Cubes

November the 11th would be much better. Only 2 days after my birthday. Maybe some on in the family can get me an oil cooler. So all up, what do we need. Stack hat. Whats it cost to enter? Any other fees?

I'll quiz Sky30 as he had valve float issues and replaced the std items with GTR springs. I'll ask what needed to be done if anything.

Have any of you tried the PBR anti squeel glue stuff. It comes in a small black tube, I use this also. I forget to mention.

Predator is on the ball. 1. Replace bulbs with aussy clear bulbs. None of these blue tinge crap as they shed less light. 2. Realign your head lights. After doing this I find the lights quite good.

R32's have the usual glass lense so they don't go yellow. I do know what you mean, try adjusting your headlights. Basically the idea is you park 2 meters away from a wall, turn your headlights on mark with your finger the center (or was it the bottom I forget) of the light, leave your finger on your leg as the mark, limp up to the wall and place a mark on the wall. Align the lights so the top comes level with this mark. Go for a drive, make sure the lights don't light up the interior of the car infront at normal driving distance. You could also try replacing the globes with standard clear items, I a set of globes that had a blue globe, put them in and sure they looked nice with the blue tinge but gave it stuff all light. The conventionals are much brighter.

I ran Ultimates with DBA rotors. Never squeeled but I did give them a little more than the recommended bedding in procedure. Lots of repeated 100km/h stops, no time to cool inbetween. One question.. Did the people who did the work remove the anti-squeel shims from the old pads and put them on the new? When pads are dirty and dusty its easy to forget and simply throw them aside.

I had this issue with my R32 GTST running stock brakes with Ultimate brake pads. I would flush the system, brake bias would come good. A couple of weeks later it would go crappy again, locking the rears. I began flushing the system every few weeks. Finally it came good. The brake fluid prior was extremely dirty and would constantly turn the fluid blackish.

As a comparison I was quoted $500 to replace and fit L/R front radius rod bushes & L/R front upper control arm bushes. I am going to to them myself as I have a friend with a press. Its not difficult to do, just be sure to tighten up the bushes with load on them, i.e not with it jacked up. Obviously tighten them up slightly when jacked up but not completely super tight.

Best I managed in the R32 with the Rb20DET was 5.2, it was consistent and easy to launch. The RB30DET.. Initially I lost 1 whole sec, 6.2, zero traction in first, second is fine providing the change is smooth. I've since managed to get it down to 5.9secs, the trick was not to over-rev it, change at 5100rpm and its fine. lol, damn small turbo. 6.9 0-100 for the R32 I think is on the money. Mine was damn slow when 100% stock and making 115rwkw.

Can some one please take a photo of the S2 AFM plug and wires indicating which is the 12v feed. I will include it in the pdf.

I noticed cookies were being retained around 7:40 tonight. Both IE and Mozilla are fine. I've cleared cookies and logged in, persistence is definitely now working. I've also noticed the cookie path has been set back to root (from /forum). Everything is now working 100%. Main web page and forums that is. If your having issues clear what ever skylinesaustralia cookies there are and re-login.

I've been told $200-$300 to tune up with different injectors. Little touch ups, more boost, different turbo etc is $100-$200. Depends on the tuner, some charge by the hour, some charge for a 'tune' regardless of time taken. Some go that little step more and keep the car over night to get the cold/warm starts perfect. Some charge and don't do anything special. What I would do... Hang around.. Who cares if it takes a whole day. At least you will see for your self exactly how long it goes on the dyno. Take a camera, few vids pics etc.

http://docs.invisionpower.com/kb/article.php?id=163 I'm assuming you would have to set the cookie domain to .skylinesaustralia.com note the full stop prior to skylinesaustralia.com The cookie path should not be set to anything, such as /forums/ The cookies are also required at the root www.skylinesaustralia.com address. EDIT: hrmm something has changed recently.. well kind of recently.. I am now showing cookies saved. I've had a look at the cookie path. It is set to /forums You will notice if you browse www.skylinesaustralia.com it won't store the login details. Browse www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums and the cooking info is store.

