Cubes

What final plans have you got for the rb25det? If its to head upwards of 300rwkw why not simply grab a R32 RB25DE, slap a set of forged pistons in it and be done with it. The PowerFC will run fine on the r32 rb25de, afterall, thats exactly what I have done with the only difference being I slapped a rb30 block underneath the rb25 head. The reason I say to go forged pistons is the N/A blocks don't run piston oil squirters. The only issue that may exist is the emissions side of things as you will be obviously using an aftermarket ecu, that obviously doesn't bother you though. It will still run on the rb20det ecu, simply throw an R33 wastegate actuator to limit boost to 6-7psi. 6-7psi is on the limit of the rb20det's ecu fuel cut once you are running the much better flowing rb25 head.

Shaun, The EL thermo's are very very slim. Chances are you have the EF or even AU thermo's.

That it will indeed. All holden need to do now is release that torana.

PlasticSan, Your PowerFC is a R32 AP Engineering? I 100% no longer have the 2 stage highlow. For example when idling then touch the accelerator. I can always hear the fuel pump on high, plug the stock ecu back in and I've got the 2 stage back. Strange. EDIT: I've just had a quick look to try and track down what car you drive. It appears to be an R33, so.. Not an R32.

Its also interestering to note that when you fit the PFC up it no longer uses the high/low. Its always on high.

I tried 2 x 12" Davis thermo's. I had issues in summer, they were however mounted directory to the radiator which is a big no no. Upon pulling the fans off there is a HUGE dead spot in the middle, It worked out that less than half of the radiator had airflow through its fins. The thermo's must be mounted on some sort of shroud. Build up a small aluminium thing if you must.

Boostd, I've spoke to ATS on marion road regarding the size of the turbine housings. He said the RB25 turbine housing is most definaitely a .6 a/r and the vg30 a .7 or there abouts. He said its difficult to measure exactly unless they are cut down (as disco once said I believe also). He also said there is no actual listing for the turbine housings so that too also throws out the idea of looking up specs. He could be wrong though.. I seem to think so especially after looking at a VLT turbine housing that is most definaitely a .6.

The are awesome fans. Head down to a car yard and leave an EL idling for a while, check out how much air they push when they flick on to high. They are a twin thermo mounted in a shroud.

I would like to know where the inlet temp sensor is on the r33's. Only the GTR's were released with the air inlet temp sensors.

When looking for second hand EL thermo fans the wreckers didn't have any. Well one wrecker had one but it was damaged. It was then I was told about the aftermarket el thermo's. All the wreckers I went to was able to get their hands on the aftermarket el thermo's. Price didn't vary must suprisingly, $190-$193

No probs. I'll pull the comp cover off and take some more.. It appears I've misplaced the ones I took prior. R34 cover is the same size as the VG30. RB20 is smaller yes.

Can't beat the sound of the old v8's.

If you need any pics of the r34 comp wheel etc let me know.

I've done lots of measurements.. The R34 GTT and VG30DET Turbo's I have here have 'exactly' the same turbine housing. Everything measures up, feels and looks the same. The cross section I mentioned to measure measures up as 50mm. The RB20 turbo measures up as 45mm here. On the turbine housing both have the Markins OP6. The VG30 has a 6 stamped just inside the T3 flange where as the R34 turbo has a 5. BassJunky bought a VG30 turbo only to find it had the same turbine housing as the R34 turbo he had. What are your thoughts on a slightler larger comp wheel with a surge ring vs a slightly smaller without the surge ring?

yes

I've got both a vg30 and r34 gtt turbo that i'm measuring up. It appears the elbow from the r34 turbo will indeed bolt up to the vg30 turbo. The RB20DET elbow definitely won't. I am unsure of the R33 rb25det turbo's elbow. I've also discovered as have some others, that the R34 GTT turbo has the exact same size turbine housing as the VG30DET turbo. sThe only difference between the two is that the R34 turbo runs a slightly larger compressor BUT it does have a anti-surge ring or what ever its called located in the snout which reduces efficiency. Stock vs stock I'm not really sure which is better. Larger compressor with an anti-surge ring or slightly smaller compressor without the surge ring. Could you please do me a favour and measure the r33 rb25det turbine housing as the following pic illustrates and post the results? Even just by using a ruler with a sharp eye will be good enough. For example the cross section width of the rb20det turbo is ~45mm.

That being said... What pads would you recommend for the street and occasional track use Mr. Beer Baron? I've tried Bendix Ultimates, stopped awesome, very dusty and very hard on my new rotors, they also only lasted ~20,000km's which I was very dissapointed with. I didn't even really give them a hard time. Running the usual semi-metals, i've now clocked at least 70,000km's. They do feel a little hard and slippery but can still easily lock the wheels on demand.

I came across this www site. http://www.sydneycartraders.com.au/cars.html If I was in the market for a 'new car', had no family and lived a bachelors life and I was a tight arse I think you can't argue that the SV8 Commodore is pretty damn good value, especially with its LS2. From a performance perspective I've had a bad run with commodores in the past. Broke on me when they are pushed a little.

There's an easy test.. The temp sensor in the bottom of the rad.. Unplug the plug that runs to it and short the pins. The engine overheat fan 'should' do its thing. I do this on summer days as it helps the A/C feel cooler in peak hour traffic.

It does sound like a fuel pump issue, but you never know. The joys of owning a performance car. Off to the dyno it goes.

It really depends how the heads are from factory. My head apparently had quite good valve seat pressure where as a friends (bl4ck32) rb25de head required shimming. His valve seats were noticably receeded in the head. But generally its some where up around 15-17psi. Bl4ck32 is now running 16psi with no issues.

That it is west. I have ran 2 x 12" davis thermo's. Mine too struggled and often had the overheat fan turning on. I've since gone back to the clutch type and have no issues with overheating. I do fear the clutch fan i am running is on its way out though. I did notice a slight decrease in fuel economy and I swear it doesn't feel as punchy at the tip of the accelerator. I will be going thermo's again as summer approaches. This time round I will be buying a set of bran spankin new aftermarket EL Falcon twin thermo's. They are the perfect size in all aspects for the R32 radiator, very very slim and are $190 new.

Any one got measurements of the RB25 compressor wheel? Please.. It would be interestering to see the difference between the r34 and r33 comp wheels.

It was that 700HP dude over at calaisturbo. He done a couple of motors in with the stock balancer up around 6500rpm. Replaced balancer.. no problems

I assume connect both grounds together. I don't know. What I am saying is to grab a multimeter to find out what is what. Give your tuner a buzz and pick his brains. Hopefully he isn't so hard up for cash that he will simply say.. "Yep she's cool to wire the two grounds together".