Cubes

RPM points are the X axis every 400rpm, starting from 400rpm. Load points are the Y Axis. I didn't actually measure my belt. It did however fill up the complete cam gear with only a mm or two to spare, so what ever the cam gear width is is pretty much what the 94407 belt is.

Sorry.. I grabbed that number from Ray Hall. His listings appear to be different to that of Garrett them selves. ?!? The real part number for the chra is 700177-0014 according to Ray Hall. I don't understand to be honest as Garrett don't list a GT30R that runs a 64trim comp wheel?!? Comp: 64trim GT40 comp wheel 2.41(61.21mm)/3.22(81.78mm). Turbine: 84trim 2.16(54.86mm)/2.36(59.94mm). I really need to do a bit of reading to understand the trim etc..

Oil change.. Feels the same to be honest, it didn't use a drop of oil and there was no nasty's in either the filter or the bottom of the drain pan. I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money.

To the left of the oil filter. Mine has a blue top. GTR's may be slightly different colour.

The only way the aftermarket management (not safc) could improve fuel economy is to slightly lean it out furthur than 15:1 on light load and cruise. Also extend how long it stays in closed loop mode. Play with ignition timing at light load and cruise. Together it all makes a little difference but not much. If your not getting over 400km's per tank easily then something is wrong. Pull the injectors out get them cleaned, check for airleaks, check compression etc and replace the 02 sensor. Do the cheapest or what appears to be the problem first. i.e if its idling a little rough clean the injectors.

Stuffed CAS.

For those interestered I went for a little drive and did a complete map trace. Lots of light load cruise and a bit of spirited driving through the hills. A few WOT's to 6000rpm also. RB20DET PFC, RB30DET, Stock RB20DET Turbo that initially hits 12psi then tails off to 8-9psi rather quickly.

The R33 sucks its air from the bottom of the airbox. Not like the R32's where it sucks the air from the top of the airbox. Basically it makes it difficult to slap in a great big dirty cai. The only way to get a pod sucking cool air is to put it in to a box. Kind of defeats the purpose, it could also be worse than the stock air box as you won't be sucking evenly through the pod with a box around it. Its stuff all though and I doubt it would make any difference.

I've bought a few bits in the past week or so, GTR injectors (good for ~270rwkw on std fuel pressure) and a vg30det turbo that I have the exhaust housing machined up to suit a GT30 600hp CHRA and .7 comp cover. I've attached a map trace for those that are fiddlers like myself. Its also time for another oil change. I've decided to go with the heavier Castrol 10w60 over the Motul 8100 5w40. I went a K&N Oil filter over the PureOne this time as i'm tired of skinning my knuckles trying to remove the old sucker. My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts). Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil

Nope.. The RB is a 6cylinder (6 injector and 6 coil drivers) The CA18 is a 4cyl so it only has 4 injector and 4 coils. Best bet would be to head over to www.nissansilvia.com

If the the noise can be heard when ever boost (i.e its on full boost by 3000rpm easily) is made I would suggest its an IC piping join leak. As its higher in the RPM (exhaust back pressure in the exhaust manifold) I would suggest a gasket.

Check the cam timing.. Different cams won't cause it not to start. Hell the stock ecu ran the rb30det in fine and that was running a rb25 head with different cams, bigger valves and bigger ports. I'd be inclined to say the cam timing is out. Its very simply to do.. Line up the crank at TDC then the both cams at TDC. If the dude doing the engine swap can't find the marks or doesn't know where to look I would seriously doubt is ability.

Its more of an issue for the R33 blokes but with the R32's you can slap a great big dirty 100mm cai in to the bottom of the stock air box.

Through a RB25DET 5 speed. I found it quite interestering the before and after... No doubt air temps and dyno differences make a difference. But non the less it was interestering to note. I can't remember exactly how much boost, it was running but it was somewhere around the mid 20's.

I know of a RB25 with 26 internals, big cams, head work the works make 580hp (432kw) on an engine dyno with a GT30 600hp .82 Garrett turbo. On the rolling road it made 335rwkw or there abouts. Thats 97rwkw drive train loss??

N1 water pumps work well at the track. High rpm = water cavitation.. Which is something the N1 water pump doesn't do.

lol... Patience is a virtue. One will show up. I wouldn't ring the jap import places asking for a damaged one, I would personally go down there and check every individual turbo for stuffed bearings. Then say.. oh this ones farked.. I'll give you $100 for the exh. housing.

Sambo33, I was conservative and hung off before taking the jump to synthetic. I used Penrite run-in oil for the first 1500km's, did 3 oil and filter changes. One after a couple hundred then the other 2 every 600-700 or so. I then ran Motul Motion 10w30 Mineral oil until the motor clocked up 10,000km's. Within the 8500km's I did 2 oil changes, each at ~4000-5000km's. I then went to Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40. With regards to how the car was driven, I wired open the wastegate so I could get plenty of load on the motor without boost flicking up to 10psi and creating to much load. The car went on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing, I rev'd it to 3500rpm and drove with a flat foot everywhere for the first ~1000km's. After that I began to rev it a little more ~5000rpm. I only had it tuned and boost hooked back up once i got synthetic and the PFC in to the car which was at 10,000km's. So it had lots and lots of time for the rings to bed in and properly as I could get a nice amount of load in to her. Even though I'm running the largest recommended bore to piston clearance for 24+psi and race use it uses zero oil and has no oil in the intake piping. It did use a little oil and had oil in the intake piping up until around 1,500km's. It has slight piston slap on cold starts but goes away very quickly. I was told by the engine builder not to jump in to synthetic too quickly as by doing so can only cause harm, not doing so won't cause any harm but only potentially good.

haha.. Sorry buddy.. Its going on the RB30DET. The stock turbo doesn't suit the 3ltr at all. The power band is in completely the wrong area's. It pulls super hard from 2000-3500rpm then keeps pulling but not as intense, I then change up at 5k, reving just that bit more see's the next gear really suck as it drops the next gear out of accelerating power. Come the new year I will machine up the exhaust housing to suit the GT30 600hp core. Hopefully it works well. I will obviously have a discussion with a few turbo specialists as the 600hp core 'may' flow too much air for the hot side to cope with creating surge etc.. Not something I want.

Thats correct, it most probably is a turbo from a 300ZX. The turbo you need is NOT the one from a 300ZX but rather Cima/Leopard VG30DET that made 190kw at the fly in factory form. From memory they are around the year of 1992+. The very late models apparently had the largest of the turbo's, i've unable to find out for sure as every one imports the older VG30DET's from around 1992. The pics I attached previously was a VLT turbo. As I said prior also they are similiar to the single turbo 300zx. I've taken a few pics of my Cima/Leopard VG30DET Turbo.

West, Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not? The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot. For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory. 102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

I should also state that 145psi across all 6 cylinders in the rb20det was exactly the same as it was when I bought the car on 67,000km's. Compression is affected by cam, cam timing etc.. Overlap bleeds off compression, as a result show a lower compression.

My old RB20DET did 170,000km's, 100,000km's of that was running 1bar and ~164rwkw. I occasionally threw it on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing to ensure they fuel pump wasn't going bad etc.. Keep them running well and you won't have any problems for hundreds of thousands of kays. The motor still had good 145psi in all 6 cylinders when I pulled it out.

Keep an eye on the knock reading and you will be fine. If you find it knocks at highrpm pull 2 degree's out of the load points wot uses. I have known a one person that had the stock base map knock due to too much ignition timing. It does run super rich so going lean is nothing to worry about.

I require an IC that has the inlet/outlet located in the center of the core. Are any floating around that you know of?