Cubes

As a general rule if you can't get squish under 50-60thou you should completely remove the squish as leaving it there will only increase detonation. This supports SK's thoughts.

Agreed, bran spanker, it is a good price.

wow.. I bought mine second hand with h/c for $1100 inc. delivery. wahahahaha

220rwhp (164rwkw) is around the mark.. Thats around 80% duty. 92% duty really is too much to make an extra 10rwkw or so.

Are you talking factory glass tint or tint that is fitted aftermarket and bundled with the car after purchase. My oldies have bought a few new cars recently, New Nissan Patrol 3.0TDI, then sold a year later and bout a v8 Landcruiser. They requested window tinting, the Nissan didn't have the front windows tinted where as Toyota had no issues tinting the front windows. I can't remember the % tint allowed on the front windows but I do remember what it looked like, I honestly couldn't tell there was tint.

RB25de and rb20det injectors are exactly the same.

Mine is the stock turbo. I simply drive lightly for the last minute or so before I reach my destination. Even then a little squirt here and there under street driving conditions hardly heats the turbo and oil up enough to warrant having the car idle for 1min or so. BUT what I don't do is burn up the driveway and instantly kill the motor, I let it idle while I remove my seat belt. Pretty much for a few seconds, this gives the turbo time to spool down. If a turbo timer was essential for turbo life Nissan would have incorporated it in as a factory item. If you were to use the car for track work and or live in the hills and are very heavy on the foot right up until your driveway I would leave the car running for a minute or so. Simply to let the oil cool down a little so it doesn't coke in the oil lines. So its not essential for a turbo timer. In a way its like women and and all these face wash marketing crap that gets thrown at them No drivers and side window tint Bov, bleed valve, afm changes, ecu changes, intake pipe mods that affect the bov piping are all emission no no's. You are allowed FMIC's providing it doesn't modify anything to do with the bov and its associated pipe work, you must also not cut any bodywork for the piping route. Pods are legal, some inspectors don't like the oiled types and insist they are placed in a box. Ensure every single bush is in good nick and has no free play, give it to a suspension place and get them to give it a good inspection.

ahh ok.. Sell the turbo timer and put the money towards a PFC.. I've never had a turbo timer and my turbo has now racked up 186,000km's running 1bar.

Cop shop..... it depends how far away from the CBD you live. From memory it was something like outside of the cbd by 40km's and you get to take the car to the cop shop for general defects. I think with emission related defects you have to take the car to regency. So guess where my car is reg'd. All the way down south. So was the bleed valve fairly well hidden? He still found it?

Drop it back a gear and let me know if it still vibrates. My g/box has done that in 5th around 95-100km/h since day 1.

I think it comes back down to the old 'Average' power Gary.

shaolin, lol

I'm all too aware of different dyno figures. Especially the difference between corrected (shootout) and non shootout mode read outs. Next tune I will have this done on Boostworx dyno. Lets see if the shootout mode reads higher. I suspect it will. Exactly why I stated the power figures. The car also wasn't kicking you in the arse until 5000rpm. So you think my 176rwkw with basically 100% duty cycle is around the mark? I can't see my bosch pump having issues supplying fuel at that power, especially considering its only using 9psi to make that power. But.. you never know.

Definitely good for the Auto boys. Never know.. If I blow this manual I 'may' look at a tough 4speed auto with a mild stall. Should work nice with the 3ltr.

Years ago just before I obtained my license my old man restored an old SLR5000 from scratch. Everything was rebuilt, diff, gearbox, motor. The motor had a little work done to it with a nice lumpy cam that you could feel the pulses through the extractors that transfered through the floorpan and steering wheel. It was friggin awesome driving in it around the block with no doors, sitting on a milk crate. The sound and raw beasty feeling that had was awesome. It also went suprisingly well. Give it too much stick off the line and first was able to wheel spin up the 265's easily, click second the arse would swing nice and slowly side to side until you clicked third. I still remember driving down the road looking out the back window watching the arse end's rear spoiler dip against the horizon. It was sprayed canary yellow with the typical SLR5000 black bonnet and black roof. It also ran the 'typical' gold hotwires. Mum made Dad sell it. I still remember hearing them arguing, it finished with "Its not a old mans car its a young boys car" Damn it.

250rwkw is dangerous on the R33 320/370cc items. I've known rb20 injectors to be pushed to 243rwkw on 17psi of boost. The car went on to run 12.8, I can't remember the TS. It was Clint32's old 'street' R32 before he attacked it.

How did the test the oil pressure? I wonder if they simply looked at the stock dash guage. How much were you going to purchase the car for?

Or worse.. A Corolla with a huge arsed Milo-Tin. hehe On the topic of Milo-Tins... What is it with VT+ V8's being fitted up with stupid looking Milo-Tins in Adelaide?

sky30, Its kind of on topic, with the feed from the alt/battery. May I ask a couple of questions, to help save me some time and research? Some may seem obvious. 1. Where did you run the wire? Along the main loom in to the car and then splits from the main loom and ran under the carpet to the boot? 2. You took the relays feed from the pumps wire wires? 3. Where did you get 30amp wire and fuse? I've looked at the local auto shops they don't carry 30amp wire and fuse assemblies. 4. Did you use 2 wires (negative & positive) or just the one?

That will be the ign map, nothing to do with engine vibrations as they are a different frequency.

I asked my engine builder this question as I run forged pistons etc. He told me to start it, put the seat belt on etc, this is around 30secs of idling max, then drive it but drive it soft with low rev's but not too low as to make it labour. In other words, change up at around 2500-3000rpm with a light foot. Do this until the oil pressure is down, in other words oil temp is up. Ignore the water temp as oil is not up to operating temp for approx 6-7minutes after water temp reaches operating temp. The idea is you want as little time as possible running a rich mixture as running rich washes the oil from the bores in turn glazing them up causing the car to have poor ring seal, it also gives the forged pistons less time to slap as it only takes 7minutes of light driving to get everything up to temp. Simply idling alone will not bring piston temps up enough within 5-10minutes so they don't slap. It also wastes fuel by letting the car idle. From memory its around half a litre for every 30minutes or was it 1hr idling, one of them. So in short. I idle the car for around 20-30secs then drive lightly. Waiting for the car to warm up is a waste of time, fuel and engine life.

Wait another 5-10 years.. Lets see peoples thoughts then. No doubt many will 'convert'. To be honest. I am a bogan at heart. I love the v8 rumble. At this point in time I'm enjoying a bit of sports and decent fuel economy while I study at Uni. I sold my VS v8 that was basically bran new with mods such as ecu, cam, rebuilt gearbox, diff, whiteline suspension, bilstein shocks etc. The sound of it was awesome with its 3.5" and a fist sized centre muffler & rear resonator, it went well for a 5ltr. Fuel economy was poor, everything has a trade off and it did lay some mean smokey no brake take off burnouts. Probably what broke the rear IRS crossmember in half.

Whooohoooo.. Last exam today. :headbang: