Cubes

R32 RB20DET ecu's don't have the power dip problem. If you are having power issues with only 11.2psi then either you are leaning out or the spark plugs need to be gapped down.

hrmm I'm pretty sure it was, the Timmay in Adelaide, Red R31 that he has now sold? My other half just said it wasn't. I'll have to check the vid. With regards to the VN's I've found it to be like this.... VN Auto - Slower than a VS II Auto VN Manual - Faster than a VS II Manual. The VS's manual gearing sucks. I had a VL Commodore with a 2.5" & extractors. It was quite a bit quicker than a friends VN that had a 2.25" and also quicker but only slightly than a friends VS II. The VS series 2 ecotec's really got up and moved, well for what they are.

ok i'll dig up some pics. Sorry not the inner guard but the front bumper where the stock IC was. Its not a low pressure, anything but its super high pressure. This is what is causing the bad idle when cruising and dumping it in neutral. The air is drawing stuff all air, the snorkle see's high pressure so it forces air in disturbing the afm. The bad idle when doing so is pointless mentioning really as who drives around and drops it in neutral. haha When it was really windy not so long ago I felt the car shake and saw the AFM voltage jump, it was a fluke I was watching the afm voltage at the time on the pfc h/c. That being said with my little snorkle (not extending all the way to the front bar like some do) I get quite a wet airfilter. Which is not good, especially for the paper types. I don't think its too good for the afm either. Positioning the pod in the front bumper in the position of the stock IC would see much more water.

I was illustrating that the stock airbox with the stock cai doesn't pose an airflow restriction at 164rwkw. In this situation it is very relevant but only part of the equation. I now have a 100mm PVC using 2 x 45degree bends entering my stock airbox. The inner guard 45degree bend faces towards the front of the car. The other 45degree bend slips in to the lower 45degree bend and points in to the airbox. It did require a 100mm dia hole to be cut in to the inner guard. I cut away the bottom and part of the side of the airbox so the 45degree bend mated up smoothly. Looking in the engine bay it is damn difficult to see unless you really know what you are looking for. Only a really small part of the painted black pvc pipe can be see. Modify the stock snorkle to sit back in its stock position and it would hide the edge of the pvc pipe. The issue with pods sitting in a box is the uneven airflow through the element. This could very well pose a flow restriction. EDIT: I have also found having positive pressure not a good thing when idling. If I direct the bend directly in the airflow the car will not idle smooth, instead it will hunt up to 2000rpm and down to 1000rpm over and over. This is when cruising at anything over 50km/h then dropping it in neutral. Point the 100mm snorkle away from the direct airflow stream and the idle is perfect. Not that you drive around idling in neutral. lol

I was making 164rwkw on 1bar, 3" turbo back, stock ecu, stock airbox & stock filter. We did a little test to see if the POD indeed makes a difference, we dropped in a bran new K&N pod, the bonnet was open and the pod lifted so it was receiving cool air. The dyno runs were exactly the same. Not 1rwkw difference. However It did make a heap more noise, possibly leading some to belive it makes their car faster? At those power levels (basically max out power of the stock turbo) the stock airbox is fine.

Not only was it an 11.32 but at 126mph with a 1.86 60ft.

hahah

You will always need more power. 185rwkw feels good, move to 220rwkw.. feels nice for a while, then ok, then hrmm i need more.. Could call it an addiction.

Chances are it is caused by the BOV. This is one reason why the EPA have put a big black cross next to atomo bov's. If mr. police man see's you have an atmo bov you will be defected. The atmo bov's can also cause stalling due to the fuel flooding the car. It also reduces the life of your cat convertor. While atmo bovs are good for venting away the old dirty hot air, the fuel dump is not good for the bores. Good for running around a track flat stick as it cools everything down but for general driving bad. Excessive fuel in your bores can wash the oil from them and cause glazing. But in reality I don't know if it really is enough to glaze the bores. When you glaze the bores the car tends to use/burn a little oil.

R32 RB25DE motor looks exactly the same as the rb20det motor. Drop a set of forged slugs in that.

Each have their downfalls. RB25 - requires wiring mods for the vct. RB26 - requires wiring mods for the extra afm. It depends on your final power goals.

lol... Thats what happens witht he lovely rich/retard/powerdip R33 ecu. Obviously it wasn't able to handle more boost.

New stock fuel pumps can handle quite a bit of power. 10yr old ones can't though. Mine began leaning out with 150rwkw at 12psi of boost on the stock rb20det turbo.

7heavn, That was my initial thought also.. "Its not that bad I'll leave it." UNTIL... I saw the car on the dyno and watched the back wheel twist in towards the inside and towards the front of the guard. :Paranoid: I haven't priced up the Nissan bushes yet, that will be the determining factor if I go the solid alloy bushes The solid alloy bushes are here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...591#post1110591 Maxx is a good bloke. He said I can fit them up and see if I like them. Obviously helps going to Uni with him.

Bl4ck32, What part of the statement? The stock ecu or the Martin bit? Remember every one has bad hair days... But what if some one doesn't have hair??? heheh I think I know who said 'certian' tuners.

The stock rb20 turbo isn't running out of puff and the R32's don't have the same ecu retard/rich issues. So its neither of those. I am leaning strongly towards the plugs and leaning out. Especially if you are running the stock fuel pump.

Ghostdog, Blackwood Auto and Dyno charge $35.

Before you even think about getting it tuned throw it on the dyno for a diagnostic dyno run. Prices here in Adelaide vary from as low as $35 right up to around $80. So shop around. I had mine get the $35 power run, they set timing and gave it a power run. Grabbed a print out of boost & AFR's. It told me she was leaning out Leaning out makes a car feel flat, if its not leaning out then have a look to see if your knock sensor plugs have wiggled loose & throw your ecu in to diag mode to check if indeed the knock sensors have given strange readings as of late (hit the search button for an ecu diag.) It could also be your sparky's not liking the little bit extra boost and breaking down causing power to go flat.

i'm not sure how the Super Dragger would sound.. Obviously loud. My goal was to make the exhaust look fairly standard out the rear and sound as quiet as possible with no drone inside the cabin. The large intermediate muffler was the only way to go with 2 x 2.5" pipes. Apparently a single 3.5" does flow better than 2 x 2.5" pipes but it is much louder.

Stock fuel pumps are getting fairly old these days, its either that or some ones played with the ignition timing. Time for a newy.

http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=mitsi-van

I've just picked one of these suckers up. It actually works a little different to the one I had previously. This one doesn't appear to bleed any boost at all but use a variable pressure on the spring. The one I tried had a preset pressure on the spring and ball then would bleed boost in order to get the required boost.

Your definitely refining your skills. hahaha Two words.... Class Clown.

Looks like that rear wheel moves around a little. Time for solid bushes.

Use pistons your builder is 'used' to. Problems occur when you request other pistons to be used and the builder is not familiar with them. I used Wiseco's as they are a slipper. Slippers are better.