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Cubes

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Everything posted by Cubes

  1. It will definitely be interestering. Overlaying the torque/tractive effort curves will also tell an interestering story. Are you running an RB20T actuator or is boost controlled via an EBC/Bleeder? I don't think the boost curve will react like the larger motor with a superior flowing head (rb20det vs rb30det). i.e dropping off dramatically as mine does. The power curve will look more like a round curve, making more power earlier, possibly even making the peak power slightly earlier but holding that peak power for longer. Area under the curve. Not sure really. Will be good to see. Bass. Any chance of heading down the drags to get a 1/4 time after?
  2. Yer its not hard though. Nothing a cylinder head pro couldn't sort out. I had my head built at Chris Miltons Engineering. 83448070. Brenton is the bloke to speak to.
  3. I'm keen to see the results. Its similiar to doing cams. I had the stock rb20det turbo tuned up on the RB30DET. The RB25 head thats been ported/polished, inlet valves deshrouded obviously flows more than the rb20det head. So theoretically its similiar to the rb20det with a really BIG set of cams. It made 176rwkw on 9psi. Boost could not be held from the std actuators pressure on 11psi. With the wastegate wired completely open it makes 6.5psi from 4000rpm. The RB20DET to make that sort of power (170rwkw) needs around 14psi. So 176rwkw lets say 15-16psi considering the turbo is out of puff by that power level. My guess is you will make more power on the same boost. Providing the turbo can keep up with airflow which it should as i've seen up to 220rwkw's on higher boost levels (15-16psi) with the rb25. But dyno figures are dyno figures. It will be interestering to see before/after results.
  4. Please, No more RB30DET's in South Australia.. Give Shaun @ Boostworx a buzz, he sorted my engine mounts. He may be interestered in doing a motor. 82990621 Consider grabbing an aftermarket plenum if you don't want to lower the engine. Which you really don't want to. Or sell yours and buy a Rb26DETT head and plenum.
  5. Then you can walk around with your nose smelling the air, chest and elbows out thinking to your self... 'I pulled my turbo off and replaced the exhaust studs' Seriously, it is fairly easy. IF you have a few ring spanners, normal spanners. You will need a couple of the bug suckers. I think the water feed/return is size 17? or is it 22? I can't remember. lol
  6. Have you considered giving it a go yourself? Its not that hard.
  7. EDIT: yer I noticed the glitch in the vid around that mark. Its like it skips a few frame. Maybe hiding the laag heeh nar. .I don't think its that laggy.
  8. Cubes

    Skid Pans?

    Whats it like down there? Any pics?
  9. rb20t box appears to be holding it with no problems so far. However, after a long drive it does tend to get a little noisy in fourth. Neutral has the usual input (I assume) shaft bearing noise. Apart from that there is no on and off throttle slack in the box.
  10. Cubes

    Skid Pans?

    I would have been there if I knew it was on today. I didn't read back through the previous posts. oh well.. I have no idea where the engine stands bar is. It must be around some where. I'll probably find it once i've finished the renovations.
  11. lol.. believe it or not that around that time I was running Goodyear F1's & bridgestone donuts. Supposively they are supposed to grip well. The RB20DET is a different motor to the RB25. The RB25DET making 178rwkw I drove was very linear. No snapping affect like the RB20DET. The RB20DET felt as if it was able to snap sideways out of a corner easier than the RB25DET. Recently I've been running Simex 225 50' 16's as they grip better than the bridgestone and goodyears for acceleration, the last set I got almost 40,000km's out of. Their cornering ability is less than desired (very soft sidewall), not to mention wet weather. lol This time around I think i'll try the Sumitomo SRIXON4 or a set of Toyo Tranpath SW, not too sure. I'm still googling. I want some thing that i can get decent kays out of yet have decent straight line grip. I may step back to the sloppy jallopy Simex. I'm not much of a corner thrasher anyway. Not on the streets anyhow. Simex are decent for grip for what they are. I remember Rev210 ran his 12.9 on 205 simex tyres. lol
  12. 150rwkw in mine used to have it spinning up 225's through first as soon as it came on boost when rolling slowly then planting it. Slight lag then wheel spin and a bit of axle tramp on the stock soft suspension. Quick change in to second could have it swinging the arse end around until road speed caught up to 7000rpm (100km/h approx).
  13. lol, King do make a tri-metal. I used the HP Bi-metals as that is where recommended for high performance.
  14. and then... Tri-metal bearings?!??! King bearings are bi-metal. Does this mean he went the King bearings the second time around or didn't really know what was being used? It seems like he was a little un-informed. Reason I ask is I am running King bearings, at the time of my build there was a VLT making 700hp next door, it was running the exact king bearings, wiseco forged pistons and modified crank girdle. It didn't have any issues with bearings. Previously it did have previous issues with the std nissan bearings. 700HP's first build may have been a slap together build, by the sounds of it anyway. Hence If the piston to bore clearance was overlooked what else was? Does make one wonder. King bearings requiring a slightly different clearance setup maybe it was simply setup incorrectly. I suppose it may have came down to using a product that the builder usually doesn't use. Setting up the clearance with the assumption of one product will perform like another at that clearance.
  15. That harmonic balancer may be required if running a rb30 harmonic balancer. Is it still required if one is using the RB20/25/26 Harmonic balancer that has been designed for high rev's? RIPS claim they have no issues with harmonics at the 6600rpm or 7500rpm claims floating around. RB26's also suffer the oil pump drive gear breakage. Nissan fixed the problem with their R33 GTR's and R33 Series 2 Rb25DET. It comes down to age and such high pressure on a little surface area. I think it comes down to if you are making shiet loads of power you have to stiffen up the bottom end. Be it a combination of crank girdle & sump.
  16. Cubes

