Cubes

160,000km's for an RB is bugger all. Consider Rev210's RB26 that is over 200,000km's and running strong. My old RB20DET that clocked 175,000km's with perfect compression, 110,000km's of those were done with me behind the wheel and 1bar of boost. For your car to do what its doing, some thing has gone wrong. I would tend to suggest its either been idled consistantly and driven like a pansy for all its life hence glazed bores, or ran super richer all its life hence glazed bores or its simply and most likely leaned out and or detonated that has broke some thing or seriously damaged something. Another consideration is valve stem seals. Does it blow smoke after idling around for a while? One very good reason to get a dyno power run every 6 months or so. Especially if its running that little bit more boost than stock.

260rwkw I really do find hard to believe.

With regards to weights. Ive found a link that lists 'realistic' weights of the Nissans. http://www.msiracing.com.au/parts/webcontent3.htm

Is that with street radials?

Generally for light load tuning you turn off the O2 sensor then tune up to around 30rwkw with a 14.7:1 AFR. Then turn back on the O2 closed loop mode, the idea is the afr's are nearly spot on so bugger all trim has to occur.

I run wiseco's with the largest recommended bore to piston clearance which is apparently for 24+psi or track use. I do get piston slap first thing in the morning, however it doesn't register as knock on the PFC controller. So I doubt piston knock is picked up by the knock sensors, possibly the hz is not correct so it ignores it? Driving around normally I get a maxiumum knock of 10. From idle to peak RPM (5000rpm lol) she generally doesn't go over 18. What I have noticed is that part throttle full boost or coming off half way through the gear peaks knock up around 30 some times 35. Obviously a couple of little places on the map are running slightly more ignition timing than it should.

The temps definitely sound reasonable then. Its probably a good thing to tune with the bonnet down. At least you get a semi-real world environment with real under bonnet temps and then you know it won't ping once you get it on the road.

Thats a stock compressor wheel.

The idea of dynamic dyno's temperature compensation is that hotter air will reduce power, cooler air will increase power. The dyno makes a compensation to try and give a constant power level regardless the air temperature. The dyno has a middle figure. Say 25degree's. If the IT is over 25 degree's the dyno will apply its calculation and show an increased power level. Anything under 25degrees and they dyno will apply its calc. and show a decreased power figure. The aim is to try and keep power levels consistant across air temp differences. This method is open to 'fiddling' as when the air temp sensor is placed in a location that doesn't indicate the true air temp the engine is ingesting. I'm not saying your figure is way off as its not. It is around the mark. After all a stock R32 with only an exhaust will make 135rwkw maybe 140rwkw if its in good nick and the fuel pump isn't supplying too much fuel killing power. Installing a new fuel pump, I went from 155rwkw down to 130rwkw on 13psi. 12psi made 152rwkw, ebc then dialed in 15psi and it made 164rwkw. The difference is your making 144rwkw with only 9psi. Maybe you have a little bit of hidden headwork or possibly a cam gear is out a tooth allowing the motor to breathe easier in the top end, hence only 9 psi!?!? I'm not really sure. Damn.. I'm spamming out this thread.. A mod of this section care to create a new thread out of my dribblings?

I've done a little searching.. It appears hyperdrives dyno's always run with an AT of around 25-28degree's and IT temps from 45 right up to 61degree's!! Its consistant.. It is wierd.

All of Hyperdrives dyno sheets appear to have a 40+ degree IT with a fairly cool 28degree AT. Maybe its the positioning of the sensor? I recently saw a friend mine have his R32 tuned at Boostworx (where I get mine done), bonnet open, pod with no shielding and big fan blowing. The sensor was placed basically directly behind the headlight in a groove of the pods filter. The AT temps were 28degree's. IT temps were pretty much always +5 degree's. I really don't know. Boostworx dyno room is seriously far from being optimal, its a small enclosure with limited exhaust suction that is located towards the back of a larger shed. Bugger all free clean air blowing around. I always leave Boostworx after a tune with my eyes stinging. Their dyno probably reads slightly higher than the norm. Which is exactly why comparative figures should be taken with a pinch of salt. Do a few mods and watch the gains then be happy. You never know.. It 'may' be running an rb25 turbo or something.

1320kg for a R33 hey.. Hrmm I wonder what a R32 weighs in at then. A friend had his R33 on the weigh bridge, 1/2 a tank of juice and it was slightly over 1400kg's.

I would avoid copper head gaskets. Pick your self up a multi-layer head gasket. Either import one from nengun or grab a cometic one. OR.. O-ring the block and use a stock headgasket.

I'm curious... How were the cam gears adjusted? Did the changes increase or decrease cam overlap?

Bugger that then.. I'll stick with my stock air box + 100mm cai. I was getting 25degree AT temps & 25degree IT temps with the sensor placed up the CAI poking in to the airbox a little. Boostworx dyno room is located at the back of a Tin Shed, he does have a big arsed noisy fan though.

Thats not the way it works with my 1992 R32 GTST. If I don't have the ignition on and heater selected I cannot get any water to flow through the core. It simply blows back at me and makes me wet. VL Commodores are also the same as are EF Ford Falcons. This is why many people say to turn the heater on when bleeding the head. This was the experience I had with mine. Besides the point... There is no method of controlling water flow to the core apart from within the firewall some where as the hoses are simply that.. hoses that rununder the manifold etc.. I know this also as I have removed the rb20det and slotted in the rb30det, at the same time replacing all the heater hoses. A good $400 later. Hit yours with compressed air and water and I you will get even more crap out. My heater is so hot that you cannot hold your hand in front of the vents for long as it burns. Also.. For others... When doing this with the R32's be sure to bleed the heater hoses via the T-piece attached on the top heater hose that runs along the firewall, WITH the ignition and heater on. The T piece is directly behind the inlet cam cover. Failing to do so will cause overheating. Don't forget to also bleed the plenum. I use an old radiator cap that I've drilled a hole in that fits perfectly a pump bottle lid that has had the white popper bit removed. I dabbed some silicone around the edge and forced it in. Nice and tight. Cut the bottom off a bottle and screw it in and attached it to the radaitor. Keep the water level above the plenum and bleeding is very easy.

Is the tail shaft a single piece or does it still use the centre bearing?

The best method apart from a new or reco'd core is to rig up a mains water hose and air compressor nossle that Y's into one pipe. Reverse flush and pulse the compressed air. Water will fly out violently when the compressed air is pulsed. This method has worked for me where rad flushes haven't. Be sure to turn the ign. on and heater control on so the flap opens, otherwise you will not get flow through the core.

Dyno readings from shop to shop vary. Its as simple as that. Or you could have a chipped ecu? BUT.. Something looks a-miss. Is that an Intake temp of 45degree's I can see? Possibly the intake temp sensor was position incorrectly causing an inflated reading.

Unfortunately the DD Dyno's can only display one at a time. So for all three you will require 3 print outs.

Retard the timing and your EGT goes up. Not good for turbo that has a ceramic exh. wheel.

I always ask for all 3. AFR, Torque and Boost.

Probably nearing the end of their life. Its amazing what a new set of tyres will do.. In some cases new tyres makes your car feel slower as it won't spin. lol.

Red Drifter, The RB20DET will always struggle to make the power you want on less than 18psi. The valves and ports are too small, drop a set of lumpy sticks in to it and you will then have half a chance, stock.. I seriously do not think it can be done. also... HKS only offer two size exhaust a/r's. .68 and .87 Possibly their a/r's are 'slightly' larger than the garrett units due to a power porting or similiar method of increasing flow/efficiency. 3037ProS http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=1671 2835ProS http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=1670

Or... ring land..