Cubes

How about the usual stage 1 mods. Exhaust, FMIC and a bit of boost. I would lean towards the VL in this instance, the r33 ecu's are foobar.

hehe.. the 3037pros will lag on the rb20.. I'll keep my eye on that and when he throws it up for sale I will grab it.. hahah

I bought all my bolts from nissan. Cost bugger all but more expensive than if you were to match them up at Coventry Fasteners. The reason I did this as I spent so much time down there trying to find bolts etc that I gave up. They had some but not others, much easier to simply say to nissan, I want these bolts order them.

heheh Don't forget the stock injectors. With regards to its regidity, I've had a VL in the past and it was stiffer than the VS I owned. The pic I've attached.. What chassis rails. The VL's are a nice car though, excellent for their time and long after. Drop a FMIC a bit of boost in to them and they are up around the 180rwkw easily. They weigh in at around 1400kg's so very similiar to that of the R33 GTST.

Be sure to update the thread with the cost, what was done etc.

The rails having a little ding in them is nothing to worry about. I had mine checked and was told the chassis is a mono-chassis therefor its only cosmetic. Cutting holes in your rear parcel shelf would affect the chassis integrity more so. I think asked the bloke about Motor reg, the chassis specialist said they don't really know what they are talking about as there is no way a ding in a chassis rail will affect the chassis integrity in a MONO-Chassis vehicle. But at the end of the day Motor reg will not pass the car with a dinged chassis rail.

So ~4000rpm for what ever boost you dial in to it sounds about right then. It kicks hard you look down and notice the tacho on 4500rpm swinging towards 7000rpm.

I made my own clutch alignment tool as I found the 180b plastic jobbie was a little loose. I've used them in the past on other cars, its not that it doesn't fit its just the plastic tool isn't perfectly spot on and doesn't stop ALL movement for any car. I used a nice long bolt that is used for bolting bolting pergolas etc together. I then grabbed some fuel line hose that fit over it nice and tight, then grabbed an older heater hose that fit over the fuel line perfectly. Pictures tell a thousand words. This tool is so damn tight, so if you make one like it throw a smidge of engine oil on the rubber so it doesn't get stuck. It holds the clutch extremely tight and centered. There's no movement. Gearbox slid in first pop, had to then pull it back out as I forgot to do the clutch bolts up completely tight. lol Second time it also went straight in.

I've fixed the attachment. Its now a pdf, for some reason this new forum corrupts attached zip files.

Looks a little dirty. Its the only pic I could find out of my 6gb worth. Well.. its sort of flush. Its the way these decks are meant to be.

I have a similiar ding in the chassis rail. I would say mines a little worse. I was quoted $300 to get it fixed. Look in the yellow pages for chassis repair. <clicky> Be sure to ring many ppls and find some one that 'likes' the jap imports. I came across a lot of negative feedback. Comments like, they should all be written off, they are dangerous tin cans etc. If you hear anything like that don't bite, simply hang up.

As seen in the 260rwkw rb20det thread... It appears the rb20det's don't start making decent *subjective* power until 4000rpm. Unless you drop a stock turbo on it.

On the dyno a Rb20DET with a gt2530 generally makes 1.1bar around 4k. On the street obviously it will be a little later, say rolling on in second gear may have the car start pulling hard from 4500rpm.

Not that its less noisy but less prone to surge. With the 040 you will have to run a minimum of 1/4 of a tank at all times. Go the GTR pump it will suit your needs.

Do it your self and it will get done right. I know Shaun @ Boostworx does a good job that doesn't make any noise, he's in sa though. There's a DIY guide how to mount a bosch pump intank in the guide section, predator I think did the guide. 040 will do the job BUT they don't mount as low down in to the tank. Grab what suits your needs. A GTR pump may very well supply enough fuel. Chances are it will.

A larger turbine housing will make it slightly more progressive.

All fuel pumps have a nice little buz. When the bosch pumps are mounted badly they tend to vibrate and create a surge grrrrrrrrrrr bad really lound annoying noise. Mine is mounted externally and makes the horrible noise on hot days. As said the horrible noise isn't the usual bzzzzzz, its the grrrrrr rrr r r r rrrr rr

Emanage would work well with an auto setup. nice 3000-3500rpm stall convertor with a tricked up auto would launch damn hard, nice street weapon. Thats when the rb20det box gives way and your left thinking about spending $1500 on an rb25 gearbox + $800 worth of clutch (not inc. labour). For the same money you can get a nice auto setup, depends what you want the car for. I've considered an auto as its a daily driver and I enjoy small squirts fromt he traffic lights up to the speed limit but I have my heart set on the local track.

My 32 has the deck sitting flush.. Looks like a factory fit.

That it is.. Sorry buddy didn't realise. Maybe drop the ppls concerned a pvt message.

The group buy is $1040 delivered to your door. It should be closed, the closing date is the 26th of august. No doubt it will extend due to lack of interest? Slap the link in your sig and become a post whore, a lot of ppls don't look in the group buy section. If you buy through greenline or the likes there is a chance you will get done for GST.

This will no doubt change your plans. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=81906 RB20DET AP PFC $1040 delivered. There's no real need for a hand controller, if it knocks it flashes your dash light, you then know to get it checked out and find out exactly why it is knocking. * The PowerFC runs the rb20det's really nice, like factory if not better, strange enough it felt smoother through acceleration. The stock ECU I had a little bit of an iffy slightly hunting idle, the pfc has got rid of that idle. * The PFC boost control kit works well, an AVCR would be nicer as it allows rpm and gear boost control (Good to aid traction in lower gears). The AVCR being a closed loop boost controller monitors boost level and adjusts the duty cycle in real time to achieve the boost level you have set. This helps prevent the horrid boost drop/tailing off at high rpm when running a turbo near its limits. * Tomei and HKS cams are known to work well. I prefer Tomei. * Fuel pump - Bosch 044, mount it internally. If done correctly they are quiet. * Z32 afm will work fine. * GTR Injectors will be fine, but do remember that you will be up for the cost ($250-$300) + cleaning ($150 + resistor pack ($100 S/H - $190 New)

I've been looking in to it. Drop the subframe. Grab a hole saw, remove the old bushes, smack the new ones in. Drop in a couple of pinapples in to angle the subframe down to help with traction. Bolt it all up. While your there check the diff mount bushes. Likely to be buggered also.

Boost drop is irrelivent when your making 300rwkw from a 440hp or so turbo.

Drag spec Nitto's, RA1's, RE55S.