Cubes

I found running a bleeder inline even when disabled (i.e screw wound all the way in) it raised the base boost level by 1psi or so. The most I got from my 3" turbo back exhaust was 10.9psi. Stock exhaust it was 9psi.

cal? I will have to check the cal under the sensor check. I was refering to the Sensor Monitor Section. So which one is higher the raw or the processed?

My Rb30DET has a little piston slap when cold and gets maybe knock 6 or 8 on the initial start. Once idling with the slight slapping that can be heard the knock sits on 1. knock level of around 100 I can hear the ping. At 70-80 I get the tell tale sign of detonation on the dyno. Tell tale sign being the slight puff of smoke. Once warm, I give it a bit of stick, I never get over 30. Also as a word of warning. As SOON AS the petrol guage gets half way between the last 1/4 and Empty it leans out (I presume) and knocks up to 80-90 if I drop it back and WOT through 3rd. First and Second I assume don't allow the fuel to swish to the rear of the tank and cause a slight lean condition as there's no traction due to my crap tyres.

Old post revive. What I do find strange is my Rb30DET with the PFC ALWAYS dips to load point 19 at WOT on 12psi at 2000rpm. It holds load point 19 all the way through the rev range. It did this on the RB20DET afm and now also the Z32 AFM. The Z32 AFM didn't 'appear' to change the map trace at all. ?!? Strange. Has any one else had experience with the before/ after map trace with the rb20/25/z32 afm?

My point was, any decent engine builder doesn't need to ask those questions as its part of the project to do research.

I've had a similiar bleeder on my r32 previously. It used the ball and spring method. I found it raised the base boost level by 1psi. I would definitely use this style of bleeder again.

With the stock turbo it would make the car look a little like a crapper as it farted off down the road slooowly. If it really got up and boogied then its a different story.

Post the link to ebay. I might grab one my self.

SXC180, Maybe the Map sensor you are talking about is for the boost reading. Do you still have your afm's attached?

RB25 Series 1 AFM's are the same as the RB20DET afm. They both have a green sticker are a 4 wire. The Series 2 RB25 AFM is a 3 wire.

Darren, your tail shaft is light compared to the 2 piece R32 stock tail shaft. I don't like the Supra 5speed job, A mate of mine went through 2 of them in his 308 HQ that only had an exhaust, 500holley & 3.45 diff ratio.

:confused: Ferarri's, and he's asking if rod bolts should be reused lol :bs!:

Head down to nissan and order them in. They are only a few $$. Once it weeping its too late, its stuffed. It won't be far away before yours begins to leak if the car has already done 100,000km's.

CAPS BECAUSE IT IS VERY IMPORTANT. REPLACE THE IDLER AND TENSIONER BOLT/STUDS. ALSO TORQUE IT UP TO SPECS WHEN REPLACING THE TENSIONER/IDLERS. The Studs are worth stuff all. If they break you will be replacing a motor, it is common for them to break. Especially if they are done up by the old' Yep that feels tight enough'. Grab a torque wrench. Also while your there spend the little extra and grab your self a R32 GTR N1 water pump, if they are out of your budget pick up a VL Commodore Aftermarket waterpump for around $75-$80. ALWAYS replace the water pump, the bearings will be fine, generally thats not what goes on them, there is a little hole above and or below the shaft, that generally leaks due to corrosion before the bearings crap them selves.

Which bleeder are you running? I ran 15 then 16psi on my turbo for 3yrs.

Its not, apart from where it was sourced from.

Its been done, GT35R internal gate with a .82 diesel exh. housing holds 19psi well. Obviously the exhaust housing isn't optimal for GT35R but it does work and appear to work fairly well. It really comes down to the design and how big the internal gate is. For example the HKS2855ProS (recently an RB25DET made 317rwkw on Tilbrooks dyno, big cams, plenum, big exhaust etc) & the 3037ProS. The internal gates are 45mm big. Unfortunately home brand bodgy jobs is what scares people away from the internal gate.

Sounds even better, On the 3ltr it should spool real nice. Thanks buddy.

Mafia's also running a s/steel turbo to afm pipe.

Paul, Considering you have a powerfc your dyno figure is ever so slightly low. Generally the 'average' R33 with pfc, 11psi, exhaust & fmic makes around 190rwkw, add an exhaust cam gear and it pushes you up over 200rwkw. A really good flowing exhaust will also make just that little bit more power than the rest. But its only a dyno figure and only really good for your self to see the figure improvement from a dead stock car then mild to wild. I have seen a stock ECU'd 1995 R33 simply bolt on a fmic and exhaust that went on to make 200rwkw on 12psi. Freak that was, it went on to run a lowish 13 sec 1/4.

Sorry buddy.. Its not my setup, rather a friends. Its a GT35R .7comp .82 exh. hanging from the manifold.

Whats the secret to the extra 25odd rwkw?? Bigger cams? Fuel? Exh. Manifold?

Stealth, Have you considered importing a HKS GT2835ProS (270-280rwkw) or HKS 3037ProS (300-320rwkw) from japland? They are both Internal gate. hence the PRO Form memory they are around the 2.6k mark, unsure exactly the extra tax's and crap on top. I did look in to it a while back and have since forgot. I 'think' stamp duty is only 3% on turbo's then you pay the GST. or is it the GST first then the stamp duty on that.

Jazza08, Ive had a little bit of experience with the small rb20t turbo on the rb20det running up to 16psi. I found with bleeders and ebc's that run in a 'manual' mode (i.e set a duty cycle %) will drop boost over 5500rpm down to 12.5psi. The cheaper EBC's you pick up will have this issue. i.e cheap HKS & Blitz SBC ebc's. I quized my tuner at the time who was Tim Possingham the origional owner of RPM. He said to get a good ebc that learns the boost curve, pulses the actuator and adjusts the duty cycle to force it to hold the higher boost in the higher rpms. After a bit of research there was a couple of EBC's that 'learned' the boost curve and set boost automatically to the boost you wanted. Simply dial in 15psi and drive the car. At the beginning you start off with stock boost, progressively it increases boost to what you want. The few EBC's that do this 'learning' or auto boost are, Blitz SBC-iD, AVCR, Greedy Profec E01. But.. you wouldn't have the problem if you ran a decent sized turbo. I do think part of my problem was my dump pipe. The auto EBC was a bandaid. Mind you going from 12.5psi at 7000rpm to 15psi at 7000rpm only picked up 10rwkw. Pumping hot air is not too good for power.

Excellent, sounds like my turbo. Push 20psi through it and no doubt it will be over 300rwkw, providing the exhaust is flowing well Care to share how it spooled? What RPM the car felt as if it really got up and started moving?