Cubes

I've seen quite good results from shimming diff's. Providing they are treated right and not consistently drifted they are fine and last quite a while. Well worth the $300 odd anyway. He probably didn't want to shimm it.

Sounds the same as mine. Don't fix what aint broke I say. lol

When I looked in to it a reco viscous is not an option as the the thick fluid stuff that makes the lsd a lsd is very very difficult to get a hold of. The only real option is to shim it up. It costs around $350 or so. I'll be doing this as mine is stuffed. Mine has been single spinning out of a corner now for 30,000km's. Its now got to the point where its spinning one wheel in a straight line, it does this in second also. So yer.. no traction for me. Sucks.

Darren, Check the PFC votlage after a good 1hr drive. I find it takes that long for the voltage to drop down to 13.9-13.8v depending on alt load, i.e lights heater etc. From what I under stand a cold battery requires higher voltage to charge where as a warmer battery requires a lower voltage to charge. Once warm or hot more so it should be around the 13.8-13.9v. When Cold it can be anywhere up to 15v depending on how Nissan designed the charging system. I've found a good little test.

I've taken some measurements ppls. The pic with the turbo on the car is the rb20det turbo. It measures up approx 4.5cm's wide. The VG30DET measurement is approx 5cm wide.

I like. Thanks Christian for putting the effort in and 'caring' about the community. People have to realise SAU wouldn't exist if it wasn't for Christian. I'll be making a donation to help out.

There's a SS Police commodore down south that hassles all the boy racers in their silvia's skylines ceffy's etc.. It is definitely a little louder than a stock commodore but still legal sounding. Looked like it got up and went as it hunted down a 180sx. Its no wonder the imports get attention from the police. Head down south on a warm day and watch all the boy racers fly up and down Griffiths Drive doing 100km/h in a 50km/h zone. Jacks me off really, accelerate hard to near the speed limit but there's no need to keep holding it down. Suprisingly 90% of the cars that do this are either Commodores or S13's.

Mine were a tad more expensive than the supercheap ones, + as you said, they didn't have exactly the right ones. The shorter 36cm with the battery clamp was $16.95 and the longer was $14.95. I liked the blue as I might paint my rocker covers a nice blue colour.

A GTST with slicks, 5speed and ~300rwkw runs a low 11sec 1/4. Unsure what sort of power is needed for a high 11sec.

R32 GTS-T. 36cm, Battery to Chassis. 46cm, Chassis to Motor.

Your 11.746 pass is awesome for 253rwkw. What tyres was that run on?

None of the Fords or Holdens in my eyes look as awesome as a GTR. The pumped guards with a nice set of wide tyres looks absolutely awesome. Much more aggressive than any of the AUS cars. The reason I compared the older models of Aussy cars is because the Skylines are an older car.

They are two different cars. Jap cars are little sport cars that have been overengineered. Aussy cars are performance sedans. At this very time in mylife (Uni) I prefer the little jap car. 1. Initial purchase price is cheap. 2. Very reliable due to thier overengineering. 3. Parts dirty cheap ($400 for a gearbox, $300 for a diff, 600 for a motor, $200 for a turbo, $63 for aftermarket clutch master, $40 for aftermarket slave cyl etc). 4. Insurance is cheap for a turbo car with many mods. I pay $600 per year. Insurance you will find is the same as a performance sedan. Grab a quote on a XR6 EL, XR8 EL or SS and you will find the price is the same as an equally valued Jap import. Grab a plain old V8 Commodore or V8 Ford and the insurance is only then dirt cheap. I did however vote for the aussy cars as Ford impressed me with their go at a performance vehicle. The XR6T DOHC 4ltr with its big gt35 huffer is an awesome car with a tonne or TWO (no pun intended) of potential. hehe Holden... Well.. They have always opted to use motors from other manufactures. So no points there. But they do go fast and do look smooth. Ford wins my vote. They look nice and have a better build quality than the Holden. Just need to sort out those diff's, gearbox's and clutches. But thats R&D.. Being an australian car designed for the small Australian public they are unable to spend as much on R&D as the jap company's who have a massive market.

I find the posts are still a touch small, i'm using the Blue Illusion skin. The default is nasty.

