Cubes

I measured the voltage my pump was receiving today. 11.1v using the supplied earth at WOT. 11.68v using the chassis as the earth at WOT. ~12.6v at idle. Still a little low, it should be what the battery is, 13.8v. Battery is at the front, running the std. internal pump with an external bosch pump. At WOT you are running a higher fuel pressure. (Base pressure + boost entering the engine). Higher fuel pressure at WOT = higher fuel pump load and current draw at WOT.

With regards to fuel pumps. It pays to check the voltage at the pump. I checked mine a few minutes ago. 11.1v using the supplied earth at WOT. 11.68v using the chassis as the earth at WOT. ~12.6v at idle. Still a little low, it should be what the battery is, 13.8v. I'll be running a wire from the battery to the fuel pump via a relay within the next couple of days. Also checked my gtr injectors. 2.13 ohms, all exactly equal, which is a good thing.

ookami, I think that SR20 may have had issues with the manifold it was using and or dump pipe. The log style manifolds will always make less power than a well made aftermarket manifold as the aftermarket manifold evens out reversion across the cylinders. This enables you to dial in more ignition timing before detonation sets in. Reversion bad, with the stock manifold it is amplified if you run a set of cams that have overlap and an exhaust that creates backpressure. As a rule of thumb, if you do the cams you want the hot side flowing as well as possible. Back pressure is a turbo's enemy. The response difference between internal and external gate is not noticable. Its the manifold that was causing issues.

One tank will kill an rb25det. Do a search, it wasn't driven hard either.

No idea which exhaust he used. He liked the larger .87 turbine housing much better as it was much more drivable/usable.

Whats the power enterprise balancer worth?

Starter motor is located on the drivers side just below the inlet manifold. It looks like a big electric motor and connects to the bell housing.

Its a HKS turbo where its had the 45MM internal gate designed for the purpose. It will be fine, the reason people step up to external gate with larger turbos is because the 'usual' internal gates cannot pass enough exhaust gas causeing boost creep. Boost creep where you cannot keep boost down, it keeps building. You often see this with a bad highflow.

Steve dropped the comp ratio to around 8.6:1 via a thicker head gasket and had a set of cams. He also stepped up to the .87 turbine housing as the .69 was too small and had power coming on too hard. With the smaller turbine housing it made 250rwkw I think it was on 15psi. I remember he said it was fun but dangerous squeezing the throttle in fourth at 100km/h and having the car lane change by its self. I remember he used 22psi or there abouts, he had issues with not making the power it should have made, it came down to the exhaust was no good. Do a search the thread should be lingering somewhere.

I did a diff in like this. The size difference was bugger all, I had a stock 15" in as the spare, the wheels were 16" 225 50 16's. It wasn't a 2way mech or a vis skyline diff. It was a cone type lsd VS v8 IRS diff. I fitted the spare tyre, under acceleration the car would pull one way, under braking via gears the car would pull the opposite. Got home got the tyre fixed, fitted it up. Only drove 15km's. I first noticed the diff the very first intersection after I had fitted back up the fixed tyre, I had already started to turn and was rocking back and forth on the clutch. The arse end had a slightly wobbly clunk feel. Pretty much what a 2way mech feels like. It also was no longer LSD but rather a single spinner, something that it had never done before. 1 stuffed diff. ~$1100 or there abouts for a rebuild.

I considered getting the car tuned for std. regular unleaded. Then figured, $5 extra per tank.. bugger it. who cares. I've considered throwing regular unleaded in it and watching the knock monitor to see how much of a difference it really makes. I would then pull ign. timing out until there is no longer knock.. It would be interestering.

Nice turbo.. Let me know if you want to sell it.

I'm running an external bosch pump. Via a PFC afr's are tuned to a flat 12:1. I am making 176rwkw the injectors are running at 92%. A few more rev's past peak power see's the injectors hitting 100% to hold a flat 12:1 AFR. Some may be able to achieve more power, I'd say its more related to the dyno reading as mine wasn't done in shootout mode. Generally Shootout mode reads a little higher. 176rwkw from the stock rb20det turbo I think is around the mark, I doubt there is any more in it realistically. Remember I am running a better flowing head as the turbo is on the rb30det. To make similiar power with the rb20det you will need around 15psi.

