Cubes

Nothing was mentioned about a wheel. It was the vg30 turbine housing machined to suit the gcg rb25 450hp highflow turbo. Fitting a VG30 exh. housing on the rb25 turbo will give you a little more top end, it simply bolts up and doesn't require any machining. However, you will loose a little mid range, possibly loose average power also, this 'may' make the car accelerate slower even though its making more peak power. It really should only be done in with a compressor and turbine wheel upgrade. Hence highflow. $600 will get you nothing. What power and mods do you have now?

Hi SK, After a little investigating it appears the rb20's airflow value at load point 20 is roughly the same as the rb25's airflow value at load point 15. Oosh, You are spot on, all it does is reduce the resolution, the rb20 map reference with the rb30 is fairly usless as to use load points 5-12 you really have to concentrate to only ever so slightly touch the accelerator. Bigger motor drawing more air the 2.5ltr reference map suits it much better.

haha

6kpa.. Is this a RB20DET or RB25DET? I find the RB25DET oil pump shoots oil pressure up over 8kpa in the mornings. Once warm and with over 4000rpm on board oil pressure is around 6.5kpa.

May I ask which boost controller you are using?

The comp and turbine housing size doesn't tell us anything. Wheel trims etc do. .48 is a touch small for a RB25 though. Don't expect anything spectacular out of it.

There are a few different VG30DET's. The conventional sleve bearing and the roller bearing. Is it possible the turbine housings are exactly the same 5 bolt pattern? Pics would be great, I went to check out a VG30 turbo down at D1, the exhaust housings looked only ever so slightly bigger than the rb20 item they had sitting next to it. I had a VG30 I bought from JMS some time ago, I went through 2 of them before giving up and getting my money back, the first one squeeled constantly, even on idle. The second had a squeel for a fraction of a second at around 9psi when coming on to boost. oh yer.. lol That VG30 looked actually quite a bit larger than the rb20 item.

Keep it looking nice. Make it a bit of an Auto sling shot off the line.

The tt's fitted to the trucks also have to meet ADR's. So really.. Its not just a turbo timer, its a turbo timer designed to meet ADR's. The intended use of cars doesn't warrant a turbo timer.

OR... A crying baby in the back seat. Per birth, It goes up to $4000 this July.

There's no comparison between a car and a truck. A truck is constantly up its turbo, simply turning off the motor WILL coke the oil lines. In a car that most of the time isn't boosting hard, its not an issue. No doubt if there was a reliability issue in passenger vehicles the ADR's would have it incorporated.

The R33 item 'may' work if you change the pinouts. You will need to dload the manual and compare.

It is still running the little rb20det turbo that makes its peak power around 4400rpm so no doubt that is causing the lack of traction, hopefully the larger exhaust a/r vg30 turbo will smooth it out a little. I've been talking to GCG, they have said 260rwkw from their rb25 highflow is around the mark so they seem to think the vg30 turbo with its larger exhaust a/r will allow the turbo to make close to 280rwkw. I would be happy enough with that. Especially considering it won't be laggy and still get up and move from 3000-3500rpm onwards.

FAT32, Be sure to get a decent ebc that monitors boost levels and adjusts duty cycle to suit. Something like an AVCR or Blitz SBC-iD.

Thanks Steve, some good info there. I'll be replacing my subframe buses with the Noltec jobbies and also slap a set of pinapples in there for good measure. I'm also going to drop in a tightened up S13 3.9:1 diff as the 4.363:1 tends to feel as if you don't get to use the torque of the 3ltr. I'm bolting a VG30DET turbo that should see me slightly over 200rwkw. It will do for now until I sort out the traction issues. As Darren is all too aware it really sucks the way it is setup now. I literally cannot bring it up on boost in first, second axle tramps like all bugger leaving you all the way through second trying to play with the accelerator to get some power down.

My experience with wheel bearing and diff whines is the diff whine is generally a high pitch whine where as the wheel bearing is a roooorooooroooor type noise that increases with speed and or corner load.

wow... I've made a shiet load of posts.. 4.77 per day or something. Who can beat that?

Thats bullcrap you lost your $200 deposit. You have every right to get that $200 back as the car was not in the best condition. The motor with low oil pressure alone indicates stuffed bearings, it requires a rebuild. Unless you didn't state you will buy the car only if it comes out ok from the inspection. It obviously didn't.

Better 'average' power, response and fuel economy. A motor will also make its best power with the pistons ever so slightly kissing the head. Not something you really want to do though.

This was back when I was 16-18 roughly. I had a little old TE Cortina 4.1ltr 4speed that was lowered and loud with a nice holley and cam. So I was a bit of a hoon, some of the stupid stuff I used to do I wouldn't even dream of doing now. Its amazing how you take risks when you are young. One time on xmas i was pulled over for hooning around a corner, cop said.. "What are you late for a tom cruise lamb roast" It only makes sense if you were around when they had that tv advert on tv. so i replied.. no... A the sphincter of the universe. He didn't find it funny. I was tempted to say a pork.. lol

Down south they definitely do. I had a little incident with a couple of police cars once, since that day up until I moved out of the area I was always pulled over just for a chat and to see what I was up too. lol Often by different police so it wasn't a get to know the car thing.

All of which are important once you reach the limitations of the stock afm/load point base map setup. Swapping to a Z32 or VH41/Q45 AFM does zilch in its own. Software is required. There's also the A/C and non a/c overheat fan temp switch. I'm going to have it so my A/C automatically turns on the overheat fan when engine temps are over 86degree's. It will save me wiring up a relay to the a/c to automatically switch on the fan.

lol... Mr. Nozilla.. Your a post whore.

heheh your on their record now. Expect to be hassled more.