What were the super cheap ones like that you got? I had a look at the ones down here and they were skinnyish and had tape that covered the ends instead of shrink.

My understanding is.. Say you had a 260 inlet 260 exhaust.. Drop a 272 exhaust in and it will give you more top end and smooth out mid range torque, make it easier to launch out of corners and give a little more throttle control. Basically make it softer. Drop a 256 or something in the exhaust and mid range will ramp harder. Making it much harder to pull out of corners. For example a race setup. An experienced driver would possibly want the smaller exhaust duration as he has better skill through the corners and can control accleration better. A noob will want the bigger duration exhaust as it will help him with regards to throttle control and help with a little more top end speed to make up for the slower cornering.

Cold start this morning was good. Went for a long drive.. Once hot the voltage drops to a minimum of 13.8v. I checked the voltage via a multimeter and the pfc controller reading appears to be -.2 volts off. So its a steady 14 - 14.1v. Voltages appear to be much better, no big drops when fans, lights etc are used. I'm not sure what guage it is.

GunMetalR33, I am going to go a slightly different way of making similiar power. I am going to use the slightly larger VG30 turbine housing, have it machined and bolt it up to a 700382-12 CHRA. The 700382-12 CHRA is the new gen GT30 comp wheel, it runs the .6 comp cover so it 'shouldn't need a spacer. The stock RB turbine housing is a tad small, consider grabbing your self either a VG30 turbine housing or VLT. However, the VLT turbine housing will require a new dump pipe but they are much easier to get a hold of. With the above setup you will crack 270rwkw easily and possibly even push very close to 300rwkw if not over with a set of cams. 'Should'

Just to note. For some wierd reason the RB20 PowerFC has a different AFM calibration airflow curve to that of the RB25 PowerFC. Looking through a few others i.e S13,S14,S15 etc they all have a different airflow curve calibration for the same AFM?!? I don't understand why they would do such a thing.

I grabbed a couple of earth leads today, Sprint Autoparts had the nicest looking, fattest ad best quality ones. The lights etc now no longer drop engine rev's. Prior cruising at night with the high beam on would see the pfc voltage drop to low to mid 12v. Now it never drops below 13.8-13.9v with everything on, lights, demister, fan on flat out etc. When Cold it sits on 14.5v. Cranking now doesn't drop below 11.3v. Prior it would drop to 9-10v. Cranks over quicker also. Power Windows move up and down quicker when the car isn't running. Definite improvement. $30 well spent. Hopefully it solves the issue of the battery loosing charge quickly with light loads placed on it. I like pics.

jnr32r, Since the RB30 went in all mine does is open wheel. The other day I planted it in second from low rpm, one wheel spun up and ploomed the right wheel guard. Looked cool in the side mirror, reminded me of the 16-17yr old days when I first got my license with the TE Cortina.

Whats it worth per turbo to drop on a steel turbine wheel?

The R200 diffs are quite strong. They don't tend to simply blow, they tend to start openwheeling once you up the power level with a 10+yr old diff. They can be tightened to stop the single spinning for around $350 or so.

I had my rb30 balanced up. Every rod looked like it had been touched, almost every rod bolt. Everything looked like it had been slightly touched to achieve a balance. Even the wiseco forged pistons had a slight nick as they were obviously not all equal. I was suprised when the rod bolts weren't equal weights.

Hi ppls, I've recently had 2 batterys that loose charge really quick with a Radio or interior light on. Say after an hour or two when cleaning the car with the radio on. It does however start the car fine in the morning. If I turn the lights on I can literally watch the battery volts drop from 12.5 down to 10-9.9 within minutes. It drops so quickly. I had the battery tested from the place of purchase and they said it was fine and most probably a bad earth issue. This has only begun happening since I dropped the new motor in. The origional battery began loosing charge quickly after the new motor went in, it was 3yrs+ old so I replaced it thinking it was on its last legs. I dropped the motor in, gave the earth contacts a little scratch but not really as good as it could have been as the block etc was covered in fresh paint. I'll replace the earth leads today and see how it goes. Has any one had earthing issues that results in a battery to loose charge easily? I really don't think this is the issue as a friend Bl4ck32 had the same battery type and it crapped its self in a similiar way after only a few months. I have a 480cc Exide Evolution http://www.exide.com.au/products/index.php