully.

Clear cookies.

Just take it easy on the hot days and after sitting in traffic for awhile.

Falcon XR6T, Its little white lies that has got people questioning your credibility. From that start you should have stated what you do, how much it has cost you and how much it would cost some one off the street. People knowing you work for or own a performance shop will then not so much worry about 'secret' mods as we all know the falcon xr6t is a new car still to be fully explored. I guess this is why you have been the laughing stock in this thread, you haven't been straight down the line with us. Its simple respect.

$3 AUD for a gallon sounds good to me.

If you had a true cai that doesn't suck any air from the engine bay, you would drop your intake temps to the same as ambient. Thats a drop of 27degree's and thats on a dyno with constant airflow. Sitting in traffic on a 40degree day.. Ouch if you should put the pedal to the metal. The R33 having an upside down airbox makes this difficult.

2530's on the rb20's don't get all their boost in by 3000rpm, the stock turbo does yer. Its around 3800rpm loaded up on the dyno for around 1.1bar.

You run a pod? The Intake temps are rather high.. Best to get those down for the summer.

I run a 9puk Ceramic 1tonne, these handle up to around 300rwkw without any issues. I had a play with launching in second at 3000rpm, the clutch had to be ridden otherwise it would break out in to a wheel spin. With quite a bit of slipping it showed zero signs of wanting to slip, felt exactly the same after the big slip, unlike organics that go all crappy until they cool down. I've previously had organic clutches that with a hard launch had second gear slipping. Ceramics tollerate heat better than organics in the respect of grip however they are known to burnout quick if they are slipped too much.

I assume this is how the AVCR also detects which gear the car is in as it makes use of the ecu's std speed and rpm counters.

Dave... 420hp at the wheels?