Cubes

The overlay definitely doesn't do your car justice Bl4ck32. It seriously pulls so much damn harder than mine. It hooks up damn well with that 2 way. The difference in spool between your T3/4 bush vs my stock rb20det BB turbo is nothing. Which honestly suprises me, yours has quite a larger turbine wheel and compressor wheel, not to mention its bush not ball bearing. Its given me motivation to get off my arse and earn some money to put towards a new turbo. I'll definitely be happy with a fairly cheap VG30DET highflow.

Bachelor of IT. I'm in my 3rd year so yer exams suck. Especially J2EE - Internet Computing. I'm a fiddler. I only 'try' to improve upon the current cheap $100 tune I had. I found that when changing gear or simply flattening it the map trace was dipping to load point 20 then once accelerating settling on load point 19 through the rev range. This load 20 point was running ever so slightly too much timing as it was causing highish knock readings. I reduced load point 20 by one degree and left load point 18-19 the way it was and knock went from 35 down to 17. So.. I dialed in another degree in to load points 18-19 and found knock didn't rise. That 1 degree makes it feel more lively, but only makes throttle control that little bit harder in second. Basically through the mid range its now running 17degree's instead of its previous 16 and in some parts 15. These new tyres don't hook up though. I bought some Firenza ST-03's. If I don't ease my foot in to it second axle tramps majorly. My subframe bushes are screwed, first things first during the holidays, I'm going to fit some pineapples, hopefully it will stop the subframe from slopping about and help with traction a little. If I still get too much movement, over the X-mas holidays I'm going to drop the subframe and fit a set of new subframe bushes from Noltec ($190 from Unique Autosports). Maybe, a big MAYBE fit a S13 3.9:1 diff as to help the rb30 get that little more speed from each gear.

Studying for my last few exams. Went for a little spin before, tweaked the ign. timing table in the pfc.

Bl4ck32 & my dyno run 63km/h is approx 2000rpm 132km/h is approx 5000rpm. I suspect mine wheel spun a little from 70-80km/h, hence the dip. The torque curve doesn't represent the ignition table. I would like to check out your ign. table Bl4ck32. Mine is running bugger all, 17degree's at around 2000-2800rpm then it drops to 16degree's until 4000rpm where it drops to 15degree's. Its very interestering how your T3/4 bush bearing turbo with its large turbine wheel spools almost identical to the small RB20DET turbo.

I think the 80mm pod adaptor is causing issues as it blocks off the outer 10mm or so of the afm. Possibly causing a high speed stream of air through the center of the 90mm afm, this is why it runs so rich. The rb20det pfc loadpoints maxing out is an interestering issue. Mine with the stock turbo at wot uses load point 19 across the rev range. Changing my AFM fromt he rb20 to Z32 item changed nothing with regards to load points used but it did change the afm voltage. In the PFC manual it does state that the H/C is only good for mild mods, bigger mods including cams etc it suggests you need the software to modify the actual base map?! Strange but true. I wonder if this is only an issue with the rb20det pfc. Also at WOT Darrens car is running (AFR) initially in to the 10's then comes up to the 11's by peak power, it cannot be leaned out any more. So there are a few little rwkw's available. Darren did you check if boost it tailing off at high rpm? It probably is when you consider my stock rb20det turbo tails off to 9psi by peak power and makes 24rwkw less (176rwkw).

The AVCR's single solanoid works perfectly fine. The Blitz SBC-iD doesn't have bells and whistles. :hippy: AVCR I suppose. The Blitz EBC only has 4 channels, auto and manual mode with a scamble, multi pressure readouts i.e PSI etc. Thats not bells and whistles. What sets the Blitz and AVCR apart from the HKS is the auto modes. For a smallish turbo setup the auto mode nets you an extra 10-20rwkw. A larger turbo that has no problems supplying the required air at high rpm's doesn't drop boost, in turn the std fairly basic fixed duty cycle setup of the HKS works fine.

HKS EVC are crap. Go a Blitz SBC-iD or AVCR.

The RB's definitely do like to swallow air.

Stick with the rb20 box until it blows. Keep good oil in it, change nicely and the strength of it will suprise you.

