Cubes

What you are experiencing isn't any sort of cut at all. A cut is a cut.. nothing, not an invisible wall. You are experiencing the usual R33 ECU rich and dip safety 'feature'. The R32 ecu on the other hand doesn't have the rich and dip safety feature. Instead it allows you to keep pushing it until BANG.. no ignition you literally loose all power, it feels like you have slammed on the brakes and the rear wheels compression lock. Its not fun and makes you seriously thing you have broke something. The R32 ecu experiences this with the RB20DET at around 5500rpm @ 17psi with the stock turbo.

I managed to track one down through a friend of a friend for $280 bran spankin new. He has some affiliation with Bosch, I would have expected him to make a few $$ on top of what he bought it so it just goes to show the markup on the item from the middle men. Its on the car now and working purrfectly.

I've got a dodgy injector plug that tends to play up every so often. The wiring loom injetor plug has split, water gets in and causes a bad connection. Every now and again it gets hard to start and runs on 5cyls until its warm. Playing with the injector will instantly get it running on 6 again. Looking at the plug the contacts get corroded as all buggery. Clean it up and its all good again for another 6months. It also tends to play up more often if I park the car on grass overnight.

Don't go black.. Black looks good up close but from a distance it looks like your running stock steel black commodore rims.

Chances are its got to do with the missing ech. manifold bolts. What exhaust are you running?

By the looks of the wear on the gearknob its possibly done close to 200,000km's. Mines done 185,000km's and its only 'just' started to polish. The rust you mention is quite common. I only had a tinny little bit of rust at the bottom of the door sill. Where the rear guard sill mates up with the center sill. As you open the door you look down and can see it, I've had mine fixed when the car was sprayed. Also with the amount of kays it has you WILL need to replace all the little tinny hard to get at heater hoses and fuel hoses under and on top of the inlet manifold etc.. Hopefully its already been done. The gearbox will no doubt need a front and rear seal. Easy and cheap to do when you get the clutch done. Don't let the kays put you off the car as parts are cheap and easy to get.

The Rb26 runs solid lifters, or more correctly called followers.

where did my post go?!? ahh well here it goes again. I had trouble removing my g/box drain plug with a 1meter extension bar. The car was over the pit and it had all of my weight. The bar was bending. It eventually came loose and sent me flying backwards and skinned my knuckles on the cement. If the car was only jacked up I would not have been able to remove it. I was the culprit who did the sucker up prior also. I only used the standard length of the ratchet to do it up. The R32's don't require a socket, simply use the half inch drive as the plug is female.

Depends if you can find a belt to suit.

There is also a few little differences between the R32 and R33 ecu pinouts.

The stock guage doesn't read temperature linear. Now I have the PFC I can see the guage reads around half from as low as 75degree's to as high as 102degree's. Once its over 102degree's it creeps up slightly then once it hits 105degree's it very very quickly starts heading towards the H. The heater hose bleed point is just behind the inlet's rocker cover. Its a bit of a pain in the arse to get to especially when you are bleeding it with the engine hot (as I do). I've attached a small fuel hose, bolt in the end with a couple of hose clamps. Much easier to bleed. I have also cut up a radiator cap and inserted the lid of a pump bottle that has had its white bit removed. Its a tight fit and also has silicon around it to prevent leakage. All I do is screw the pump bottle in that has had its end cut off and fill the water level up above the plenum and heater hose bleed point. Keep the pump bottle water level higher than the bleed points at all times and its very easy and quick to ensure a 100% bleed. To completely remove the coolant from the system you really have to remove the bolt that's located under the turbo's water feed/return what ever it is. Roughly 1/4 up at the back of passengers side of the block. Check out an R31 or VL's manual, the blocks are basically identical.

The R32's have two bleed points. One on the plenum and one that is T'd off the top heater hose on the firewall. I found when I dropped ALL of the coolant I wasn't able to bleed it enough via the plenum, the heater hose bleed point did the trick. I've got many radiators up and running again by using Jax's reverse fluch method. But what I also do is hook up the compressor to the overflow nipple under the radaitor cap. I then pulse the air through the radiator as the water is flowing through the core. The compressed air blasting through the core does the trick nicely. One VL radiator I did had massive scales of rust fly out, they were that large that at first I thought it was bark chip. Faily that also check out the clutch fan. Ensure its not leaking where the shaft joins the clutch assembly. Also once warm and stationary with 2000rpm it should cycle in and out every minute or so. It should be very noisy first thing in the morning.

