Cubes

Pics = its condition. scratches, missing clips etc.

Try it ... If it helps with the whine good. If not drop in some thicker stuff, hopefully that would help?!? Mine whines like crap also. I put up with it. First second are extremely noisy, third not so bad, 4th 5th are annoying.

Try it and let us know.. By the way you are talking it sounds as if you box is due a rebuild anyway.

Pics

The number plates transportsa issues don't fit. On the R32 you are required to either bend the edges or trim them. Mine were trimmed neatly, obviously this is illegal but what else can we do? I haven't been pinged for it as they are trimmed in such a manner its hard see unless you get down on your knees.

Its bad for the gearbox. Mine required a rebuild after 30,000km's. The car yard I bought my old VS 5ltr 5speed (now sold) did this to its gearbox. Little did I know until I went to drop the oil as the shifter was locking in to place and became really sticky. It turned out the box required a rebuild as the auto trans fluid stuffed the syncro's, unsure how true it is but apparently the vs 5ltr 5speed had fibro syncro's?!?! Use good old castrol vmx80 or castrol syntrax 75/90 I think it is. If have $100 to throw around drop some redline in to it. I personally think castrol syntrax is just as good.

Mine does this, but much worse. It also steers the car under hard acceleration, mainly in second gear +. Second gear is a little freaky sometimes, feels very drifty. Tramlines easy etc. My subframe bushes are nacked and were leaking.. Stopped leaking now. lol On the dyno it looked as if the rear wheel was going to touch the front of the guard. argg. it also had heaps of toe in as it did so. Unless you have hit something it won't be your control arm. Noltec make replacement bushes for the arse ends of these. They are $190 for the set. Or you could simply throw in the solid alloy's. I personally don't like the vibrations and harshness they cause. Some notice the harshness others don't. I'm a finiky bugger, any rattle, squeek or grind drives me insane to the point where i'm bashing things to try and get it to stop while I drive.

14.5v is fine for a cold start, once everything warms up voltage will drop to high 13's maybe flat 14's. The regulator is designed to feed more voltage in to the battery when it is cold rather than when everything has warmed up. Its apparently the way battery's like to be charged, less volts when warm, more when cold.

Below is what I visualise how a clagged injector could possibly increase fuel consumption. Say we have a clagged injector or two that atomizes badly and flows less. The O2 sensor only views the overall afr, not the individual cylinders. As a result one or two of the injectors will be flowing less and atomizing fuel badly. As a result, less fuel flow in to those cylinders is going to increase the afr that is seen by the ecu via the o2 sensor. As a result the ecu increases duty cycle slightly to bring the 'overall' afr in check. As I said.. That's the way I visualise the inner workings. I would really like to know why some rb's are better than others on fuel. My R32 has always been decent, changed to a bigger motor and its hardly changed, not to mention its always on boost due to the small turbo that is hanging off the side of it. I'm almost scared to swap in some larger injectors. lol

What car was that in Nozilla?

You can fiddle with the afm voltage vs airflow a little when running a pfc. It comes down to having a tuner that knows what he's doing.

Using 2 x RB20DET turbo's I would expect to be all in by at least 4000rpm. I have one on the rb30det at the moment, using 9psi it made 176rwkw. An RB20DET reaches 12psi by 3000rpm or there abouts. The rb20det turbo on the rb30det I find will boost up to 12psi or so by 1700rpm. The probably is it doesn't go anywhere at the afr's state its leaning out. I suspect the stock N/A RB25 cams have too much overlap (8degree's) and the boost is simply being blown out of the exhaust at such low rpm. At ~2000rpm it kicks hard makes 100rwkw and accelerates well. under 2000rpm with more than 6psi tends to feel like a flat spot. As I said.. I suspect the overlap is causing this problem. I would think in twin form they will make probably a max of 550hp.

I can't remember... Is it a standard rebuild or you slapped in forged pistons to lower the comp?

