Cubes

True.. However I think you worry too much given your fairly mild setup. Unless that is you are throwing a GT42 or T51r and aiming for big numbers. The GT35r 1.06. E85 or race fuel with good cams (265-272dur 10.5mm lift) your looking at ~420rwkw (behind a manual) on 20-22psi or so. Your biggest problem are the cams when trying to make good power 350rwkw+ on reasonable boost levels. Regardless you should be able to max out the turbo and able to 'easily' crack MTBT due to the GT35's large hot side on both E85 and race fuel. The tune WONT be ragged edge unless you try that on PUMP. Any 'slight variation' in RON will not matter as you will be far away from the det threshold. PULP is a completely different ball game as you won't get anywhere near MTBT so any slight variance in quality will have it knocking. --- My ONLY concern with E85 is the blend variation between summer and winter.

That PDF is way out of date. Speak to Vehicle standards they too will tell you it has changed. For example the R32 GTST used to be 360mm all round. Now its 345mm front 355mm rear.

Horribly inconsistent.. If anything E85 should be quite consistent considering how it is contained at the servo unlike regular ULP and PULP. There are others running around with 500rwkw (rb30's) without problems and not popping motors. Or is that an rb25 thing?

Back in the day you your required a highflow to push over 200rwkw. These days the dyno's push 200rwkw on stock turbo's so I believe its just the dyno's reading a little happy. The dyno I run on typically 190rwkw is what a stock turbo'd r33 can achieve with the usual boost - 12psi, tune, exhaust & fmic. Throw an adj cam gear on and you can squeeze it a little over 200rwkw. As R31Nismoid says the power figures 'these days' just don't add up with the MPH.

I guess it comes down to what your goals are and how friendly you are with your workshop. For an hour on the dyno you could see if E85 is worth the 'hassle' or not especially considering the price of decent fuel in drums. :S

Suck and see.. $30 for half a tank of E85 tune grab a power reading and then push in $250-$300 for half a tank of decent race fuel tune and grab a power reading. A decent tuner should be able to grab a pretty spot on power figure within 30-60mins.

Have a good read through Rb20-Turbo-Dyno-Thread and RB20DET 260rwkw+ Thread Not sure if you will pull 350rwhp (260rwkw) on a t3/4 all that easily.

yeah will be interesting.. What boost are u running again? Usually it takes a good 15psi to crack 240rwkw on stock turbo's on Boostworks dyno. 260rwkw @ 15psi with cams. Shauns dyno used to read around 10-15rwkw lower than mainlines depending on who straps it down. I'll be there on Sat but unfortunately not running. Too busy with work and cant get down to MTQ to pick up bits to fix the car.

My GTR injectors pretty much max'd as power neared 260rwkw with 11.5:1 afr's. A little more fuel pressure (1afr point drop on idle) and I've seen 300 with them again at pretty much max duty. :S

Mine used to play up and return bad economy until I shoved in another set of injectors. Economy pretty much went from 450+km's per tank to 350ish over night. Changed o2 no difference. With another set of injectors it only stumbled ever so slightly which pushing in a little more fuel on cold start fixed. I've now upped the fuel pressure slightly and it never stumbles old cold start even if I lean it right out; just takes a few more cranks to start. There's a few threads on this issue. Check out the search button.

GT35R Probably wouldn't see much if any boost until 5000rpm.

No need to throw a Z32 at it as you can tune it fairly well with the stock afm even though its max'd out. Mine max'd out at around 180rwkw with the rb30. You can still push them with a fair amount of safety to 220rwkw. Stock turbo the std afm is fine. Only 'just' maxing out. If you want it to drive half decently make sure you have it tuned to suit. Knock sensor ecu diag.. Make sure they are connected.. As for the cas and afm. Make sure they are connected properly. If the cas is playing up try another. Any decent workshop that deals with these cars will have one laying around for testing.

Mine was a late 92. On the rb20 my stock ecu with the stock turbo was good for 16psi before it hit fuel cut at around 5000rpm. Never suffered R&R. With the stock turbo it definitely killed rev's. 4400rpm was peak power that flatlined to 4800rpm where power dropped off sharply. Due to the R32's short gearing the car was actually quicker with the rb20det and its stock turbo even though on paper it was making 10rwkw less peak. Simply because the rb30 didn't rev with the stock turbo which is no good for short gears. The car was VERY turbo dieselish to drive. Comes on strong then just rev's out as you feel torque drop off.

They definitely hit R&R with the RB30. The stock ecu is only good for limping the car around. Definitely keep it off boost. When attempting to bring mine on boost it would fuel cut at around 2500rpm if I had 5-6psi on board. Anything more than a pound of boost and it would feel R&Rish as it accelerated. With the turbo disconnected/wastegate wired open it was ok with heavy throttle. Which is how I ran mine in. Add boost and the ecu turns to shit.

Its been covered numerous times.. Stock bov or block it off FTW. I have always been with the later.

Penfold, 8k... Not if he simply freshens up the bottom end and is able to remove/install the motor him self. A basic performance freshen up is around 3k. But who only ever does a basic freshen up. ------ Waldoforce, So you are using an ATI balancer as well?

Madaz.. Its most likely Pete's ISP blocking BigPong possibly due to high rate/poor reputation of spam/virus on bigpongs side. Fairly common for bigpong as they tend to have a lot of mums and dads where the dad goes in to pron picks up a virus has no firewall or virus scanner. The computer then starts spamming crap. Multiple people do this in turn earns bigpong a bad rep. Bugger about it is bigpong are fairly slow getting on to their users and blocking them so it does them more harm than good. Likely Pete's ISP is just over sensitive at the moment. So a bit of both.

D_Stirls that is precision driving. None of this Holden precision shit we see here in AUS lol

If they are truly stuck WD40/RP7 and allan keys. They shouldn't decintigrate. Are you using imperial or metric allan keys? :S

When spraying my cam covers and cam belt covers black I found they had to be warm as well as the room temp otherwise no matter what it just wouldn't achieve that gloss.

WOOT.. Turbo territory punching 400awkw on E85. Interesting though Adriano. Did the sticker appear official or just a workshop type sticker?

bah.. keep rev's capped to 7k absolutely max 7.5k and the motor will be fine. Over rev stretch it to 8k and you'll start breaking that old motor. Run good oil and change every 5k. Make sure there's no detonation and it will be fine. 2-3k freshen up is bugger all. I'm sure the old man would shell out the $$ once he gets a taste of racing it.

Wouldn't bother.. Let them source the parts.

More boost so traction is always an issue then you wouldn't know any better. What is stupid.. Trying to adjust the actuator to line up a little better and breaking the rod. Then having to drive around NASP. Then welded the rod and now can't find the rod that screws on to the actuator and connects to the wastegate flapper.

Unsure on the gates but I have had to use dayco belts in the rb30det. They appear to be fairly good as it was still in good nick after the recent 100,000km belt/waterpump etc change i performed. $37 I can't complain. If I could I'd go Nissan. Just so much easier lining up those timing marks as the belt has marks on it so its a no brainier.