Blue32, what oil filter are you using? Its not a coopers is it? Must say, very nice R32.

Chrissso, had a read back through the posts. There are already pics posted.

I ended up paying my engine builder $200 to bolt the head on, locate and drill the tensioner, fit the cam belt etc. I figured for $200 it wasn't worth the hassle to do it my self.

It is irrespective IF the exhaust flows really well. What happens once a cat blocks? Stuff all boost and really slow boost build.

To find the true wastegate actuators preset drop the exhaust and see what boost you make.

Thats correct, will its volume be different due to the bang? Possibly less dense so that would say more exhaust flow cfm vs inlet?

It was an RB30DET running the stock RB20DET turbo, the turbo had its wastegate wired all the way open to prevent boost being made, even though it was wired open it still managed to make boost over 4000rpm, which is where power started to dip and carry on badly. With the correct cas timing of 15degree's & the wastegate hooked up the dyno run looked like a roller coaster all the way from idle. The rb30det with the rb20det turbo makes all of its boost on the dyno by 1700rpm IF the motor is loaded up from 1100rpm. Discussion is good. From what I experienced with my RB20DET ecu was that it did indeed pull timing and dip up to 4500rpm. Over 4500rpm it didn't appear to pull timing as I could see it was detonating yet the ecu wasn't pulling timing. The dyno run I attached was the final cleanest dyno run, from memory it was actually dipping at 3500rpm. It was only 1 dip unlike the other runs that dipped from basically idle right up until ~4500rpm prior to pulling cas timing back to 5degree's.

I'm unsure how exhaust cfm relates to power, if it were the same as the inlet then 750cfm is around 570hp worth of air. How as was the 750cfm tested? As soon as backpressure appeared?

I'm welding up my own mild steel job that runs a 3.5" dump/front pipe in to a 3.5" cat, from the cat runs a 3.5" pipe in to a 3.5" Magnaflow muffler that splits the flow in to 2 x 2.5" pipes. Then from the intermediate muffler 2 x 2.5" pipes will run to the back of the car in to a 2 x 2.5" inlet and outlet magnaflow muffler. 2 x 2.5" nice little exhaust tips and it will be quieter than a single 3.5" flow slightly better and won't look like a damn Milotin. Magnaflow also make a 4" in that splits in to 2 x 3" out. That would flow damn well. Generally Aus exhausts from my experience are crap. I had a $1660 D&T Performance exhaust made up that was absolutely sh*t house. The dump pipe has massive slags splattered inside not to mention how the pipe wasn't stretched properly to mate up with the lower part of the flange, resulting in a 15mm V shape exhaust flow protruding lump smack in front of the compressor wheel. Its been around 3years, now all the welds are rusting, but its s/steel?!??! a s s h o l e s

If I were to do it again, I wouldn't even bother with a 3". 3.5" is the way to go.

Larger injectors have trouble atomizing the fuel well with small duty cycles. The larger injectors *nismo and I also thought hks* 'generally' have multiple sprays. For example they may be a twin spray. That was my understanding, I could be wrong.

CAS Ignition timing was 5degree's. 133rwkw The stock rb20det turbo's wastegate was wired all the way open. Boost begins around 4000rpm the consult stated 28degree's ignition timing, the dip occured and the usual slight puff of smoke (detonation), looking down at the consult you can see the ignition timing drop by 10degree's and fuel richen up. Connecting the wastegate so it made boost early had massive flat spots everywhere. Point being the stock ecu definitely does pull timing at mid/higher rpm. I've heard of this occuring often. Possibly reinforcing that the ecu does indeed have influence of the ign. timing at the higher rpms. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+sensor+5000rpm

It very well could be the cams are not working well on the freeway. With such large lobes it would require a bit of playing to improve fuel economy. No doubt you will also loose a little top end to in order to improve bottom end torque, VE and fuel economy. Everything has its trade off's. It may be worth dropping 20kw at the top end to pick up decent fuel economy. 250km's per tank is unbelievable. What injectors are you running?