Cubes

Get that patent happeneing. Edit: Bummer, looks like you can't get patents if you have already sold the product. http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1097642.htm

Sorry.. I was meaning that ~170kw could very well be 190kw on a Dynamic Dyno. EDIT: I find it interestering how Racepace ran slightly richer afr's as torque hits then slightly richer once again once peak power is made. I've seen a few cars now that have been tuned by RacePace. One being an RB30DET. They sure do know what they are doing.

There's better value systems out on the market. $1700 for a cat back mild steel. lol Why not run a twin 2.5" or even better 3" with a rear and intermediate canon muffler?

I'm not so sure it only pulls out timing from the low rpm high load parts of the map. With the stock r32 ecu it was pulling timing out (10degree's) from as high as 4500rpm. I am 99% sure the knock sensor stops pulling timing out over 5000rpm as that is where all the timing was thrown back in and it would ping once again. This was monitored via consult.

Jaff, Its not a Dynamic Dyno in shoot out mode.

I'm going to paint mine black.

Mine has always got good fuel consumption, even when it had the stock ecu and running in to the 10's at full throttle. However I did notice at WOT around 3000-3500rpm it would hover around the low 13's. I was told it was normal as the Nissans run a little leaner in the mid to help fuel consumption. On the dyno afr's were spot on 14.7:1 and would hang in there until 2psi of boost was being made. That was with the stock ecu and the rb20det. It has never really backfired or popped. Only if I were to ever so slightly have my foot on the throttle. A few things I would be looking at. Fuel injectors, AFR's, O2, ECU's Water Temp sensor (one for the dash, one for the ecu), cam timing, compression.

Pitty I couldn't make it. I have clutch issues. This 1100kg pressure plate has spat a slave cylinder and now it has spat my 2yr old master cylinder. Ahh well next time.

There is a point to a dyno tune even with a stock car. Tweak the ign. timing and check out the fuel afr's.

Bigger less restrictive piping will only increase the spool time.

My stock r32 (exhaust and all) ran 9psi. The exhaust bumped it up to 10.9psi, some manage 12psi with an exhaust, it depends on how well flowing the exhaust is. My dump pipe is crap.

Go either the cheaper RB30 pump or the GTR N1 pump that has the anti-cavitation plate that increases flow and prevents cavitation at high rpm. Thats the only difference between the pumps. From memory the R33 series 2 pumps are slightly different being one bolt hole is slightly aligned different. If thats the case then grab a repco Rb30e pump as they have provision for this.

Gives it that bathurst look.

Some times following the sheep prevent dissapointments and what if's.

To use the boost controller it is best to remove the standard boost control solanoid from the loop. After all, you are simply replacing the boost control device. Winding in = more boost Winding out = less.

Lack of boost is sometimes caused by a blocked/stuffed cat convertor, either that or you have an intercooler/pipe leak.

How you will gain will depend on how well the stock ecu has been remaped. You most probably won't gain anything up top, maybe a little as it will be able to tuned a little closer to the edge as the PFC has a knock sensor readout. Mid range is possibly where you will pick up some power, but once again it depends on how well it was tuned with the stock ecu. I would probably stick with what you have now if you are not planning on upgrading the turbo at a later date.

Are you serious ghostdog?

With the R32 for example the only way you can turn down boost below stock is to use the actuator from either an Rb25det or Vg30det turbo as those turbo's run ~5-7psi. Depending on the turbo/actuator setup you could drill the holes to loosen up the wastegate, this will lower your boost levels. Use your foot to control the boost. Bleed valves bleed boost away from the actuator essentially tricking the actuator in seeing 10psi instead of the real 15psi your engine is seeing. So the actuator opens at what it thinks is 10psi but really is 15psi as some of the boost is being bleeding off. Hope that makes sense.

It definitely gets boost on quicker, I noticed a nice difference on gear changes.

That would indicate you previously had a vacuum leak, idle and light throttle should sit under zero, moderate throttle should be zero plus.

How about the VG30DET Cima's, Leopards?

I have no idea really but have you completely bypassed the solanoid setup?

Just spoke to my old man, he said it sounds like the brake fluid is squeezing past the cup or something. I know what he is describing. Very possible. It has done a lot of changes, especially as the car is a daily driver for Uni obviously changing gears a lot + its ran a 800kg clutch for 60,000km's or so. I'll rip the pedal box and master cyl out at once I think, weld up the box and buy another master cyl.

I replaced the slave cylinder yesterday and the old slave was indeed leaking. Unfortunately when I hold my foot on the clutch it still slowly bleeds off causing the clutch to engage. I've tried re-bleeding the master cyl, little box and the slave cyl. The master cylinder is roughly 2 years old and done around 60,000km's with an 800kg clutch. There doesn't appear to be any air in the system, there also appears to be no fluid loss. When the clutch bleeds off upon letting go of the clutch the pedal doesn't come all the way up but half roughly, i then need to pull it up with my foot. Its fine as long as I don't sit with my foot on the clutch. I had a look at the pedal box as good as I could without pulling it out and can't see any breakages. Does it sound like a pedal box. Damn.