Cubes

I wouldn't risk it. Not for the price of a second hand RB25DET or even RB20DET pump. RB30E flows less oil and has less oil pressure. That higher oil pressure will be required for a motor that rev's higher.

You think wrong. hehe On the stock ecu, mine stumbled and spluttered exactly the same. Exactly. The only way I have been able to get rid of it is to richen up the water temp fuel compensation tables once I got the PFC. I've heard other R32's with stock ecu's stumble splutter, I've also heard other PFC equiped R32's stumble splutter then a stab of the accelerator brings her to live. It appears to be something other than the ecu, battery etc. I think it is fuel related. Remember mine didn't 'always' do it but 90% of the time. Once it even went a few months starting perfectly then it went back to its usual splutter. Maybe its an earth issue, playing with the battery has temporarily fixed it.

I've got the same problem. I suspect its my injectors. I've replaced battery's etc.. no difference, does spin over quicker though. Mine doesn't always do it but most of the time it does. Within the pfc controller if I richen up the water temp compensation for cold start the idle stumble goes away. So mine appears to be fuel related.

The Rb25DET and R32 GTR pumps flow are the same. I remember there was a thread on SAU/SDU some where, the bloke pulled apart both oil pumps to find they are exactly the same internally. I run a Rb25DET pump in my RB30DET.

I thought I will post a few pics that I've gathered around abouts.

Microtech = bad fuel economy. I like my 450km's per 50litres with the rb30det. Light load hasn't been tuned yet, its with a stock turbo boosting from 1000rpm, once the bigger turbo is on it should return better fuel economy the same if not better than the rb20det was returning. 470km's per 50litres.

Nissan or UAS (www.nismo.com.au)

How was it being driven? Lots of rev's? Maybe a missed gear?

I'm keen to hear the answer on this also. EDIT: Also Maxx, I've got another RB30E in the shed.

Where did the rb20det pump fail? Cracked or backing plate? You can use the R32 GTR N1 pump that doesn't require a collar. Or you can go for the R33 GTR N1 pump that requires a collar. The reason for the collar is it enlarges the crank to oil pump drive gear engagement.

My AP Engineering PFC runs my rb30det fine. Hell even the stock rb20det ecu ran the rb30det fairly well, the stock rb25det ecu runs the rb30det better again.

I'm curious as to why people decide not to use Wiseco's?

My oil pressure guage tends to be a little dicky at times in hot weather. Mostly when things under the bonnet get really hot after a long drive. Its not the motor as it was the same on the perfectly fine rb20det. Basically on idle the needle will drop to just over the zero, then reving will be only up to the first line, then all of a sudden it will flick up to 4-6 then may drop back down. As I said its definitely the guage and or pressure sensor as it has always reacted the same on the old motor and the new motor. Its fairly common for the std nissan sender to bugger up. I'll be going an aftermarket item next time round.

I thought i'd make it clear. I'm not in the group buy. But I am interestered in a 044. I am able to get it cheaper through a friend.

I didn't run monograde but rather the Penrite Run-In oil for the first 1500km's. I did quite a few oil/filter changes within this period. I then ran a std mineral oil until 10,000km's just to be sure, I figured there was nothing to loose by doing so. Changing too early depending on rings and bore hone type can be a bugger. Showing pics to RIPS he said by the look of my bore hone I would want to make sure i get plenty of load in to it. So I drove around with a flat foot (wastegate wired open) up until ~3500rpm and there is zero oil in the inlet pipes.

BOOSTD, That VG30 you played with.. What is the exhaust a/r on that?

1979 TE 4.1ltr 4speed Cortina burn out machine. Had some awesome fun in that car and was suprisingly quick for what it was. It had a mild cam, holley and extractors. Peak power felt as if it was some where just before 5000rpm. Had no problems pulling away from friends cars, VN v6, VN 5ltr, HQ 4door 5speed 308, 13B N/A RX7 S3. I ran 235's on the rear, it used to launch off the line like nothing else. And burnouts.. First second in to third on the spot.. To hold it down the road second was required, third would die off. I went through 6 4speed second hand single rails (a couple broke teeth, and the rest were bearings and selector forks). I learnt how to rebuild the gearbox and after that it held for 1year without breaking.. Only 1 diff. Awesome car handled well too as it had lowered springs and gtgas shocks. I remember my old may taking me for a drive in it and saying, you can either have this or a Mustang style celica 4cyl.. I said.. Whats this? he said 6cyl 4speed, I thought thats got to be quicker than a 4 banger. Sold it, saved for my VL Commodore while I drove around in a little 4cyl Corolla, had the vl for 1year sold it for the VS 5ltr 5speed. That went through every drive line part imaginable inc a split rear subframe, so i sold it after 9months and bought the R32 Skyline. I've now had this for a little over 3years. THREE YEARS.. Says something I thinnk.

I went a second hand low km RB25DET oil pump for $100-150 I forget exactly, the rb25 pump is actually the same as the std. R32 GTR pump. Lots of oil pressure. Over 8 on the stock guage when cold, when warm 4000rpm+ sees oil pressure nudging 7. cruise is 2, idle is just over the first line. To be honest the DET doesn't see that many more rev's over the SOHC. Around 1000rpm or so, say 6000rpm peak power providing your hot side is free flowing.

haha, yes I did dribble on a little didn't I. Once you have oil pressure and the lifters are pumped up the RBDET's are interference. I don't know why as it should matter but its the way it is. RB20DET's are free running but once actually started and running the pistons smack the valves. Only slightly I suspect as Bl4ck32's only lost valves in 2 cylinders. The others had obviously hit but didn't completely snap. lol

haha... Darren, if you loose all your electrics you won't be going anywhere.

No such thing.. Ever car is different as its exhaust, fmic etc differ. What will work for one with basic mods will cause spikes and or overboosts on another that has a better or worse exhaust, fmic etc.

Electric.. Safer and one less thing the policemen can defect you for.

Comp ratio will be out.Obviously you will have to use a set of pistons from a turbo model OR a set of forged.

Oil squirters are block mounted. You can machine, drill and tap them. RB25de plenum only differs in that it doesn't have the nipple for the bov's inlet plenum air pressure. You can simply T off the carbon canisters hose if need be. You only have to look at the two motors to realise that the r33 plenum is designed different and will not bolt up no matter how hard you try. Pop down to your local wrecker, bring a digital camera and check out rb25det, rb20det and an r32 rb25de.

Whatsisname also had issues with the BCPR6ES plugs missfiring. He went the BK or something.. It should show up in a search some where. I use the BCPR6E plugs. They are the v-groove plug, I've found them to feel a little better than the standard non-vgroove plugs. The S plugs at 16psi on the rb20det used to have a little bit of a flat hessitation feeling where as the V grooves didn't. I leave them in for 20k then pull them out. I've had them in for as long as 40k and they still appeared ok when I pulled them out, no miss-firing etc. There are 2 plug gaps. 1.1mm or .8mm The .8mm plugs have nothing after the part number i.e BCPR6E The 1.1mm plugs have a -11 after the part number i.e BCPR6E-11 I use and always have used the BCPR6E plugs. They are pretty rare, Motor Traders keep them. They are $16.50 inc gst for a set of 6. or... $2.75 inc gst.