If anything RB's tend to have boost tailing off at higher rpm's.

That depends on the type of cars himan has tuned, if he has a few daily driven Rb25's making 250-300rwkw with standard donks I would consider him. If not.. well I'll pay the extra $40 an hour.

skypy12, Forget the ECU, the ecu has no influence over the timing light read out. The idea is you match the two, 15degree's at the crank and 15degree's base inside the ecu. Also you stated, The harmonic balancer is set to 0degree's or TDC, and both cam gears are set to TDC or centerline 0degree's. But as said, cheap timing lights do read incorrectly on some RB's. On mine it does, the only one i've seen work is some fandangled digital one that you point and it displays the ignition timing.

RPM used to charge $125 3 years ago. Shaun (Boostworxs) charges $110 an hour. Tilbrooks, I have no idea, they wanted $600 for a tune, they do have the PFC software so I would expect they will get the tune done quickly BUT they are able to fiddle with a few more options that the h/c doesn't have access to.

Interestering.. Still return stock light load/cruise economy?

I'm supposed to get my wisdom teeth out.. I've been putting it off. lol. I don't like needles..:hippy: I'm a gas me up until my legs and feet feel tingly, rub some numbing gel on my gum ONLY THEN shove the needle in. lol

Rob82, Have you had any experience tuning the stock ecu's with RX7 550cc high imp. injectors and the rb20? I remember Martin had issues with trying to obtain a decent idle. RX7 injectors being squirters they don't atomize fuel too well, that combined with the 2ltr 6cyl it doesn't work too well.

Martin Donnan remaps the ecu's over here with his own software. So its nothing new really.

Thats exactly what Ben did.. Maybe removing the gears for the transfer case is fairly simply.

Its not subframe movement? My bushes have recently got a little sloppy, I noticed the subframe pulling forward on the dyno. Plant the foot and I find it steers the car slightly.

I'm really keen to hear back on this one. I know GTR-Ben has done this and fitted the g/box up to his Silvia and RB30DET. From what I remember you basically cut off the transfer case and weld a plate over the hole. Bobs your uncle. Does the GTR box have a longer first gear? (compared to rb20/25)

I see no reason why people charge $400. $300 is plenty. Thats almost 3hrs of dyno time. I asked for a 1hr tune and paid $100 as a result, the RB20DET base mape was up and running with the rb30det within 1hr, the tune consisted of a little bit of light load afr's, WOT afr's and ignition timing. I think a lot of workshops take their customers for a ride and charge them not for time but for a 'tune'. Ask if they charge by time or for a 'tune', then.. Simply hang around like I do. I've since asked what it would be worth for a complete tune including new injectors fitted, bigger turbo and adjustable cam gears. I was told $300 maybe $400 depending how quickly the sweet spot for the cam gears is found. For a mild rb25 with stock injectors & turbo there's no reason why a tune would take more than 1hr. In all honesty, you probably won't get better fuel economy than stock for light load cruising, that is being stock fuel economy is around 430-500km's per tank. WOT no doubt it will use less fuel, but you will be making more power so it cancels out. If your under the stock light load cruise economy now you have issues else where in the car.

Looks like one of these will fit over the RB30DET. The usual strut braces foul with the cross over pipe, hose clamps and rubber connecting hose up to the throttle body.

What ever ecu you get make sure you have some sort of knock sensor utilization. Be it via the ECU or an aftermarket item, just make sure you have some sort of knock readout. All it takes is a slightly blocked fuel filter or a bosh pump that decides its had enough and you will be hammering it around and not even know its knocking/leaning out. Pop there goes your motor. For the street where you don't need datalogging I personally like the PowerFC. It is possible to buy the software for the PowerFC that allows datalogging, if thats the case you may as well have bought a Motec/Autotronic to start off with. Can the Wolf3d have one of its inputs to give some sort of feedback from the knock sensors?

Its a series 2 RB20DET Turbo. The Rb20 turbo's do tend to be a little tougher than the R33 turbo's. I think however its due to the RB20DET swallowing less air due to its little piddly valves.

Specified Torques are the same. Its more luck of the draw with how tight the bugger is.