There's no persistence.. You will notice sau cookies are not being stored on your computer. I'm going to have a read of Invision Powerboard docs and see if I can shed any light.

Twinscrew.. lol What you are asking is impossible.

deluxe, Do you know the specs on the turbo from ATS? If it was a bitza or a chra core machined in to stock housings?

Grab a VG30 or similiar sized turbine housing, machine it up to suit a GT30 -12 CHRA with a .6 comp cover. + a set of cams and you will get very very close to 300rwkw. That should come on hard just before 4k. The only way to really drop spool times more is to drop the head on a rb30 block.

It sounds nice.. The day you pick it up is going to be murder, lots of butter flys in the stomach.

It will be my first time out + the suspension isn't the best so I will be just getting the feel for it.

The GCG highflow is basically a GT30 500hp chra machined in to the rb25 comp and turbine cover. A better option I think, allthough not a 100% bolt up due to the different comp cover is to use the GT30 ~550hp 6blade -12 chra, a .6 comp cover and machine it in to either a R33 Rb25 turbine housing or R34/VG30 turbine housing. The R34/VG30 turbine housings are slightly bigger than the R33 rb25 turbine housings. Depending on dyno's it appears the gcg highflow setup max's out some where just over 240rwkw. If you want more you need to step up to the slightly larger r34/vg30 turbine housing. This does however create a little more lag, the r34/vg30 gcg hibrid comes on hard around 3800rpm. The same as a XR6 turbo on a Rb30DET. mawahaha. hrmm.. o...kay.. Or the other option is to grab a horsepowerinabox setup which uses the gt30 500hp core, .7 comp cover and r33 rb25 turbine housing machined up. That makes slightly more power than the gcg setup purely due to the larger comp cover. It makes a solid~ 260rwkw, with cams its up around the 280rwkw, still on the r33 rb25 turbine housing. I think the .7 comp cover is too large, it requires a spacer plate and reduces throttle response, but it is good for high boost efficiency. Optimal... GT30 -12 CHRA & .6 comp cover, R33 RB25 turbine or R34/vg30 turbine housing. Speaking to ATS he recommended the slightly larger GT30 for the RB30, obviously the Rb25 will run in to serious surge issues with such a small rb25 turbine housing and the big 600hp core. As its a complete chra and hasn't had its wheels fiddled with its safe to say it will be a reliable turbo. For myself.. I've got a vg30det turbo here, its either get it machined up to suit the gt30 near christmas or grab a xr6 turbo that is floating around for hopefully ~$1500 maybe less.

I was under the impression you lean and retard to get a turbo spooling slightly quicker? Lean + retard = higher egt's.

Hi ppls, As the topic states, I'm after a R33 or R34 Turbo's 90degree elbow that bolts directly to the compressor cover. Thanks.

My most satisfying play was a dude in his 280kw VY Senator. He was an older bloke also, dropping back twice and flying ahead of me. Next set of lights was a roll on from around 40km/h.. He got the jump due to lag in second, up on boost and the little old dead stock looking R32 began slowly walking away from the Senator, at the time it was only making around 160kw running 1bar. All in good fun, there was no stupid high speeds, only up to the 100km/h speed limit.

To reseat the valves they have to pull the head apart and reassemble. This is what costs the $$. I could have a quick look at the head and suggest if it needs shimming due to lack of seat tension. Hopefully it doesn't. Drilling the tensioner locater is easy, don't worry if it goes in to the water galley behind, throw some plumbers tape on the thread when you screw it in. The bloke that did my motor doesn't work at City Dismantlers any more, he went and bought him self some earth moving equipment. He does however build motors from home, I have his number, They arn't half arsed jobs, he knows his theory and has been in the game since a young kid. BUT.. he builds motors, not bolt heads on to motors. To simply bolt the head on, drill tap tensioner, fit cam belt, check valve/piston clearances he charged $200. Obviously to rip a head apart and assemble you are looking at $300-$400 even before you touch it. Almost makes it worth while to smooth out the lumps in the exhaust ports and clean everything up. But where does it end.

That was an expensive head job, and didn't even come with a full service. Still... the recondition was worth every penny.