Cubes

If its worse in the cold that would suggest its possibly leaning out. Cold air = denser air that requires more fuel. Have you had it on the dyno?

Thats bad, I think I would walk around the house majorly depressed if that happened to my freshly built motor. Have you got a gut feeling on what it may be? Tuning, Machine work/assembly or support system failure?

Practically, it is a boost controller as it allows you to control the level of boost. It does not control boost by bleeding off, more so via the seat tension created on a ball bearing. It cannot, by any means, be related to that of a hole in a hose bleeding off boost. ThermoKid, What are you doing on this site if you are not a Pleb your self? If it wasn't for us plebs there would be ZERO, hear a ZERO, requirement for automotive performance. lol Those of you who have had issues with it; either you have received a dud, or have an installation problem.

The RB25/20 exhaust a/r is apparently not a .63. It really is a .48. The VG30 exhaust a/r is a .63 or there abouts.

Why not list the specific mods? You car is legal right? So there should be no problem. Unless you go listing your home address for ppls to come and rip your car off. I'm sorry, I really don't understand your line of thought by not sharing with us exactly what you had done and what was engineered.

I think you should simply throw it on a dyno and see whats going on. Having an injector duty of 80-90 or what ever it was on idle is very wrong.

Valvoline filters are bad. Far from being high performance. lol I wouldn't go past genuine ~$no idea, Purulator (~$7), PureOne ~$14. I'm currently running Mutol 8100 5w40. Its a pretty damn good oil but I am considering making the jump to Castrol 10w60.

Mine does the same. More so after a bit of driving and everything under the engine bay warms up. It did it with the old rb20det and also with the new motor. Its been good for a few weeks now though. lol

Nissan sell a VRS kit that is ~$275. It includes all top end gaskets. Head gasket, rocker cover gaskets, intake manifold, plenum, exhaust, valve stem seals (when reco'ing the head) + a few others bits and pieces.

Clutch master done. I didn't have time to fiddle with the pedal box today as I buggered around removing the little silly box that locate between the master and the slave cylinder. I simply straightened the end section of the old metal piping then rebent it so that it mated up with the rubber hose that then runs to the slave cylinder. The clutch seriously feels so much better now. Seriously I tell you. I swear it feels lighter, more springy and much more progressive. Previously it was very bitey now it is much nicer to drive. Ignore the rust mark on the floor pan. Thats an old heater that went pop under the inlet manifold. The camera really shows it up as orange. I should clean it up really.

Whats will all the other hosing that T's off here and there? Run a simple hose from the compressor housing or plenum straight to the bleeder then straight to the wastegate actuator. Pull it apart and check the spring isn't caught on the bleeders relief hole burr.

Boost is not your friend. Airflow is, use the search button.

Does that person want your r33 rb25det head? Use the same model head as that of your car, for one it already has the good valve springs. The vct oil galley issue is minor and nothing to worry about.

Your clutch was bleeding off like mine. Its farked, I'm telling you now. I held my foot slightly on your clutch pedal and it went half way to the floor. Exactly what mine WAS doing.. Now it goes straight to the floor and makes nice squishy sounds. Having a clutch that isn't bled correctly will cause you to crunch gears and not dissengage the clutch completely.

So you had a tune? What ECU Are you running? PFC, Wolf, Autotronic etc? 350ikm's per tank is shocking to start with. You obviously have issues. You should be easily over 400km's nudging 500km's per tank. Replace your oxygen sensor, check your cat, injectors, afm, cas the list goes on. My RB30DET is nudging close to 500km's per tank. Yours is 500cc less, mine is on boost from idle (stock small rb20det turbo) I should be using more fuel than you.

You had a dud newy did you not? I learnt how to drive with no clutch in my first car. The TE Cortina's used to have a surclip to adjust the clutch cable, the damn things would always flick off leaving no clutch.

