Cubes

The VLT Exhaust housing is around the .63. From my understanding the Z31 300ZX turbo has the same hot side but runs a crappy small comp and turbine wheel. I've attached a pic of a VLT 550hp highflow turbo. Unsure on the exact specs but it was apparently a little laggy on the rb30et.

RB25 Series 1 pump bolts up no problems. Its what I am using. Series 2 pumps use the larger crank engagement.

The motor mag or one of those has a review on it. I think the front looks a little different to that pic, the mag pics actually look a little better.

The 300zx/VLT turbine housing is fine to use.. Its not a simple bolt up, it requires a new dump pipe. I know of a bloke making over 300rwkw using a VLT exhaust housing and some GT30 or 35 thing on his RB25DET with cams. I'm unsure exactly what comp wheel its running.

Thats with regards to peak power but how does it affect mid range etc? Can the theory be applied so to speak? I have know ppls fit up 3.5" exhaust and picked up quite a bit of mid range and turbo spool but still made the same peak power.

I assume APS decided to go a 2 x 2.5" system rather than a big 3.5" single. 2 x 2.5" keeps drone to a minimum on the big ford six. Head over to the LS1 forums and you will see the 2 x 2.5" systems are quieter than the 3.5" singles on the v8's also.

2 x 2.5" from a nice 3.5" or 4" dump works very well. Its amazing how quiet a twin system is compared to a big 3.5".

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic. The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic. The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

On the RB30 a gt35r with a .82 turbine will make what ever boost you throw at it by 4000rpm. Throw on another 500rpm for the rb25.

They are obviously a completely different car to that of the old VS. I used to jack the car up and once accidently opened the car door. I wasn't able to close the door until I dropped the car back on the ground as the chassis twisted a good 10mm and the door latch no longer lined up. Reading the manual it stated 'do not open the car door while the car is jacked up' lol

Well... Won't I be scouring the LS web sites looking for your car and mods. hehe If the pic isn't a photochop.. Awesome. Nothing better than big cubes + forced induction. There's no replacement for displacement..

I've had a VG30DET on the old RB20DET and pulled it off because it laaaged too much. But yes.. I've got injectors etc now so I can bolt the vg30 turbo on. Uni's started back up so its finding the time. This new years I'll be buying a GT30 SB8006A chra and .7 comp cover and have the vg30 turbine housing machined up to suit. Should work well and be a little more efficient at higher boost levels due to the .7 comp cover.

I've had a few turbo's in and out of the car. All stock Nissan items. VG30DET, RB20DET etc. Off the car they spin freely but don't really keep spinning when I let go of them. Once installed on the car and they get some oil pressure in to them if I pull off the piping and then spin them they will spin for quite some time if I give it a little spin by hand. I often hear the stock item spinning down after idle.

Some like to run leaner with less ignition timing and some richer with more ignition timing. But generally they end up making roughly the same power. Personally I like the richer with more ignition timing method. A tune should consist of fiddling with cam centerlines and combine that with the fuel and ignition setup. I could then see a 50rwkw difference. Apart from that I doubt it would vary by anymore than 20rwkw or so by only tuning via the ign. and fuel maps. That is providing the tuner isn't completely stupid and pulls shiet loads of ignition timing out. This is dangerous in its self as less ignition timing = a higher EGT. Exactly why I like the richer and more ignition timing. Lower EGT.

Whats that little shinny thing sitting in the front bumper behind your number plate Vuster? Are you going/have gone forced induction on the beast?

The VS went fairly well after a few mods. That was the end of the road for it unless I wanted to go a huge fuel swallowing cam or forced induction. I'd say the VS was as quick as my R32 once the R32 was making around 150rwkw. That is Exhaust and 12.5psi from the R32.

