Cubes

But in all honesty the tuning isn't tedious. Not quite as nice as the autolearn afr feature of the autotronic but none the less still very easy to adjust settings. Some one who knows their way around the pfc can easily get a complete tune done in 2hrs. As I said.. Johns simply been spoilt by being able to put his foot down and have the ecu adjust settings on its own. The price of an ecu to match the powerfc specs is rather expensive. i.e 6 injector sequential drivers 6 coil drivers o2 closed loop knock sensor utilization Light/moderate load ign and fuel maps already setup. The only real down side is No data logging (unless you have the pfc software that is now available) Heavy and WOT ign/fuel maps need adusting If John were to purchase the PowerFC software, Datalogit from memory I'm sure he would pick up a lot of pfc customers. At least now if you get a tune you know John is doing it, not one of the younger inexperienced boys.

There is a legal offset limit change.. Unsure what it is though.

I agree with you SR910, John has simply been spoilt by the use of laptops.

I find on the PFC with the rb30det positive manifold pressure is over load points 15. Might have to get that checked out. The slightest flick of the accelerator has load points dipping straight to 15.

Taking note of the PFC I find the O2 sensor is in closed loop under light acceleration and cruise. It reacts very quickly, if you are within a closed loop enabled load point then you will be in closed loop. The o2 sensor is disabled when you hit certian load points, nothing to do with manifold pressure/vac.

Rb26DETT is easy to get reg'd in the R32. Simply use the 32 GTR brakes and its reg'd. The Rb30DET will need to be emission tested. RB25 & 26 doesnt.

There not the same but do fit. The VL fan sits closer to the motor and is very very close to fouling the harmonic balancer. I've been running one on my R32 basically since I got the Rb30DET in. Its only temporary as I'm going to bolt up a set of new EL twin thermo's, they are $190 bran new. New the clutch assembly can be picked up for $140 odd. Simply unbolt the fan and bolt it on the new clutch and your off. I bought a second hand clutch & fan from a jap importer for $70, it only lasted a year before it began leaking and not locking correctly.

I spoke to John a while back when he was at Turbo tune. He doesn't like tuning PowerFC's via the handcontroller. He told me to get an Autotronic, For the price of the Autotronic I could have bought 2 PFC's.

No idea buddy. I'm interested to know aswell.

You have to bleed the air out the system. The R32's have two bleed points, one for the heater that is T'd off the top heater hose near the drivers side. You can bleed the plenum bolt as much as you want but it will still overheat IF you don't also bleed the heater hose.

It places extra load on suspension parts. Google is your friend. Whitelin FAQ

10:1 EDIT: Finally worked out the true cam specs for my RB25DE head from the inlet and exhaust valve open close specs on that sheet from the manual. R32 RB25DE 240dur inlet, 236 dur exhaust with 10degree's overlap The RB20DET 240dur inlet, 240dur exhaust with 5degree's overlap.

The only benifit is you may be able to tweak the ignition timing and possibly fiddle with the fuel pressure to lean it out a little.

lol no its my mistake. I said clutch when in fact it is a brake. lol

Interestering.. Slower surface speed. My concern would be a smaller surface area the greater the load on that surface area. Is that a concern?

Shop around, I found autobarn to be the more expensive out of the bunch. Here in Adelaide at least.

I would have to say THE best place to get a PowerFC tuned is Tilbrooks. They are the only mob that I know of in SA that have the PowerFC software that enables them to tune it via the laptop. The software allows you to change options that are unavailable via the handcontroller. Expect to pay around $500-$600. Second to that I would look at Boostworx. Shaun does a good job and charges bugger all. Expect to pay $200 - $300 for a complete tune. With regards to anything else to mod, cheapest to most expensive. Exhaust cam gear Better boost controller (Blitz SBC-id or AVCR) that will hold just that little bit more boost up top. Turbo's near the edge of their efficiency will tend to drop boost, the avcr and blitz SBC-id adjust the duty cycle in the higher rpms to allow boost to be held at what you set it at i.e set it to 15psi not a duty cycle percentage. Its a little bit of a gamble however I have seen around 10-15rwkw gain in the top end from a better boost controller. No experience with a gt2530 though. Tomei Poncams or 3.5" full exhaust (probably around the same price) Apart from that you have pretty much covered everything.

Great times Robbo, consistancy is whats important two.06l, 12.2-12.3 is around the mark that I know of for a stock R32 GTR running a powerfc, exhaust & boost restrictor removed.

Paul, Do a full power and Map trace run through say second gear. Take note of the load points it uses. Let me know. Edit: Just in case you don't know. On the hand controller go in to Monitor, Maptrace then press the right arrow key. This will mark every load point you use. I'm comparing the map to a stock map with comments to show you where the differences are and by how much. I'll post the map tomorrow.

Must be the different master cyl. Mine looks like the fluid is almost at the top when its filled to max. With regards to the cas postion, it looks ok. Mine leans slightly towards clockwise of center and its set to 15degree's. 15degree's is spot on for the RB DET's. 20degree's for the Rb26 from memory. Larger overlap requires a little more timing for it to idle nicely.

Calcs for the 6cyl RB. 86 bore x 85 stroke in 2962.49cc 87 bore x 85 stroke is 3031.79cc 89 bore x 85 stroke is 3172.78cc 85 bore x 87 stroke is 3032.20cc 87 bore x 87 stroke is 3103.12cc 89 bore x 87 stroke is 3247.43cc Is 69.71cc's really worth fiddling with the stock crank for?

I have a 9puk Ceramic Cushioned 1tonne clutch. 230rwkw.. the 800kg pressure plate with the 9puk will do 260rwkw easily and be a little lighter on the leg. mr_rbman has driven mine, ask him how it feels. Nice and drivable.

I put DBA rotors on the front and some protec cheapy's on the rear as I was unable to soruce DBA rear rotors for the R32 anywhere in Adelaide. From memory the front DBA rotors varied in price massively. Cheapest place to buy DBA rotors from In Adelaide are Motor Mates. Where did you source yours from Pablo?

Nismoid, I had the inlet temp sensor placed in the 100mm cai. Can't get any closer to real inlet temps than that. Paulr33.... Maybe your running a RB20DET turbo???? Just a thought.

Paul.. Your power does appear to flatten off in the top end though. What is boost at peak power? The actul power curve just doesn't look right for an RB25, not that any of the dyno's you listed do either. lol.