I run wiseco forged pistons in my RB30DET. The pistons I use are to suit the RB25DET with a 14cc dome. I run the largest recommended bore to piston clearance of 0.0040, this is to suit 24+psi and or race use. The have a slight slap on cold start that sounds like a quiet noisy cam. Only I can hear it, my other half can't, either can my old man. On a cold start I get a maximum knock of 10 on the PFC H/C, idle it sits on 1. Cruise knock sits on 1, even when cold. Once warm at WOT, the max knock I get is around 18. Light load up hill accelerating might see a knock of 4-5. With the standard recommended bore clearance the Wiseco's have absolute zero slap on a cold start. Run thier largest recommended clearance and they will have a real slight slap on idle that as said, can be mistaken for a noisy cam. I've now done around 20,000km's on the motor, still perfect. I suspect the tuners fiddled with the light load ignition map, causing detonation under light load. If you have time write down the ignition map and post it up. I will let you know whats been modified. I once bumped up my light load ignition map and noticed high knock readings at cruise when the motor was cold. I put this down to the richer mixture was burning quicker as a result knocking as obviously peak combustion pressure was occuring too early.

Its the blokes down at ACBS that warned me away from Synthetic fluid. I couldn't believe my chances though, just pick the master cyl up and mine completely pops, I drove home rev matching, switching off at traffic lights, in to first and crank the key. lol

My clutch started playing up a few weeks ago, bleeding off slowly when I held my foot on it. Today I thought well.. I'd better get myself a clutch master cylinder. Down to All clutch and brake services. Grabbed a master cyl for $63.50. On the way out it felt as it usually did bleeding off. Up to the corner of South Road and I totally lost my clutch. Bugger. While i'm changing over the master cyl. this weekend I'll take pics and weld up my clutch box so that its just that little bit stronger. Also just a note to ppls. DO NOT RUN SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR CLUTCH Use the normal run of the mill castrol stuff in the red bottle, not the silver bottle. Apparently Synthetic fluid in the clutch buggers them up as synthetic clutch fluid doesn't offer as much lubrication. They are not designed for it. Possibly why this master cylinder didn't last too long. I ran Synthetic in it for most of its life.

The base map is tried and proven Well light load anyway.

Every car is different, the only area it will be very similiar is the light load areas of the map. Do a quick map trace and see what load point it drops to. Go to that area of the map and drop ignition timing to around 15degree's. This will prevent it pinging. Just to be safe. From memory you will be running insane ignition timing at WOT, not good for a high comp rb25det. Drive it and get it tuned.

nah buddy, no crankiness. It was bed time when I wrote that last post so it was short and sweet so to speak. When I have some time, out of my own curiosity I will do the rb20det's airflow calcs and plot them on the compressor map. I still think the TD06 is one of the best matches to the rb20det, with the right exhaust housing that is. The boost you run is irrelivent anyway. Its the power you make that matters. Slap that same turbo on a RB25DET and you will find to make the same power you will need around ~6psi less. Thee's also the reliability issue of running such high boost all the time, not so much the engine but the poor old bush style turbo that requires rebuilds every 40,000km's, and thats with a fairly normal life, not 25psi.

The engine very well may be still within the compressor map at 1.5bar on the rb20. Slap the same turbo on a rb25 and it may be stepping out side of the map at only 1bar. You really need to do engine airflow calcs then work out what what the X-axis values on that damn compressor map are in.

22psi will run in to choke at higher rpm's. I'm trying to explain it in lamens. Imagine plotting on the graph, as rpms increase at a certian boost level the engine consumes more air, i.e the plots will slowly move to the right. Running a constant 22psi right near the edge of the map, the turbo is able to flow less air than a PR of ~2.3 or 19psi. So theoretically you will be better off running 19psi at high rpm as it will get you the most out of the turbo. I'm not 100% on all the comp maps etc but I do have a rough idea. There's still a few things I don't understand 100%.

Bass Junky, Does it look bigger? Do some measurements through the center of the exhaust wheel to where it looks like the gasket or what ever bolts up. Basically the largest wheel that can be machined to fit. I've done a few measurements on the vg30det turbine housing and it looks the largest it can be machined out will suit the GT30 600hp, I wouldn't want to machine up the stock comp cover to suit the 600hp core. The only difference between the GT30 600hp core and the GT35 core is the turbine wheel is slightly smaller. From memory 7-8mm. It 'may' be possible there is enough meat in the vg30et/RB30ET turbine housing to fit in the GT35R core.