I've owned a VS 5ltr 5speed. Spent a little on the motor & suspension only to have the stock gearbox pop, stock diff pop and the rear IRS subframe split from one of the diff mounts like a can opener attacked it. Simply looking at the design of the VS IRS rear end to that of the Nissan R32/R33 rear end you can see how the Nissans rear end looks that much tougher. It was fine for a daily commuter but anything more and it simply broke. The Nissan I now own has taken a beating so much more abuse and simply holds together, even with an extra 72% more power. 3years later and 120,000km's the only parts I've 'had' to replace due to breakage (not consumables such as clutches, brakes etc) is a radiator top tank, clutch master and slave cylinder, a few heater hoses which is to be expected with 188,000km's on the clock. Things may be different now.. I don't know how current gen commodore driveline, diff's and chassis hold up to more power than stock.

The RB30ET VLT damper tend to have major issues at around 6500rpm. The std RB20/25/26DET damper are supposed to have issues around 7500rpm. I'm not willing to find out. Much cheaper to simply grab a better damper. Browsing through the ATI's www site I noticed they list a rebuilding tool set that enables one to 'tune' the damper to suit the application. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/prod...rs/damperparts/

The GT35R is good for an easy 350rwkw.

hahah.. Sounds like a few lines I have thrown my other half. Here's a few. I need a new motor as this one has done quite a few kays and is 13yrs old, if we want to drive interstate we should really have a reliable new motor. I need a PFC as the tune isn't the best and it will stuff the motor up if we drive interstate, it will also return better fuel economy. I need injectors as they are maxed out and its dangerous for them to be running like that, the current ones are buggered and new ones that flow better will return better fuel economy for the drive interstate. I need a bigger turbo as this one is running at its max all the time which is going to have it blow soon, if it blows it may damage the motor and we don't want it blowing while driving interstate.

ALSO.. The RB20DET would need around another 6-7psi of boost as the head doesn't flow anywhere near as good. So.... your highflow turbo would have to be efficient at around 22-23psi and have an intercooler good enough to drop the inlet temps to the same as if it were running 16psi, thats to make 218rwkw with it on the RB20DET. I would be curious if the theory held true. 22-23psi is a lot to hold right to redline, I suspect it will drop boost as it will run in to choke.

I remember it was $568 AUD not including shipping. I've got the link somewhere, they ship to AUS from the US. I have no idea what shipping would be for an item such as this.

I am going to look at one of the ATI dampers for my RB30 once it hits the track. No doubt it will help the rb30 hold together a little better at 6500rpm+. From memory they are around the $500-$600 mark correct?

Bl4ck32. The reason your bush highflow is spooling like a stock turbo now is due to the rb30. On the RB20 I remember it used to hit hard around 4000rpm. When Mark owned it that is The RB30 has ample exhaust gas to spool the turbo. My stock rb20det turbo on the rb20det use to be on 1.1bar by 3000rpm in 3rd gear and over. Second accelerating out of a corner at say 2000rpm would have it kicking me in the arse as well as a stock turbo can by 3500rpm. -------------- The GCG Highflow using the VG30 exhaust housing hits hard around 3700-3800rpm as stated previously. On the RB20DET slap another 500rpm + a softer hit, in other words it will spool up to what ever by ~4300rpm, it won't simply hit hard but more so be more progressive this is 'gay'. I personally think its a bad combo on the rb20. Stick with the stock exhaust housing a keep the nice turbo kick in the arse feel. I am going to buy a SB8006A GT30 600hp CHRA and a .7 comp cover, then get my vg30 turbine housing machined up to suit the VG30 turbine housing. On that note have you considered doing some thing similiar? On the RB20 I would consider a GT28 CHRA .6 or .7 comp cover and machine up the stock rb20 turbine housing to suit. GT28 vs the GT30 you would really have to think about it and talk to a turbo person who knows their stuff. I personally would use the GT28 CHRA if I had an RB20. Which I don't so :lock: The larger comp cover will no doubt be more efficient at high boost levels compared to machining up the small high boost restricting stock comp cover.