I've had mine checked out. The std pfc map & light load up until around load point 12-13, it was reading spot on 14.7:1. I had a vs v8 common whore, it had a mild cam that you could only ever so slightly hear lope over. It was remapped. I remember the bloke saying light load was tuned to 16-17:1. It still had sh*t economy around the city. Driving nicely the most it would get around the city was 430-450km's per tank, but on the open road whoahhh.. an easy 650. lol Its tank was big, I remember with cheap petrol back then (0.72-0.79c) it was costing $55-$60 to fill. When tuning for a leaner mixture you not only have to change the afr, you also have to change the ignition timing. A leaner mixture will require more ignition timing as it burns slower, you need peak combustion pressure to occure ~10degrees ATD. Advancing the ignition timing also lowers the EGT, so I would think if its done correctly the egt would be very similiar to the richer mixture will less ign. timing.

I had another look at his pics.. wow.. yer that is a pretty bad 'bend'.

I agree to be honest. I have had a couple chassis specialists and also motor reg them selves tell me dents don't affect the structural integrity.. As said it all depends how bad it is.

I haven't got mine fixed yet. I had it looked at by a chassis specialist, they said not to worry about it as due to the mono-chassis it doesn't affect the structural integrity, its simply cosmetic. But yer I doubt regency have the same view. I gave regency/motor reg inspections a buzz. He told me they have seen it from time to time, it really depends if it all measures up as being straight and how bad it really is. Apart from that he did say they are monocop or something i suspect he meant mono chassis and that yes it is only cosmetic.

Thanks.. The pics are gooood.

Yer that is a small problem. The 180b tool doesn't either the teeth are not the exact correct size. We aligned the splines by eye, got part in then turned the tail shaft to align the second one. Ensure you have a big screw driver to turn the tail shaft, the clutch plates are rather tight.

If you were to rev the sucker hard I would most definitely look at replacing the harmonic balancer with an ati one for example. Otherwise.. good bye oil pump, bearings etc.. The VLT blokes have issues with their harmonic balancers up around the 6500rpm mark, broken oil pumps etc. The import det harmonic balancers tend to have issues up around the 7500rpm mark. I'm not willing to find out though.

I've done a twinplate using a 180b plastic clutch align tool. It worked well. It did feel a little loose, we simply did the old yep that feels centered and tightened everything up. I think if I used the tool (pic above) it would have been spot on as it literally does not move.

RB20DET, Stock turbo 15psi 164rwkw City: 470km's per ~50litres. That is until the red light first shows. Open Road: Not sure have never taken it on a full tank. WOT: Booting it the RB20DET would drop fuel economy to low 400's per tank. Driving style didn't appear to make much difference to fuel economy. RB30DET - Stock rb20det turbo 176rwkw 9psi. City: 450km's per 50litres. Open Road: Again. Not sure. WOT: Booting it the RB30DET drops to 380km's per tank. I'm scared to start swapping out the stock injectors incase fuel economy goes to the sh*t. Mind you Bl4ck32 has 550cc rx7 injectors thats all been tuned up, his rb30det in his r32 tends to get slightly better fuel economy than mine.

MonstaS4, Any chance of a pic? I will include it in the rb30 guide. The R32 RB25DE head doesn't have this issue it appears.

Check the afm signal in the etc -> sensor check. My guess is the signal is zero. It should be around the 1.3-1.4v at idle. Well mine is. With the ignition on without the car started, the afm signal should be some where around the 400mv. Once started, only then will it read 1.3-1.4v. If you think the car is running too rich or lean you can fiddle with the % setting in the afm menu. Standard they should all be at 100, 100+ pumps in more fuel, values less than 100 pump in less fuel. The car will start as it uses the cold start enrichment values to regulate the amount of fuel that goes it. That will allow it to start, the ecu then flicks over to the afm/load fueling.

I still like the old VL's.. I do think the XR6T ford is/will/has replaced them.