Wire it open your self? You will need some s/steel wire and a little flat head screw driver to pull the circlip off. That way you can simply hold it down. Doesn't really go anywhere without boost but its easy to get a consistent load. Deceleration is also very bad. Drop it in neutral instead of using gears to slow down.

I drove mine up and down the sea front from south up as far north as I could go. Lots of low speed round abouts that see's nice loads when accelerating out. Did you end up wiring open the wastegate so you can get some nice load in to it? Its what I did and basically drove around flat foot N/A. Not one little bit of blow back, zero oil in the intake pipes. With the turbo connected you really can't get much load in to it without going overboard.

I've seen a few XR's getting around locally, there's one that looks awesome, its a V8 and has a nice set of really wide tyres. From the arse end it definitely looks tough. Which remindes me. There's also a XR8 with a little supercharged badge unter the XR8 badge and runs a small FMIC in the stock bumper, its freeking slow.. lol The little R32 making only 176rwkw sat pretty damn close to it, the XR8 was only crawling away (not walking crawling very very slowly).

Whats the use for the car? For general street duty's and the odd track day providing rev's are kept reasonable a set of stock prepped rb26 rods are fine. Order the pistons once its all been measured up and set the quench and comp ratio up exactly the way you want it. Measure each piston and machine the bore to suit that piston. Theoretically the pistons should be all equal, make it a nice motor, double check and tripple check everything.

There's quite a few things you can do to help with traction. Drop a .7 comp cover on the xr6t turbo and it will help smooth out the transition on to boost, helping traction. A good EBC (AVCR) that can alter boost per rpm and even gear is another option also. My first step would be to throw on a set of decent tyres, ditch those 225's and see how you go. Drag spec nitto's, Toyo RA1's etc. Fiddling around with turbine a/r, comp a/r' and a good ebc's would sort traction out, I don't think it would pose too much of a problem for the ls2. It would be awesome. But its only a dream.

The inside of the turbine housing? Does it have daggy cast marks etc or does it look as if its been cleaned up or possibly really good castings? I've seen garret items that look pretty messy inside. Bolts poking through in to the comps airflow stream etc.

lol.. I haven't got around to putting my heatshield back on..

A fine mist of glycol (stuff in the coolant) is extremely flammable. One reason to run a turbo heat shield.

Your interperation of posts is rather strange. Believe me I am not close minded, there's nothing more I would love than a nice LS2 V8 with the APS twin turbo kit bolted on. I bought an import and sold my mildly worked up VS 5ltr 5speed 3.5years ago as I required a car that was cheap, went well, had potential and most importantly good on fuel as I was heading off to full time study at Uni. I also wanted to have a play with turbo. Upon purcahse of the VS Commodore I looked at EL V8 5speed Fords. The problem was trying to find a 5speed V8 96-97 model was impossible. I didn't want the XR or SS's as the insurance for the 'sports' was stupidly high for an under 25. I know the potential of the ford.. lol Its an awesome car that looks good, there's no doubt about that. Power to weight, a GTR with ~275rwkw will be on par with your ford. As Ferni stated, PowerFC, boost, exhaust and adj. cam gear saw his GTR to 270rwkw. If I'm mistaken correct me Ferni. So how can you say thats slower?? The power to weight is the same? I wasn't stating to 'look' for a gtst/gtr with the above power, I was simply stating that is the sort of power they will make to be evenly matched.. Power to weight, its not about brute horsepower. In other words Ferni's GTR would be a very good match out at Mallala or any track for that matter. I would still have to lay my bets on the GTR purely as its 4wd. Not just any 4wd but rwd until it detect's slip then it feeds power to the front.

Nice.

Falcon XR6T, As I said in an earlier post.. Aim for GTST's making around ~255rwkw and GTR's making around ~275rwkw. Same power to weight.

hahah busted.. I've attached a little vid of the 1200hp R33 GTR that does 323km/h. Gotta love the way she sounds as it accelerates from second to third.