Cubes

SR910, I have the ability for air temp temp compensation, thermo fan control etc with the PFC Nitrous, rotational idle and the others don't bother me. I would really like dataloging though. For 1k for the PFC & H/C + a $100 tune to get me on my way is a damn good bargain.

Idle and its showing higher than 15degree's. Is your TPS adjusted correctly?

Yer good point, the Rb25 being 9:1 comp would be closer to detonation, high intake temps probably tip it over the edge quicker. barely any difference with 13psi... lol That stock exhaust must kill the turbo's efficiency, going from 10.9psi (stock boost with 3" exhaust) to 12.5psi I noticed a definite difference. On stock 10.9psi feels N/A.

The slave is an IBS the master was a PBR. I assume Nissan use PBR for genuine as my brake master is a PBR item, unless its been replaced prior to purchase. The R33 slave he showed me looked like it had a larger piston, the whole thing was ever so slightly larger. I've had the PBR Master on for 2 years and travelled 65,000km's with a non std. clutch. Previously a 800kg clutch, now a 1000kg clutch. 1000kg clutch is what killed the old slave cylinder, 6months ago I noticed it there was a real slight amount of fluid in the slaves boot. It will be fine, I was told however to use standard NON-Synthetic brake fluid as the synth. stuff tends not to lubricate as well. Shortening its life.

I was running 12psi of boost and made 152rwkw with the stock R32 IC. The FMIC with the same 12psi only bumped power up to 155rwkw. There seems to be bugger all gain by fitting a FMIC to a R32 at low boost levels. Well to mine at least.

R33 or R32 slave?

The temp guage reads center from roughly 75degree's right up to 102degree's. If its going over half then its over 102degree's and dangerously close to boiling temp. IF the FMIC has caused the car to start running hotter on the stock guage then it means you previously had a problem with either the clutch fan being stuffed or the radiator is blocked. I tend to lean towards the clutch fan being buggered. With my FMIC fitted I find bugger all air gets through the radiator as cruising on 60km/h or even 100km/h I can hear the clutch fan cycle in and out. EL Ford Falcon twin thermo fans draw a hell of a lot of air (more than a clutch fan would under 2000rpm) so thats my next step as in peak hour traffic I find the temps creep up over 90degree's. Once I get moving the temps drop really quick so its a simple fact of the clutch fan not spinning quick enough on idle. They are $190 bran spankin new and are the perfect size for the R32's radiator.

Just a little heads up for those who need to replace their clutch master and slave cylinder. All Clutch and Brake Services The R32/R33 Master cylinder from memory was around $63.50 Slave cylinder for the R32 is around $40. No idea on the R33's he said there is 2 types, the r32's being the more expensive. Damn good prices if you ask me, cheaper than my old VS Commodore. Check em' out. http://allclutchandbrake.com.au/

JSL, If I were to do it again I would have the FMIC ever so slightly wider and thinner to allow more air to get in through the opening to the radiator. End tank design I think is fairly critical with a setup that loops back, you can't really have a bottom in/out end tank design. Maybe flip the FMIC upside down??

Ooosh, Your soft.. I was running 12psi on the stock IC for ages. Once the FMIC was bolted on it was boosted straight to 15psi, I got it home and bumped it up to 16psi where it stayed for 100,000km's.. Not saying yours wouldn't go pop, Luck of the draw I think.

Oosh, Did you find you lost a little bit of response/increased spool time a little?

Isn't that nice. :inlove:

I can see this bleeder is going to make me bludge part of Uni tomorrow.

Dluded, Explain what you mean by didn't fit as the R32's front support bar doesn't have a back lip, only the front lip. There is nothing but the a/c fan and the radiator stopping you running a fmic as thick as you like. Unless your trying to mount it differently? Draw a pic or something of where the fmic fouls as I've had no trouble fitting the 100mm thick bar and plate in there. BUT thats being said my IC is mounted down 10mm with a welded alloy lug on the top of the ic.

I've found a pic of the front of mine, unfortunately no underneath pics but I will do soon. Its a small thick bar/plate FMIC that apparently flows 580hp worth of air with a 1.5psi pressure drop.

Its to prevent the boost being held between the actuator and the bleeder. When this happens even though the car isn't making boost there is still boost between the bleeder (ball and spring) and the actuator, this holds the actuator open and makes a very very sluggly boost up between gears.

Dluded, As in the thickness? (See my attached pic a few posts up) Or am I looking at the wrong part??? Or is it because of the size (width) that causes issues with the end tanks fouling the section of the support bar that bolts on to the chassis?

lol.. Thats nasty as hell. lol As I said earlier my end tanks in/out are in the middle of the IC's core, this makes it so much easier to get a 2 x 90degree bends lined up nicely so the lower pipe fits nicely behind the ic.

My pipe work doesn't actually travel under the cooler it travels behind it, it doesn't block airflow as the bottom of the IC doesn't receive any air due to the bumpers lower lip. At WOT the air is traveling through the pipework so fast that I would think virtually zero heat will transfer to the air. At idle cruising around in traffic I do think it will make a slight difference but at those load levels once again it probably wouldn't be noticable.

It took 7 days for delivery including the 1-2days it took for my online banking direct deposit to clear. I've attached a few pics of it. Initial inspection of the spring and ball was its rather decent quality. The spring is very much so decent quality and has a heavy duty feel. I'll hook it up within the next day or so and let you all know how well it works. In parts.. You can see the small hole that stops the pressure being trapped between the ball/spring and the actuator. Really for $22 its worth it PROVIDING it controls boost. lol I'll find out.

I have a support bar, it can be seen above the IC core and below the front bumper. Its that little bit of metal inbetween. I don't have air going in to the top of the cooler. Very much like every other GTR, they too don't have air going to the very top of the cooler. By the looks of you end tank design (inlet/outlet at the bottom) less air will be traveling through the ic at the top of the cooler anyhow so I really doubt you would see any real world results by having the top of the fmic blocked from direct airflow. I run a bar/plate IC, Even after a really hard push through the hills I've never had the oulet be warm, its always cold to touch, the inlet is usually hot to touch that fades off to cold by 1/4-1/2 of the way down the core, so its working quite well. The back and under piping route is good IF you have the end tanks in/out located in the center of the core, or have the FMIC upside down so the end tanks are located towards the top instead of the bottom, otherwise the 180degree turn will be very sharp.

Dluded, I'm not sure I understand what you mean with regards to the thickness not fitting?!? i.e my FMIC, no cutting mods to the support bar. My FMIC uses the stock IC piping route. The bar & plate FMIC end tanks have the inlet and outlet positioned in the center of the core. This leaves plenty of room for the inlet pipe (Drivers side) to enter the FMIC after a 180degree bend. The outlet that is on the passengers side simply goes up the stock IC piping hole and plumbs in to the cross over pipe. Resulting in a dead stock looking engine bay, and no illegal cuts to the body. Unless you modify the cross over pipe there is a zero reduction in piping by doing the piping that way I have.

I noticed a little more lag or better described as less response BUT the higher gears pulled harder more consistantly. Especially when doing a first second third run.

Excellent. I'll be off to grab a couple of boots. Thanks for the part number.

You must have what they call the R31/VL Turbo clutch. Apparently the VLT & R31 clutch is the same as the R32/R33. Its listed as the same on the packaging. The normal N/A VL clutch is different (smaller) you will be unable to simply swap over the blade/fan.