    Skid Pans?

    What date?
  17. If I were to build a really high hp motor to last as long as possible. Use as little RPM as possible and attempt to get my hands on a bran spankin new block. For the power you are chasing choose a turbo and cam duration combination that will make peak power around 7000rpm. Grab the highest lift cam possible for the duration selected. Forged rods & pistons. Tidy up the head, s/steel valves, valve springs, nice inlet manifold & plenum. Tuned length exhaust manifold (to keep what reversion there is equal across cylinders) Motec M600 or M800 ECU I would then concentrate on stiffening up the block. Stiffer sump, crank girdle etc. I probably wouldn't use stock Nissan bearings either. Not for 700-800+hp. Thats my dream.
  18. I'm tired of dyno figures. they suck arse. I know my stock 32 went from 115rwkw to 125rwkw to 152rwkw to 164rwkw then down to 160rwkw then up to 176rwkw (with pfc & Rb30). The 115 (stock psi), 125(stock psi), 152(12.5psi) & 164rwkw(15psi) was the same dyno. 160rwkw(15psi) and 176rwkw(9psi) was on a different dyno I've used 3 dyno's in Adelaide, all very close together. Within 3rwkw. Temp sensor placed correctly, tyre pressure the same etc. That being said, A dyno is only usefull for comparing figures for your self or others that have used the same dyno & operator. sexy-gtst.. what were your AFR's like?
  19. Must say.. Very nice collection. It would be nice to open a new window rather than to open the link in the main frame.
  20. I must say I like the corner exit around the 50sec mark. I've done a couple of calcs. With the same VE it appears the Ford 4ltr swallows as much air at 5250rpm as the 3ltr does at 7000rpm. The XR6 turbo may be a near perfect match for the RB30DET. If it small comp cover poses a probelm with the rb30 at high rev's the .7 a/r comp cover could then be bolted on. hrmm.. I might take the plunge and grab one of these xr6 turbo's. The .5 comp cover may actually work quite well with the 3ltr considering it will make peak power on the stock cams around the 6000rpm mark. Maybe slightly more if I'm lucky.
  21. General Street driving results in less time for the turbo to spool. So 3500rpm any boost you dial in is more likely to be 4000rpm+ depending on the gear and he is running a huge 4" exhaust. The boost characteristics I think I will still settle on at least a .82. If I like it I will stick with it if not I will drop to a .62. Peak power really doesn't interest me. Which is why I went the 3ltr. A little quote from the thread. Some food for thought. I suppose... the 1.06 may be a nicer option.. 10psi at 3000rpm would still have the rb30det going fairly hard. Depends on the efficiency. Might have to check out the compressor map to see what its doing at 3000rpm, 10psi on the rb30.
  22. Oh... Would have looked scary on the stock guage.
  23. Then again.. There was Buggalugs R33 that was running the stock ecu, fmic, exhaust 11 or 12psi I forget and clocked 200rwkw on Tilbrooks Dyno. That was a bit of a freak.
  24. What temps did you see at the end of the 4 laps Ronin?
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