Cubes

Its not an issue with the octane ratings of aussie petrol.

Cam timing will loose 90rwkw easily. My RB30DET with the stock RB20DET turbo with 9psi made 176rwkw. On the same dyno and a RB30DET that was built at the same time as mine only made 125rwkw with 14psi and a t3/4 spec RB20DET turbo highflow. Looking at his cas sensor, 15degree's has the cas sensor almost in its fully retarded postion. So the cam timing IS way out. It has yet to be fixed but will be soon, I'm keen to see the results. I would expect 220rwkw maybe 240rwkw if we are lucky.

Munna, The R32 with its 4.363:1 diff ratio sits on 2900rpm at 100km/h.

There was one bloke I know of. He simply grabbed a multimeter and checked out what was what with the std item. Then wired it up to the Z32 using the pinouts I supplied. Its quite simple really.

A bloke over at SDU did it and said the R32 Auto x-member bolts up to the rb25 box fine.

For a good cheap tune head down to Boostworx. Should only cost a hundred or two.

I used the std VL waterpump. Constant high rev's (track work) over 6000rpm and I would seriously look at a N1 pump.

It is possible to stretch out AFM signal so to speak, you alter the % value in the afm section.. Its a little bodgy as you reduce your resolution but it works. As a general rule.. When the stock AFM max's out (~220rwkw or so) you should really start looking at bigger injectors. Increased fuel pressure to nudge 240-250rwkw is a worry, many RB25's have popped their ring lands doing so. Just because the AFR's are fine on the dyno when stretching injectors it doesn't mean 1 week later you will have one crap its self and decide run lean.

I put mine on the dyno for 1hr. Got the Rb30 running with the Powerfc nice. Only cost $100. Some people charge like nothing else.

The Repco RB30 pump has provision for the RB25 S2 boltup. With regards to cavitation.. I wouldn't worry. If you are reving to 8000rpm or anywhere over 6000-6500rpm you will be getting caviation with the stock pump anyway. For track work where high rpm 6000-6500rpm+ is used definitely look at the rb26 N1 water pump. A prime example is Roy's engine temp differences with those few more rev's. I've seen my RB20 pump next to the rb30 pump. No differences, same design, same fin angle etc.

You factory oil pressure guage doesn't read consistant.. lol Mine hasn't since 80,000km's.

Benster, whats the compression height of the RB25DE vs the RB30E pistons? You may have to fiddle with the headgasket + and or shave the block - to get a nice quench setup. The only way you will get rid of the 'flat' feeling is a nice high comp RB30DET with a LARGE set of cams. For N/A minimum I would look at a nice 272duration, machine the head to accept the higher lift. Doing all this you may as well go the rb26 head. It Depends what your definition of flat is. I consider a stock boost level R32 or R33, modified VS 5ltr and even stock LS1 to feel rather flat.

400kays to a tank is roughly 12.5L/100km's. Far from being bad on fuel. Similiar to that of the every day Ford Falcon. Thats providing a fill is around 50litres. As soon as mine shows the red light its always 50Litres to fill plus or minus a litre or two. I always use BP fuel, I find it gets me a little more out of a tank and its also more consistant with knock levels. I've found Mobil 8000 to be not consistent with its quality, when it is good its better then BP though. Bran spankin new the R32 RB20DET is supposed to return 10.5L/100km's the R33 RB25DET is supposed to return 10L/100km's. Obviously the cars are far from being bran new and the figure is derived from mix of both city and open road driving. I think. It probably comes down to possibly the injectors in the 33's getting clagged a little easier. Keep the fuel system and car in good nick and it will return good fuel economy. Always change fuel filters every 6months, ensure cas, o2 sensors and tuning are all up to scratch.

My R32 RB25DE (non VVT) head cc'd up at 62.2cc's. It is smaller than some I've seen. 64cc's right up to 66cc's. From my measurements the R32 head also has slightly larger valves on the inlet vs the r33 rb25. I wrote it down in the pdf the actual measurements. I am unable to remember off the top of my head.

Vuster, When I had the RB20DET I average 10.6L/100km's for City Driving. I drive fairly sedately with the 'occasional' little bit of stick through the mid range in second. Basically just bring it up on to 1bar of boost and ride the mid range as you do with turbo's. The RB30DET on the RB20's base ignition map (not efficient due to cams that run more overlap and the 3ltrs higher piston speed) I averaged 11.6L/100km's. After a little tweaking of the Ign. map I've finally got it down to 10.8L/100km's. Once the bigger turbo goes on hopefully it will free up the exhaust side a little and improve fuel economy slightly again. However, there is a hell of a lot of RB25's returning very poor fuel economy, around the region of 250-350km's per tank. Not so many RB20DET's suffer bad fuel economy though, I do find this strange considering the R32 RB20DET's are 13yrs+ old now. I would seriously cry and sell the car if I pumped $55 in to it and sucked a 1/4 before I got back home. lol Open road country driving I doubt fuel economy would improve much, nothing like the V8's anyhow. I had a VS 5ltr 5speed with a few mods prior to the R32, open road driving picked up just over 200km's per tank. That was with quite a bit of a lead foot over taking those trucks and slower sub 100km/h drivers. 640km's total on the open road (10.1L/100km's) vs the 410km's per tank around the city (15.8L/100km's).

Take the bearings in to CBC, then press the old bearings out and press the new bearings in.

hehe good to see Troy.

lol.. I've considered converting the R32 in to an auto, the 3ltr would work quite well with it. Manuals 'can' be quicker off the mark compared to a fairly stock auto. But they are often not consistent. However top end.. The manuals always for the same power will pull just that bit harder up top.

hahah.. Isn't that a relief.

Do search ppls, its been covered many many times. Its very very common for the stock r33 ecu to generate power dips through the power range. 'Generally' this occurs over 10-11psi'. But really whats 1psi.. It could be your boost guage thats out.

There's a hell of a lot of RB25's out there only getting 300-350km's per tank. That would make the LS1/LS2's better on fuel. The majority of R33 GTST's are slow until you throw a PowerFC at it. When I say slow I mean an R32 RB20DET with the same mods; fmic, boost and exhaust IS quicker. Unless its some freak arsed 95' model ecu that doesn't have the horrible power dips. One I know of some time ago pulled 200rwkw with only the mods listed above. It ran a lowish 13 sec 1/4.

hahah are you serious?? What drag off from 0-20km/h??

More importantly... How does it feel to drive? Does it feel like its a little down on power compared to the reading? Something I guess one would only know from experience.

Get your self a battery isolator. I would also be taking it very easy on the diff and gearbox, allowing it to lube up properly again.

Luke, Which dyno was it on? No wonder you think its slow. Have you done the usual fuel filter change? I wouldn't doubt the fuel pump, the cars are 12yrs+ now.