Cubes

Clutch fluid level looks low.

Paul, 3 years ago when I had the 32 making 164rwkw a friends R33 with a fmic, exhaust 13psi & Safc made 173rwkw, or was it 178rwkw.. Not sure it was one of the two. Remember peak power means jack, 'maybe' yours happens to dip that last few hundred rpm that doesn't get you the extra few rwkw's BUT the mid range is still there so the car performs just like any other making more power.

Knock sensor. Mine went from 28degree's to 8degree's when the knock sensor was activated. I was able to see this via a consult that was hooked up to the stock ecu. As pressure is increased fuel flow is decreased. I agree with mr 3Lit. Which is why you always check the return flow.

I would agree, its got a lot to do with the positioning of the inlet temp sensor. My R32 was making 164rwkw 3years ago on RPM's dyno, back then a R33's with a PFC & 11 made 190rwkw, threw a cam gear on it and it made 206rwkw. There was another R32 that made 174rwkw on 15psi with a microtech. Back then I don't remember any inlet temp sensors though. Has any one noticed NZ tends to have inflated figures, more so than around here?

Richer AFR's reduce the exhast gas temps. Advance the ign. timing and it reduces exhaust gas temps. Retard ign. timing and it increases exhaust gas temps. My thoughts would be a stock piston motor really wants to be kept as far away from detonation as possible. Detonation occures easier with high EGT's. I would 'think' run it richer, this will allow you to advance the ign. timing. Richer + more advanced ign. timing = a cooler EGT. This could be the reason drifto's tune this way in Japan. From memory they use low to mid 11 AFR's, depending on power level.

I went for the RB25DET pump. I decided the least possible pressure placed upon the small crank drive with the highest possible flow the better.

Its simply valve bounce. Like having a cam that never totally closes the valves. Reversion occurs, and VE suffers. If its bad enough and the exh. valves get hot enough they will overheat and drop off. You need good seat pressure in order to remove the heat from the exhaust valves.

I do have a real slight diff noise but wholey moley my gearbox is noisy. Diff's you usually hear on light load deceleration and acceleration. Gearbox's you hear in neutral, light and heavy load.

hah just tell me they are straight cut gears.. ohhhh wow..

180B, Have you thought about valve springs causing a problem? N/A Valve springs by nature have less tension, Turbo springs require more tension as they have to hold against both the pressure of the turbo and the back pressure from the turbo. Weak valve springs will cause a flat top end and detonation.

I got 176rwkw at 4400rpm with 92% duty cycle. 12.0:1 afr's, The stock AFM was getting 4.98v so very close to its limit. The Z32 AFM dropped afm voltages by almost 1v. Highest I get now is a shade .002 or something 4v. Dyno figures vary so really all you can go by is the afr's, duty cycle and AFM voltage readings. Chris32 made 190rwkw or so but the afr's were a little lean getting very close to 13:1. A dirty fuel filter would cause his to lean out and ping, it was that close to the edge. I'm thinking my Bosch 910 fuel pump that is 3years old may be getting a little long in the tooth, either that or I need to supply the fuel pump via a replay direct battery voltage. I've known a Bosch 910 to make 260rwkw and only start having issues supplying fuel after that.

I had a similiar issue. It didn't have any issues coming off the throttle when at peak power but more so if I gave second a full run then half of third and came off the throttle. If I didn't come off the throttle quick enough it would get a knock of 40 odd. I checked the load points used when coming off the throttle slower and had a fiddle. I observed that part of the map that was used when coming off the throttle had not been modified, from memory the origional pattern was that load points 15-17 ran 2 degree's more than load points 18-20. So I changed load points 15-17 to represent that. Mine came down to lack of time on the dyno, just a rough tune. I got what I asked and paid for. $100. I gave it a run and no more knock. It now never goes over 18. I find the load points I modified almost never get used apart from when coming off the throttle. Check what load points WOT uses. Mine hangs around 19 and some times dips to 20. The origional map has 18-20 use the same ignition timing, mine didn't have this and would also cause the odd highish knock reading when occasionally it used to hit it due to different air temperatures. I changed 18-20 to read the same, no more knock under that circumstance. Also, with regards to light load ignition timing. Don't be fooled in to thinking more is better. The iginition timing has to be set correctly so that peak pressure is achieved roughly 10degree's after top dead center. As the load increases the charge becomes denser, a denser charge burns quicker which is why you don't require as much ignition timing i.e 45degrees vs 30degree's. So by simply slapping 45degree's over the complete light load map as the 32 GTR map has basically done it is far from optimal. Optimal being receiving the best torque from what air and fuel is in the cylinder. All I need to understand now is how the longer stroke (hence faster piston speed) affects the ignition timing setup. Since using the RB25DET light load map I have actually picked up some economy it seems. 3/4 of a tank and i've just nudged 360km's so its looking a little better so far. Its a pitty I didn't change the map at the start of the tank, when I made the changes I had already used 1/4 of a tank and done 101km's.

