Cubes

The boost control is part of the link ecu or your running a seperate ebc?

Your looking at 10k before you even rebuild the motor with forged pistons. Expect to spend at least 15k. Thats not including labour. R31Nismoid is selling his setup for 10k. Well worth it if you ask me, its a fresh motor also.

Very nice. The .7 comp cover over the stock gcg style setup definitely proves worth while. Slap a VG30/R34 hotside on it and you 'may' see 299.99999rwkw.. Wouldn't that be a bugger. So close to the magical 300rwkw mark. How does it hold boost up around peak power? Does it tend to tail off? What EBC are you running? I know of RB25DET with cams making slightly over 300rwkw, Tim Possingham the prior owner of Horsepowerinabox used a VLT turbine housing, unsure of the chra or comp cover, I assume he had it powerported or similiar as the turbo's cost was up at 3k. Works well though, I remember Freebaggin telling me at 17psi it was somewhere up around 280rwkw and would ramp on hard at around 3500rpm.

It comes down to a GTR with around 270-280kw at the wheels has the same power to weight as a Ford XR6T making ~330rwkw. There is no doubt the GTR with its 4wd and lighter weight will be able to corner quicker, change directions quicker, and get the power down out of the corner much quicker. The XR6T's 330rwkw power to weight is roughly the same as a R32 GTST making only 250-255rwkw. Roy's 234rwkw's ET being only 4mph lower and on street tyres is a good indication of this. Then you consider the little GTST's making a shade over 300rwkw with a 5speed will run a low 11, (11.3, I forget the ET) with a set of small slicks. Weight plays a big role. Much bigger than you realise. You can't argue with facts.

Is it looking like one of those 'shit happens' moments or is it related to the assembly?

The mitsi buggered his first attempt also.. He flung the front around after flying back in reverse and cleaned up all the poles.

I must be using crap stuff as it don't work.

What sized turbine housing are you using WhiteR33?

Sounds good. I will look in to it.

Their boostd life is 30,000-40,000km's where as BB turbo's are generally up around the 70,000km mark. If you are not leaning on the turbo hard it will last much longer. Pushed to their airflow limits this is roughly the life you should expect. I'll do those rb20 airflow plot calcs when I get a little time.

And Dinkies...

It still has to be engineered, there's no if's no buts.

This is the solder I use. It has a resin core? Is that the flux? Solder I had some other stuff that was a little thicker and didn't melt to well with my cool soldering iron. It was supposed to have flux in it. I had problems with the solder staying on the soldering iron and not transfering to the wire. The wire would end up having its insulation melted as the only way to get the solder on to the wire was to heat the sucker up. Even then it was still difficult.

My engine number is on the rego papers. Yes, I used the stock ecu for the first ~10,000km's for the run-in. AFR's were perfect and fuel economy was the same as the rb20det. It was fuel cutting on anything over ~7psi or there abouts at around 2500rpm. Nothing an ecu remap couldn't fix. The R33 ECU works perfectly fine. In the early stages of the r33 rb30det thread one of the blokes made ~200rwkw on the stock ecu. No power dips ran quite good. But it did need a bit more cas ignition timing as the rb30det comp was 8.2:1 where as the rb25det ecu was setup for 9:1.

Thats quite amazing really.. Basically 100rwkw less in the GTST yields very similiar mph's.

I've been told that one is required to run it on the stock ecu. Run the larger R33 GTST or R32 GTR brakes. Motor Reg didn't seem to worried about it as they said there would be bugger all in it as essentially its the same motor simply stroked out a little. You would no doubt need an engineer though.

Throw the camera in to macro mode to have some nice crisp close ups. I have settled on a type of hybrid GT30, it will be using the VG30 turbine housing machined up to suit a GT30 -12 chra and .6 comp cover. Should work well, I'm not after insane power but just enough to have really nice down low without lacking top end too much. I'm hoping it will make 270rwkw or there abouts. Maybe stretch to 280-290 with cams.

Its also a 5speed. My others halfs brother has a lease VRX 5 speed from Mitsi's. I'd say it pretty much is as fast, the bottom end poke of the little 3.5ltr is amazing from such a small motor. Quite silly having such a motor in a FWD, rolling on in first has the front 225's smoking by simply mashing the pedal, pretty much you always have to drive around with traction control on unless you are good with throttle control. The latest model is really good with regards to torque steer, the older shape had you hanging on for dear life with white knuckles as you pulled out of a corner. But.. its still a fwd Magna.. lol Move back to RWD and drop a decent twin charged 3.5ltr in to it and it may sell a little better.

The flux pen is nothing like oxy brazing. The flux pen is a pen so you simply 'draw' on both wires, so its not messy. Pool the solder on the soldering iron touch the wires and because the wires have the flux on them its like the wires suck the solder from the soldering iron. I noticed the R31 afm plug was the same also.

I've tried a supposive solder with flux.. Didn't work as good as a flux pen for me.

I wasn't asking what you do. I was asking if the XR6T's have issues with oil surge when running with semi's.

Don't forget your flux pen when soldering, makes solder take to wires so much easier.

How are the XR6T's for oil surge when running semi's?

Boostn32, I was going to assemble my motor myself. I was told for $300 the bloke who was doing the machining would assemble it. The cost isn't in the assemble its in the machining. Its not about being loaded its about aiming for sensible goals... 350-400rwhp out of an rb20 is simply silly, especially if you don't have heaps of cash to throw at cams and headwork. For a drifter all you will need is 220-230rwkw, with that sort of power it will be much easier to drift, having a rb20 that comes up on boost from 6k isn't going to be a very nice drifter. Possibly forget about the rb20 all together, sell your rb20det and buy your self a r32 rb25de, drop a set of forged pistons in that and enjoy your 350-400rwhp, it will be much more reliable as it doesn't need any where near as much boost and as many rev's as the rb20 would.

Ahh yes I saw you there. I left a little early. You may have seen me drive past.