Cubes

Don't be weak.. Bump it up and use your foot to control wheel spin.

Did it strip during acceleration or a quick grab of the gear?

Jumps to 260rwkw pretty hard. Wheeeeel spin

I 'think' your dieing issue when cold may be injector related. Mine has always done the same thing, I have overcome it a little by richening up the cold start values in the PFC. The stock ecu also used to do the same thing.

Its the .87.

Prices vary a LOT. I was after a std R32 airbox. One place wanted $250. Another $60. lol

$900 for a turbo install.. wow Nozilla, could you pm me the workshops name?

From what I understand jap fuel is 100. 2 points doesn't make a big difference. The majority of people do not have issues with missfiring. It is definitely not the fuel, rather the coils. My PowerFC's base map ran aggressive ign. timing at WOT. It only made the thing ping its head off, no miss-fires. However, there is such a thing has a lean missfire. Run the car lean, it will detonate then get to the point where there isn't enough fuel and will begin to missfire.

Looks out the window and watches a kangaroo bounce down the road.

SK is talking about getting the air pass the heads in to the pots easier. Stick bigger cams in there and you reduce the restriction, allowing greater airflow with less boost. Upgrading AFM's to larger items will increase the turbo's efficiency. If with the N1's it makes a definite difference I'm not sure.

With regards to exhausts on turbo's.. Bigger is ALWAYS better. A 3.5" with 2 mufflers will flow better and be quieter than your current system. It will also most probably sound a little sweeter. Lack of mufflers tend to make the car sound a little raw.

From what I remember he's always had the 2835ProS dropping boost even with the stock sticks. He slapped the big sticks in still drops boost the same but obviously more air is flowing. I remember he said the wastegate is being blown open as if you hold it shut manually it will make the boost and power repectively. Maybe its a dump pipe design issue with his, I can't remember what dump he was running.

The R32 also runs a slightly shorter diff. A friend had his TypeM R33 T on a weigh bridge. From memory it was slightly over the 1400kg mark without driver and half a tank of fuel. I can't remember the exact figure. There's many weight figures floating around. I remember seeing the R32 GTST TypeM 92 model weigh 1320kg. The non turbo cheapo's were 1280kg's. The earlier 89 models weighed a little less and the R33 GTST TypeM weighed 1380kg.

Sly33, Grepin has had problems trying to push more than ~16psi in the top end through his 2835ProS as it tails off.

I'd pull the air reg apart. The spring has probably flicked off causing it to constantly pass air that raises the idle. There is a DIY guide somewhere with pics.

Timing belt? Sounds like you are talking about the harmonic balancer bolt?

T it from the std. map sensor that gives the stock boost guage its reading.

'Generally' depending on the setup if the system hasn't been bled properly the clutch will crunch between gears and it will not disengage properly. What did the gearbox come out of? Series 1 or Series 2 R33? Reason being is the Series 1 are the conventional Push type clutch where as the Series 2 are a pull type. With the push type it is IMPOSSIBLE for the clutch to slip due to a poorly bled system. Series 2, I am unsure exactly how it operates. I do however highly doubt your clutch slip issue is caused by air in the system. The clutch is probably stuffed. AND OR you have a gearbox leak causing the clutch to burn and slip.

I like how it flares out using a smooth cone type shape where the wastegate pipe joins in.

Every motor is different with regards to boost. Keep pumping the boost in until she makes no more power. One change I would make. Step up to a full 3.5" exhaust inc. 3.5" cat. Run 2 mufflers, one center and one at the end to keep its noise respectable but awesome sounding. If your short of cash go a mild steel job, they last plenty long. I've seen one last more than 4years which by then.. You will have most probably sold the car.

Very nice looking dump. Who made it sly33?

Did you run the inline filter provided with the 'kit'?

RB30 mains are different from rb25 items. I ran King bi-metal race bearings in mine. Its done 16,000km's and still running strong. http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/kingind/MB7008AM.htm Their Download section has lists for interchangeability. i.e Clevite, acl etc.. http://www.king-bearings.com/indexl.html

You can get a cheap RB30E freshened up for $1300-$1800 depending on if you want it balanced etc. This includes gaskets. The bottom ends go for around $100-$200 for a decent condition previously running motor. I picked mine up for $150 running without the head as it was sold seperately. A friend of mine picked up his RB30 bottom end for $100 with a blown head. The rb26 head.. Good luck getting one for a decent price with manifolds and all the gear you need. An Rb25 non-vct head with manifolds and everything you need goes for around $750-$1100. I picked mine up for $750 as did the friend of mine. Its not as simple as just porting as the head needs to be stripped and reassembled. If you are going to do this expect to spend at least $800 on it. You will need to spend another $275 on a VRS kit that includes a headgasket and all top end gaskets. Replace the valve springs with either RB25DET items or RB26DETT items. The RB25DE head and plenum won't allow the bonnet to close, the RB26 & plenum will. I had my motor lowered around 13mm. If it were lowered only another couple of mm the strut brace will fit. It comes very close to the throttle body's inlet pipe clamps, this is where it fouls. Resale with an RB30DET is likely to be less than a modified standard motor. UNLESS it has been registered.

Angry... What turbo are you running? I've found the stock RB20DET turbo has issues holding more than 12.5-13psi. A nice free flowing 3.5" does help quite a bit. The Rb20DET turbo on the rb30det has issues holding more than 9psi. So its definitely a turbo issue.