Chris, On a GTST a map sensor is only worth while if you are chasing 400rwkw or more. Otherwise stick with the PFC, it has 6 injector drivers that are sequential, 6 coil drivers, 02 closed loop, and has been designed specifically for the model of car. The AFM is more accurate. The restriction is nothing, especially considering its sitting in front of a turbo. Intake mods at the AFM and or airbox make more of a difference on N/A's than it does turbo's. Grab the above specs and have a look at what sort of money you are paying for an ecu to meet the specs. Most skimp out with either the o2, injector or coil drivers. For the Skylines the PowerFC is extremely hard to beat UNLESS you have plenty of money to throw around for a Motec.

A restrictive hotside reduces VE & ignition timing. Reversion. One reason why I am only able to run only 15degree's with the stock rb20 turbo running only 9psi. Huge back pressure.

Sump plug. Much cleaner way, oil filter is messy, always drips down the side of the block. Unless you have a remote filter.

Thats what I figured.. its cheap.

I often use 3rd for roundabouts when cruising. Speed, around 20-30kays exit speed. It accelerates easily from idle. Obviously just cruising, full throttle requires around 1700rpm on board otherwise it rattles the gearbox a little. The 3ltr through the hills has removed the need for second gear. I was recently playing around behind a R32 Rb20DET through the hills, he was flat stick through second in to third, I was much more relaxed simply accelerating out of 25kay hair pins in third. Don't get me wrong it wasn't a full thrash, just a mild slow in fast out type drive. The safer way to drive. I've never been for hammering really hard in to corners on the street, its a receipt for disaster.

Red_Drifter, How is fuel economy with that base map?

Depends how much is in there. Excessive amounts eventually damage your front/rear seals. Not to mention the crank dipping in to the oil whipping it up in to a froth.

Anything over the Full mark on the dip stick. Drain a little out.

They would weight within a kg or two of each other I would imagine. After all the pistons,rods and valves are only a millimeters bigger.

I lost 10rwkw after dropping in my bosch pump. This was due to the previous pump running almost perfect afr's. The pump was on its last legs. Prevention is better than a cure.

I've just picked my self up a cheapo ball and spring type bleeder. Its not actually a bleeder, the knob adjusts the tension held on the ball. Should work well as I've had a similiar type before which worked really nice. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW

I forgot to mention.. My inlaws have a 91' VN Auto, Its now done 280,000km's, had a motor rebuilt at 230,000 and trans at 260,000. That for some reason only runs 0-100 in a mid to high 8. The inlaws other car a BMW 4banger 318is 5speed sits neck and neck with it. I do think the motor had a bit of a rough rebuild though, it doesn't sound quite right and is as rough as hell. hey.. What about the old TC 4speed Cortina's.. lol A mate of mine bought one that had a 250 2v motor in it. Apparently from factory they made 170hp (126kw). He put a 350holley, extractors and 3" straight through exhaust and managed to run a 14.9. Went pretty damn hard at the time. It used to be slightly faster than my TE 250 4speed with holley, extractors, holley and mild cam. I remember those days like they were yesterday.. lol I went through 6 4 speeds, and 2 auto's. The auto's were a little sluggy but couldn't be beaten for street long unlimited length burnouts. lol ahh the days when I didn't seem to worry about loosing my license.

Mine whines, it has since 67,000km's and has now covered another 110,000km's. The RB20DET box's are rather strong. I wouldn't worry, make sure its got oil and thats it.