Cubes

That they were.

Yes, I own a R32. Its been an excellent car, was imported privately in 1998, I bought it in 2002 with 67k on the clock. 450pw after tax. Don't get in over your head, it only makes owning the car misserable. Take a step back in to a cheaper model and make it go fast. I would grab a realistically priced R32. Possibly even a 4 door just to stick it up them Commodores. The cheaper car will allow you to have some change left over so that you are able to make it handle and accelerate damn quick. Head down to the local track or Motorkana and have some fun with it. Enjoy the car and use it what it has been designed for.

FC-Logit will do it.

I'm heading down to the Motorkana on Sunday.

Amir, before you jump boat in to a 340rwkw XR6T why not jump in a 270rwkw GTR? The power to weight is very similiar.

My guess it isn't. Clint32 ran a TO4E with a .6 comp cover, 54mm comp wheel, .6 turbine housing and 58mm turbine wheel on his 100,000km' RB20DET. That didn't get going until 5k. I've just had a quick look and it made 234rwkw on 16-17psi.

I was under the impression all US Spec KA24's where open wheelers? I've driven a mild S15 making around 180rwkw.. The diff's in those are awesome and very tight, well until they get hot. They do tend to open wheel when used on the circuit.

I'm unsure what a remap is worth up in your neck of the woods, down in SA I was quoted $600 for a remap. I picked up my PFC for $1100 and tunes are costing me $100 (more boost bigger turbo etc) and $200 when injectors are swapped as it requires a complete light load afr change. I asked what it would be worth to remap the std ecu again to accept the larger injectors. I was told, again another $600. Thats 2 remaps and it would have set me back $1200. I figured within 2 tunes I would have basically broke even with the PFC. The PFC $1100 + $100 + $200 = $1400. To be honest I don't see why they would want to charge $600 to simply swap injectors and dial a little more boost in. The hard work has already been done with regards to the ecu mods.

My point was I highly doubt you are running a .82 at the moment. More likely around the .63 or smaller. That doesn't leave any room for spool improvement. So what turbine a/r are you running?

I am 99% sure the S13's run the bigger drive half shafts. The ones that run from the diff to the wheels that is. 1991-1996 Q45 Infinity has a R200 diff with 6 bolt axles. 3.54:1 Ratio 1997 - 2001 Q45 Infinity has a R200 diff with 5 bolt axles. 3.69:1 Ratio.

From what I've seen, going from a .82 to a .63 or there abouts generally drops spool time by approx 500rpm.

Turbo specs. Turbine a/r?

RB20DET? RB25DET? Give a complete run down on the current specs.. Everything.

Ive seen 234rwkw out of std's with little extra fuel pressure.

*Rego *greenslip *Insurance *Servicing (how often, and how much for the 100k service) *Tyres *petrol *Antyhing else I've missed These are fairly obvious and the same with any car you buy. I would be looking at what has had to be replaced as in repairs due to wear and tear. My self.. I've almost clocked 190,000km's (bought at 67,000) and had to replace the following. Clutch master cylinder x 2 ($63 each) Clutch Slave cylinder x 1 ($40 each) Radiator top tank x 1 ($90 inc labour) Clutch Fan ($~50 second hand) Genuine Nissan Cam belt ($90) Did the water pump at this time also, that was $83. I have replaced a clutch twice, purely for power reasons. The stock gave out due to age. So not really because it 'broke'. With the RB20DET I changed oil and a filter every 10,000km's with at first Penrite HPR10 then I moved on to the cheap Motul mineral oil. The RB30DET gets castrol 10w60 and a K&N Oil filter now. I do all the work on my car myself. I can't afford to waste money getting some one else to do it. Rating 1 insurance is just over $600 per year, 18k agreed value. I had a 1996 VS Exec Commodore prior that was a V8, 5 speed, FE2, IRS, SRS, ABS bilstein suspension all round, hd swaybars, 3.5" exhaust etc etc. and that was costing me $600 even. The VS at the time was valued at 20k.

I am very interestered in a set of RB20DET/RB26DETT injector plugs and boots. Mine are buggered.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=81906 I can get 5+ AP engineering power fc to suit R32 GTST for only $1150 delivered each. If you require the hand controller then the total price is $1470 delivered. Pretty damn good price. You would also get the AP Engineering keyring with that.

Time I emptied the old tea bags and cleaned the spoons I think. lol.

I've taken a few quick snaps of the Ball Bearing Ceramic Turbine Wheeled VG30DET turbo from a Cima/Leopard. Sorry to those dialup users.. First up the comp covers outlet - ~43mm ID The turbine housing just after the first bolt that bolts the turbine housing to the chra - ~50mm The RB20DET's here is ~45mm. A Definite difference in thickness. Furthur down the snail after the second bolt. - ~45mm. Furthur again down the snail displaying the gap between the bottom of the flange and the snail. ~15mm.

Bring the exhaust gas temp up. Retarded ignition timing and or lean out. Ever noticed on R32's when stone cold how she wants to spool so damn quickly, it feels like a slight flat spot and on cruise it almost makes boost.

A 'Good' tune will bring it on a little better and fill the hole. A crap tune will leave it feeling the same. There's a few little tricks one can do to help the turbo spool up quicker.

Hi ppls, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=69487 as seen, the above link's attached archive is becoming damaged and returning an unexpected end of archive error message when opened. I've uploaded it several times with the same result.

I installed an AVCR for a friend of mine. I spliced in to the the relevant wires of the loom and it displays fine. They have simply installed the avcr and not done a 'complete' job. How much did they charge? I had the wiring done in under an hour. I'm rather impressed how well it works. Slightly better than my Blitz SBC-iD. On a small turbo it has absolutely no issues forcing the turbo to hold what ever boost you dial in. Most EBC's that are not closed loop (monitor boost levels and adjust duty cycle to obtain the desired boost level) will tend to tail off boost at high rpm. But only when pushing the turbo to its limits.

I'll be the guineepig. It will only be putting down around 220rwkw but plenty of torque which is what breaks drivelines.

The most i've heard of from a GT30 600hp .82 on pump fuel is 330rwkw or there abouts. Was running 25psi from memory, had cams, inlet & nice tuned length exhaust manifold.